craigy Posted March 23, 2018 Posted March 23, 2018 (edited) they do love a dark picture, maybe thats to hide the dirty great gouges by the ear and back of neck "Good morning. A happy weekend to you all. We have a 1926 Modified Effigy for you today. We get more questions about this variety than any other. The key to spotting the difference is to focus on the initials BM on the kings neckline. On the ME version the BM is smaller, more to the right of the line, and has no stops, between the B and the M. Now if you can't see the BM clearly enough, to work this out, then in our opinion, the coin is not of sufficent grade to make the distinction. We reckong Good fine is about the lowest meaningful grade needed to discriminate. There are other differences, but we think these are the easiest to make the distinction. Our coin has been graded NEF and the price is £1250. For a full list of our Pennies." Edited March 23, 2018 by craigy Quote
PWA 1967 Posted March 23, 2018 Posted March 23, 2018 (edited) Whos coin is that craigy is it on some facebook thing or something else ?. IMO the initials are probably not the best indicator either. Sorry i should of looked at the thread title first They like to use the term WE untill the last sentence....Our coin has been graded NEF Edited March 23, 2018 by PWA 1967 Quote
craigy Posted March 23, 2018 Author Posted March 23, 2018 3 minutes ago, PWA 1967 said: Whos coin is that craigy is it on some facebook thing or something else ?. IMO the initials are probably not the best indicator either. Sorry i should of looked at the thread title first They like to use the term WE untill the last sentence....Our coin has been graded NEF wonder who graded it,bit dark to judge Quote
Peckris Posted March 23, 2018 Posted March 23, 2018 1 hour ago, craigy said: they do love a dark picture, maybe thats to hide the dirty great gouges by the ear and back of neck "Good morning. A happy weekend to you all. We have a 1926 Modified Effigy for you today. We get more questions about this variety than any other. The key to spotting the difference is to focus on the initials BM on the kings neckline. On the ME version the BM is smaller, more to the right of the line, and has no stops, between the B and the M. Now if you can't see the BM clearly enough, to work this out, then in our opinion, the coin is not of sufficent grade to make the distinction. We reckong Good fine is about the lowest meaningful grade needed to discriminate. There are other differences, but we think these are the easiest to make the distinction. Our coin has been graded NEF and the price is £1250. For a full list of our Pennies." £1250?? It's a small tad better than mine.. from what I can actually see. I class mine as VF and bought it from Colin Cooke for less than £50 (mind you, that was about 20 years ago!) Quote
Paddy Posted March 23, 2018 Posted March 23, 2018 What I don't get is why, if they are supposed to be a professional coin dealership, they put up such a lousy photograph - particularly on a coin they want so much money for! They didn't even bother to crop it so they could put up a higher resolution. I have only been photographing (as opposed to scanning) coins for a few months and I can turn out better images than that. ... and if MEs in average condition are really worth that much, I had better go through my box of discarded 1926s. If the grade is low I tip them in there and don't even bother checking for ME... Quote
mrbadexample Posted March 23, 2018 Posted March 23, 2018 2 hours ago, craigy said: Now if you can't see the BM clearly enough, to work this out, then in our opinion, the coin is not of sufficent grade to make the distinction. We reckong Good fine is about the lowest meaningful grade needed to discriminate. Not very bright, are they? The BM is about the last thing I look at, since it's usually difficult to make out on a photograph. I reckon the colons before and after BRITT are the easiest, and it would have to be pretty rough not to be able to make those out. Quote
Unwilling Numismatist Posted March 23, 2018 Posted March 23, 2018 4 minutes ago, Paddy said: What I don't get is why, if they are supposed to be a professional coin dealership, they put up such a lousy photograph - particularly on a coin they want so much money for! They didn't even bother to crop it so they could put up a higher resolution. I have only been photographing (as opposed to scanning) coins for a few months and I can turn out better images than that. ... and if MEs in average condition are really worth that much, I had better go through my box of discarded 1926s. If the grade is low I tip them in there and don't even bother checking for ME... I'm starting to think I should take you up on that offer of bucket-diving. 1 Quote
Peckris Posted March 23, 2018 Posted March 23, 2018 4 hours ago, mrbadexample said: Not very bright, are they? The BM is about the last thing I look at, since it's usually difficult to make out on a photograph. I reckon the colons before and after BRITT are the easiest, and it would have to be pretty rough not to be able to make those out. The colon after GRA: was the clincher for me when I was learning. Quote
mrbadexample Posted March 23, 2018 Posted March 23, 2018 57 minutes ago, Peckris said: The colon after GRA: was the clincher for me when I was learning. I look at the one after BRITT, because until you mentioned it the other day I wasn't aware of the difference in the other one. Quote
1949threepence Posted March 23, 2018 Posted March 23, 2018 Precisely the point I raised in the other recent thread about Michael & Rendell. Their photography is dreadful. As I said at the time, I can do better than that just using my tablet under a bog standard incandescent bulb. They have a huge stock of coins, yet still cannot get this basic skill under their belts. 1 Quote
1949threepence Posted March 23, 2018 Posted March 23, 2018 4 hours ago, Peckris said: The colon after GRA: was the clincher for me when I was learning. It's the most obvious clincher on an ME. Instantly visible to the naked eye. 1 Quote
mrbadexample Posted March 23, 2018 Posted March 23, 2018 (edited) 3 hours ago, 1949threepence said: Precisely the point I raised in the other recent thread about Michael & Rendell. Their photography is dreadful. As I said at the time, I can do better than that just using my tablet under a bog standard incandescent bulb. They have a huge stock of coins, yet still cannot get this basic skill under their belts. If you want me to spend on a coin, I'd like to be able to see it. I don't think I'm alone in this respect. Edited March 23, 2018 by mrbadexample 1 Quote
rpeddie Posted March 23, 2018 Posted March 23, 2018 but on the same regard, i don't want to oversee the coin, don't blast it white on photoshop Quote
UPINSMOKE Posted March 24, 2018 Posted March 24, 2018 (edited) Here is the penny in question just edited it a bit. Would you buy it now you can see the detail better. Edited March 24, 2018 by UPINSMOKE Quote
mrbadexample Posted March 24, 2018 Posted March 24, 2018 15 minutes ago, UPINSMOKE said: Would you buy it now you can see the detail better. I wouldn't have bought it before. 1 Quote
1949threepence Posted March 24, 2018 Posted March 24, 2018 8 hours ago, mrbadexample said: If you want me to spend on a coin, I'd like to be able to see it. I don't think I'm alone in this respect. Same here, Jon. Quote
Peckris Posted March 24, 2018 Posted March 24, 2018 14 hours ago, UPINSMOKE said: Here is the penny in question just edited it a bit. Would you buy it now you can see the detail better. Ye gods. It's about a quarter grade better than mine. 1 Quote
Rob Posted March 24, 2018 Posted March 24, 2018 17 minutes ago, Paulus said: NEF they think eh ... probably should read NAF. Where are the fingers, or does hidden detail form part of the assigned grade? Helmet's flat, drapery's flat, clear date and the picture is devoid of relief. I think that's a dream on. Quote
1949threepence Posted March 24, 2018 Posted March 24, 2018 1 hour ago, Paulus said: NEF they think eh ... I'd grade it at aVF. There's distinct signs of wear, although the shield lookd reasonably intact. Quote
VickySilver Posted March 25, 2018 Posted March 25, 2018 I'd second that one. I just don't think in this internet age that such coins not in premium condition can hold value - or even have much! Quote
Peckris Posted March 25, 2018 Posted March 25, 2018 I'd grade it VF at least, but not much more. The shield is complete and Britannia's upper is a notorious weak strike on that 1913-26 reverse; also, the 1926ME is a mule and the reverse is probably left-over 1922s recut. Quote
1949threepence Posted March 28, 2019 Posted March 28, 2019 Recently I noticed a couple of 1908's and a 1913 offered for sale on Rendel's site, not photographed and not with a Freeman number. I asked what Freeman types they were, and instead got photos, and this is what I got. One of them is a 1903, and the picture quality is appalling. Not only is the 1903 the wrong date, but in addition, he couldn't even be bothered to take it out of the plastic holder. Quote
Michael-Roo Posted March 28, 2019 Posted March 28, 2019 On 24 March 2018 at 5:53 PM, Rob said: probably should read NAF. Where are the fingers, or does hidden detail form part of the assigned grade? Helmet's flat, drapery's flat, clear date and the picture is devoid of relief. I think that's a dream on. Over graded, and I'm seeing a few spots of verd on the reverse too. Helmet, right arm, rim teeth below the O, etc. Quote
mrbadexample Posted March 28, 2019 Posted March 28, 2019 1 hour ago, 1949threepence said: Recently I noticed a couple of 1908's and a 1913 offered for sale on Rendel's site, not photographed and not with a Freeman number. I asked what Freeman types they were, and instead got photos, and this is what I got. One of them is a 1903, and the picture quality is appalling. Not only is the 1903 the wrong date, but in addition, he couldn't even be bothered to take it out of the plastic holder. Custom is clearly not important to them, is it? Quote
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