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Nick

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Everything posted by Nick

  1. Nick
    I don't know what it is about the OH shillings, but they do seem to tone readily.
  2. Nick
  3. Nick
    Almost. The "godless" is 28mm and the "gothic" is 30mm.
  4. Nick
    Remember that florins have changed size through the years, ranging from 28mm to 30mm.
  5. Nick
  6. Nick
    You could always try flushing the cache to make sure your browser has to download a fresh copy.
  7. Nick
    It's difficult to see how blurred that image is. What does it look like when you click the magnify button?
  8. Nick
    That trademark would never work here in the UK. Look out for the "CAC" sticker!
  9. Nick
  10. Nick
    An improvement I think, you've created more of a perception of depth, but perhaps just lost those hints of lustre. It'll be interesting to see the results with the new lamps.
  11. Nick
    I wouldn't have thought that there was even the slightest possibility that the 1918 would get a higher grade than the 1919, but there you go.
  12. Nick
    I have used axial lighting, but it is pretty difficult to get enough light on the coin whilst blocking ambient light and reflections. It worked ok with highly reflective proofs, but normal coins appeared dull and lifeless.
  13. Nick
    I bought something similar quite a while ago. The lamps are halogen and get seriously hot. IIRC the connections are not the same as GU10.
  14. Nick
    No need for central heating then if you have 500W light bulbs. A standard house light bulb these days is 60W (or a third of that for energy savers).
  15. Nick
    Close-up lenses have a tendency to make the phase detector used by the autofocus system go bananas.
  16. Nick
    Lustre is not easy to capture, as it is effectively the result of light being reflected in slightly different directions from the surface. The camera only "sees" those reflections which fit within its limited field of view. It could be that you need to take your photos in a place that has more ambient light, or you could try moving slightly further away from the coin.
  17. Nick
    Nice. I do like coins with peripheral toning. For coin photos, I use mode-A (aperture priority) with an F-number around 10 or so with a daylight bulb CFT light source. If your photo doesn't quite tally with what you see in hand, you may need to change the white balance to match your light source type (some DSLRs also have a procedure to match the white balance exactly to the light source).
  18. Nick
    It doesn't look at all convincing. Best avoided.
  19. Nick
    We're all just Comfortably Numb.
  20. Nick
    Weakness in the centre is often seen on this reverse. The top lion in the bottom right shield is usually less distinct than the other two.
  21. Nick
    Nice 3d. Those Edwardian threepences aren't easy to find with a well struck obverse.
  22. Nick
    I would say it is pretty close to EF.
  23. Nick
    That's a nice crown, especially the reverse. It looks as if it may have started out as a specimen. Either that or a very early strike.
  24. Nick
    DNW estimates are generally a bit on the low side, but they do depend on any reserve required by the vendor. I would say that DNW photographs are pretty good and that the coins are usually slightly better in hand than you would expect from the photos.
  25. Nick
    First set of pictures are much more realistic. Coin looks good and better than EF, but someone has had a go at it with something abrasive - hence the hairlines. Having said that, it's very difficult to find crowns without any hairlines.
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