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No sorry its not a Recessed Ear type . With slightly worn coins, the recessed ear type shows no sign of ware to the top of the ear [ the Slight flattening you see on your example shows that the centre is protruding and readily becomes warn Also usually the tooth above left of the colon between T:O is damaged but not always with the 1915 , but always on the 1916.

I'll go with class 9b too; the unbarred Ns (I don't think they are pothook) are disinctive. Also not my main field of interest or expertise, although I did somehow end up with 35 or so of the things and a copy of the Galata Guide. Post as many short cross (including cuts) as you like and I'll have a go though.

Not if use of the alternate letter was intentional, as I explain above it’s just part of day to day maintenance of a die. And also difficult to prove it’s not just partial die fill of the lower limb of the ‘E’ . But it’s a grey area in that some collectors enthuse about mis-strikes and die flaws, incidental dots and dashes and the like. To my mind a true variety is a deliberate planned change in the design on the die, the flan (weight, metal composition, polishing ) or a significant accidental change through the act of man. Obvious date width differences might just creep in in the later years when die to die differences were rarer. And not all variations even if rare attract a premium, desirability to collectors plays a major part along with whether published or acknowledged by an accepted expert in the field (Freeman, Gouby, Sessions et al). Jerry

Although the mintage of Maundy coins is not high, they do mostly survive in good condition as they are not circulating coins. In addition, Maundy coins are minted every year. I don't think Maundy "odds" (i.e. not in complete sets) are considered to be rare.

Was immediately drawn to the image in a museum recently and noted the mismatch with the text 😄 Mind you, they had a few coin hoards on display though! Lewes Castle, for anyone interested.

I find it interesting that we'll argue for days whether a letter is pointing at a tooth or gap or if a tide is high or low on a penny, but no one is interested in Victorian die numbers, which are as clear as day and surely worth studying and would throw up new and possibly unique dies. Some of the money paid for what seems like tiny and obscure penny varieties really astounds me. We're a strange bunch, and I include myself in that statement; I'll spend ages identifying the die pairing on a Rhuddlan cut half, or even a quarter, and could easily get interested in said penny varietes, but I have no plans to do so. Yet. I think I'll steer clear of the die numbers too TBH. Hmm, there's a lot of die number shillings on ebay... 🐰

Hopefully these give an idea 😂

Thanks very much paddy! As you can see it’s gone! Just soaked in warm water & washing up liquid, you’re a star!!

Bull doesn't include 91 in the list of die numbers for 1873, but I am told this list has now been outdated. This list of die numbers: http://www.coins-of-the-uk.co.uk/dieno.html also does not include 91. I am sure there was discussion on here a few months (years?) back and someone had a link to a more up to date list, but I haven't found it yet.

Thanks, I almost have one of each of the progression and one now without a broken tooth. Then I can forget about the recessed ear 😅 Well until better grade examples appear..

You can also see the star on the breast, where the collar meets.

I third the suggestion, Class 9b2. The cross on the obverse is the ghosting of the metal being forced into the reverse die. It was an issue that troubled mints right up until the 1930s, at least. The modified effigy of King George was to deal with a very similar issue.

It's screaming class 9b at me. 9b2 maybe. Coinery will know more though i think. Short Cross are more my area of expertise. Stu.

Me too ! I got the rarity rating wrong though..Its not R19 its Gouby R9.. I can only find information about one other known example. But there is probably more out there ! The other known example is much better condition than the coin I have purchased. The type is clear as day in the seller's images but Im going to wait until I receive the coin before sharing anything. I also only want to share my own images to avoid any reverse image searches.

The 1834 is definitely Maundy as by that time the small silvers (1 and 2 pence) were not in general circulation. The 1710 twopence was both included in Maundy sets but also in general circulation. I found the smaller silvers easy to pick up quite cheaply throughout the 17th and 18th centuries (with only a few really scarce dates).

Personally I don’t consider the ‘ONF’ Penny a true variety, it is simply a case of die fill and I don’t have one in my collection. However as you say it was described in Freeman - though not deserving of a Freeman number- many years ago and this seems to have lead to it becoming collectable. Jerry

Die letter repairs such as this are fairly commonplace in the early years, they on occasion used a suitable punch eg F, L, I to restore a filled die when the full letter was not deemed necessary. Gouby covers these with examples in his book. When clear these are interesting but not especially desirable unless an erroneous letter/number has been used - P /E, R/B, G/C etc. Jerry

Yes I know, was too late to edit once I noticed my mistake.

Welcome to the forum @Sam5. I would say the H on that one is as clear as you would expect with that level of wear.

Hi paddy thanks the reply, the photo is in colour, that’s what it looks like. The coin is actually a Victoria young head crown, not a sixpence, thanks for the advise, I’ll give it a go!

What was the book/document that contains a list of the known die numbers for each date? I know I used to own a copy of something that did, but can’t recall what.

Today another delve into the box of Hammered Coins in need of identification it weighs 1.1 grm I'm still struggling with the Edwards... Rod Blunt has a very good page that show a list of pictures of the different crowns that has lead me to thinking that its a Edward I, 2b, 1279 I also need to ask how has the Cross indent occurred on the observe side... overly bashed when minting? ...........

This is my 1915 recessed ear. Not perfect but a reasonable example. I have no idea where and when I acquired it!

In my opinion the darker coin IS a recessed ear, the lustrous coin is a typical worn die strike - very common during WW1

I found this coin to my surprise.

Your own coin Rob is not the same as Ians which is Bisect BP1898Ca and much rarer, yours is Ba. Although i agree not the easiest coin to sell Ians is probably worth about £80 if he can find someone that wants one, obviously he can asks what he wants its just finding someone that wants one and priced any higher may have it a while.

Those are estimates at best. Not sure what they're based on? Gouby estimates that the 1946 is rarer than the 26ME. And for example, although the combined mintage of 1918/19 Hs and KNs is known, the figures for H vs KN are only estimates.

100% correct on all accounts 👍

That's a fairly long die crack. I imagine the obverse die would be used for multiple years until it's too damaged. But the reverse die has the date and so needs to be replaced each year.

Very poignant and caught me out for some reason. I’m 60 next year and been reflecting a lot upon the last 40, so maybe something to do with that?

I am delighted to share with you my most recent discovery ! I still cant believe it. I search to the point I literally become so sick and tired and just as I'm about to have a break as I cant take no more....... I find something like this, then the motivation is completely replenished. £16 with postage.... I feel a bit bad if im honest, I wouldnt call the seller a dealer but looking at the inventory not sure how they missed this one. I have only included part image of the coin as I would like to let the dust settle, I dont want the UK seller to get wind of it. In time I will share the complete coin.

I have added the F90 to my website - let me know if you would like a personal attribution.

What the heck, Im just going to share it ! So pleased it's the reverse which is in better condition. I know on these rarities grade is kind of irrelevant but what is your opinion please? Thanks

I agree that halfs and quarters are often in almost perfect condition because they were easily lost soon after they entered circulation. I too look for nice examples, scarcer mints, errors, etc. and enjoy the challenge of identifying them. This is one of my favourites. Walter (Waltier error) on Northampton, square E's on obverse (round on reverse), class 1a2/1a5 mule, possibly Mass 148, although the X looks different.

Nice coin, but not particularly rare. Lovely history concerning their minting at: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eloy_Mestrelle In that condition probably £80 to £100. At least is appears to be genuine - there are fakes around. Here is mine - slightly better condition:

Probably be worth more if it was a forgery. I have never come across any W&M copper forgeries. Come to think of it I haven't seen any Wm III copper ones either (though I have got one in lead from what looks like genuine dies). There were so many made at that time (£700 tons of copper coin made 1694-1701) that there was not the shortage of the mid- to late-18th century that triggered that huge production of copper forgeries.

PCGS however.... They got back to me, well past the stated 2-3 days for response, and completely avoided my query regarding it being the wrong variety. Their response is a joke, right? Their only diligence is reflected in getting more coins in their slabs, regardless how well they identify them. Screenshot of email is too large, so I'll just copy and paste it (compression makes it illegible). Hello xxxx, Thank you for your interest in PCGS! We appreciate you letting us know that you would like to send coins to us. Please see below for our service fees and how to submit to PCGS: There are two ways to get a coin graded: you can submit it through a local PCGS authorized dealer, or you can submit it directly to PCGS. Option 1 - Submit via a PCGS Authorized Dealer Many customers submit via a dealer because the dealers can often provide insight on a coin to see if it is "worth" being graded. Dealers can appraise coins, submit them to us for you, and possibly buy them or auction them once they're graded! I always recommend talking to a few dealers before submitting your coins. Check out our PCGS Authorized Dealer List to find one in your area. Option 2 - Submit to PCGS Directly To submit to PCGS directly, you first need to purchase a membership, which you can find here. After purchasing a membership, you can submit as many coins to PCGS as you'd like for one full year! The pricing will be per coin based on each coin's Declared Value. Please view our pricing list here. We ask that you give PCGS a declared value for each item ahead of time, as we cannot start the process on your order without having these values. This value is primarily used for insurance purposes. For the declared values, we only ask that you give us a realistic value based on the condition of your coin - this is why I always recommend speaking to a few dealers first! There are many options for submitting to PCGS, and it can be a lot of information. Please review all the links I provided, and if you have any other questions, just let me know! Also, check out our PCGS FAQ here! Learn all about your coin on PCGS Coin Facts! Sincerely, Isidro G. Associate Customer Care Representative PCGS Customer Care pcgs.com Privileged and Confidential Communication. This electronic transmission, and any documents attached hereto, (a) are protected by the Electronic Communications Privacy Act (18 USC §§ 2510-2521), (b) may contain confidential and/or legally privileged information, and (c) are for the sole use of the intended recipient named above. If you have received this electronic message in error, please notify the sender and delete the electronic message. Any disclosure, copying, distribution, or use of the contents of the information received in error is strictly prohibited.