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For me it would depend on whether the brightness indicated by the one on the left is a result of polishing to within an inch of it life. I can live with faults if the coin is sufficiently rare, but it isn't. Personally, I would bin (sell) both and put the proceeds towards something better, which would be easy given the number extant. The detail visible has been covered by the previous posts.

You might know, but that 1693 shilling is the 9/0 variety, also signalled by the distinctive reverse die break. I had one of those once, it's not that rare though.

Duplicate post below.

It's always seemed the case that the 1897 high tide variety is an experiment to see how much they could enlarge this relatively new Britannia type - hence all three corners, trident, foot and shield are closer to the edge than in the standard variety. The 1895 2mm was conversely a slightly smaller version, deemed too small before slightly enlarging for the main 1mm issue of that year, which was the standard size.

1675 farthings are more often than not weakly struck on the hair and middle of Britannia. This year suffers more from that than the other years.

Arrived today. The cleaning doesn't look as harsh in hand as it does in the photos.

Definitely the one on the left. As well as @Coinery's comments, the detail on the reverse is far nicer.

The right one has obverse gouges across the neck, and a reverse edge nick, that’s the decider for me. The right hand coin may also be pitted, hard to tell from the photos.

whilst sorting coins out I tend to find that there's already a dated coin in the "keep" folder, then its a case of weighing up what is the better grade of the two..... most I have (as you know 🤔) do come with circulation damage, but I always take a closer look at duplicates and see if there is a better option to keep... the (1816 Shilling) one on the right was in the folder, the one on the left is a contender to be an up grade..... it looks better to me, so I would appreciate a second opinion... before committing to swapping them around. 👍cheers

The year shown on the coin (above the wreath being offerred by Tyche) is ΒΚΦ = 522 Seleucid Era so 210/11 CE. As Vologases IV died in 191 CE the coin is not his but instead is Sellwood's "Vologases VI". The month (found in the exergue on these tetradrachms) is off the flan so it's a Sellwood 88.5 variant. Too bad the month is off the flan.

Living proof that the education system is broken. I guess that makes Charlie's coins post-medieval, or maybe it is something to do with the date, given we are in the AH1400s. Too much detail to be hammered, but has certainly been through the mill. Unless it was one of Elon's ice-picks to blame for the obverse dent. I am not from Manchester.

Not a medieval coin I've ever seen before...

well you have to be pretty good to play the hammersmith its quite big

You've answered your own questions/observations perfectly.

That obverse is such an obvious repro

I used to keep a few, purely for amusement.

Nearly scrolled…honestly, just stick with the enquiry…I really hope you get your answer or, better still, a B over R coin 🍻

No, it’s not an R over B; unless it’s the same coin, I’ve seen this flaw mis-described before, even major auction houses are chancers at times. Jerry

I'm aware that the difference between the example images can be/is the amount of wear, if the letter B is worn down enough you would see the straight section of the of the R shown in the top right corner of the bottom loop of the B creating the straight section.

First of all I'm not asking for financial advice about whether or not to purchase a coin. Secondly I'm only asking opinions on whether or not the coin in question "could" be B over R based on the image provided. I know its a poor image, which in turn limits the ability to awnser the questions with any confidence. I'm simply looking for opinions on the question outlined above. Comments unrelated to the question I won't address. If you are not interested in this type of question please simply scroll on by. Note the image on the left is the coin in question. And the other two images show examples of B over R one without a straight edge in the top right corner of the bottom loop of the B and second example with a straight edge in the top right corner of the bottom loop of the B. Im quite sure the coin in question is not a B over R coin, however I'm interested to hear others opinions. Thank you.

I have told my son what has value and what is "I thought it was cool looking" and what is "why the fuc* did I buy that?"

I can see this as a possibility, and I did test the water with the family....little interest on any front other than "What's it worth?" or..... I could consider a Viking Burial ? 🤔 in regards to the future of my coins... nothings been set in stone ,,,,or been put in a slab 😉👍

I could see doing that but I'd rather give my son a shit ton of good silvers that can be sold here and there as needed rather than everything all at once. I'll never sell any of my collection. But my son is free to do anything he wants/needs to do.

"It is still a classic example of being reminded to grab the best you can afford because that's better than none. " couldn't agree more with this statement...its kinda the way I've been through life, I was "Collecting / Hoarding ?!?!" in a day of uncertainty with recession ..... times moved on and over everything....once I was asked Why??? rubbed worn out scrap??? its what's around and what's I can afford, yeah! some good...some bad....but good to have a something to show for my efforts...the slab thing I don't get either is it just hype or what ultra purest collectors really want?? how many of mine can be considered to be slabbed?? However, I must admit I'm considering at one point in history I will auction all the silver coins off, and buy a single gold coin with the proceeds, this will be a heirloom and to remain within the family........

Lobel or Noble? Trying to work out if it is a misprunt. Jim Noble in Oz used to send out lists too, hence the request for clarification. Good luck finding someone who keeps Coincraft's price lists. most aren't even read before the bin calls. I usually peruse them before binning, but only keep them if there is something worthy of recording. And amusing as it may seem, 1967 pennies at a fiver a pop, or whatever, is not a good reason.