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As we know as collectors, no one reference guide gives us all the varieties. I find it tricky as a collector to flick through Groom, Davies, Gouby, and the internet for unlisted varieties and listed ones (on sites like LondonCoins too), so have put together this list of shillings that you can copy and past and use as a checklist. If this helps I am more than happy to create lists for other denominations If anybody would like to give me a clear differentiators between the 1858 and 1859 shilling varieties that would be most helpful as Davies is so unhelpful! And if anybody thinks I am missing any varieties please reply and I will add them to the list 1816 1816, barless H of Honi (?) 1817 1817, high 7 1817, RRIT 1817, R/E in GEOR 1817, I/S in HONI 1818 1818, high 8 1819 1819, 9/8 1820 1820, high 2 1820, high 0 1820, barless H of HONI 1820, I/S in HONI 1821 1823 1824 1825 Shield 1825 Shield, 5/3 1825 Lion 1825 Lion, Roman 1 1826 1827 1829 1834 1835 1836 1837 1838 1839, W.W. 1829, no W.W. 1840 1841 1842 1843 1844 1844, large 44 1845 1846 1848 1848, 8/6, wide date 1848, 8/6 narrow date 1849 1850 1851 1852 1853 1854 1855 1856 1856, 7 to space 1857, 7 to bead 1857, high 57 1857, 5/5 1858, I of DEI to gap 1858, obverse 2 1858, I of DEI to bead 1858, 8/9 1859, I of DEI to gap 1859, obverse 2 1859, I of DEI to bead 1860 1861, narrow date 1861, wide date 1861, wider date 1862 1863 1864 1864, large 4, die 41 1865 1865, 5/3, die 29 1866 1867, I of VICT to bead, LL close 1867, I of VICT to bead, LL far 1867, I of VICT to space, LL close 1867, I of VICT to space, LL far 1868 1868, dot before date 1869 1870 1871 1872 1873, fat 3 1873, bottom loop of 3 open 1873, narrow 3 1864, slant-up tail 1874, t-bar tail 1875 1876 1877, no die number 1877, die number 1878, bun open 1878, bun closed 1879, cross right of bead, bun open 1879, cross right of bead, bun closed 1879, cross to space 1880, cross to bead 1880, cross to space 1881, cross to bead 1881, cross to bead, SHILLING more spaced 1881, cross to space 1882 1883 1883, A's protrude above legend 1884, cross away from beads 1884, cross touche beads 1888 1888, /7 1889, small head, Q has looped tail, 9 to bead 1889, small head, Q has looped tail, 9 to space 1889, small head, Q has almost no tail 1889, medium head, Q has looped tail 1889, large head, Q has almost no tail 1889, large head, Q has no tail 1890, cross on orb same width as cross 1890, cross on orb wider than orb 1891 1892 1893, I of VICT to space 1893, I of VICT to bead 1894, I of DEI to space, I of ING to space 1894, I of DEI to space, I of ING to bead 1894, I of DEI to bead, I of ING to space 1894, I of DEI to bead, I of ING to bead 1895, I of ING to space 1895, I of ING to bead 1896, I of ING to space 1896, I of ING to bead 1897, 9 and 7 far 1897, 9 and 7 close 1897, 9 and 7 almost touching 1898 1899 1900 1901 1902 1903, TT of BRITT aligned 1903, TT of BRITT misaligned, wide gap between R and D of ED 1903, TT of BRITT misaligned, small gap between R and D of ED 1904, TT of BRITT aligned 1904, TT of BRITT misaligned, wide gap between R and D of ED 1904, TT of BRITT misaligned, small gap between R and D of ED 1905 1906, TT of BRITT aligned 1906, TT of BRITT misaligned, wide gap between R and D of ED 1906, TT of BRITT misaligned, small gap between R and D of ED 1907 1908 1909 1910 1911, I of IVS to space 1911, I of IVS to bead, hollow neck 1911, I of IVS to bead, flat neck 1912, P of IMP to bead 1912, P of IMP to space 1913 1914 1915 1916 1917 1918 1919 1920, : after OMN to gap 1920, : after OMN to bead 1921, I of IVS to bead, : after OMN to space, I of FID left of bead (3D) 1921, I of IVS to space, I of FID left of bead (3E) 1921, I of IVS to space, I of FID right of space (4E) 1921, I of IVS to bead, : after OMN to bead, I of FID left of bead (5D) 1921, I of IVS to bead, : after OMN to bead, I of FID right of space (5E) 1922 1923 1924 1925 1926 1926 ME 1927 short tail 1927 long tail 1928 1929 1930 1931 1932 1933 1934 1935 1936 1937 E 1937 S 1938 E 1938 S 1939 E 1939 S 1940 E 1940 S 1941 E 1941 S 1942 E 1942 S 1943 E 1943 S 1944 E 1944 S 1945 E 1945 S 1946 E, I of SHILL to space 1946 E, I of SHILL to bead 1946 S 1947 E 1947 S 1948 E 1948 S 1949 E 1949 S 1950 E 1950 S 1951 E 1951 S 1953 E, I of LIZ to bead 1953 S, I of LIZ to bead 1953 E, I of LIZ to space 1953 S, I of LIZ to space 1954 E 1954 S 1955 E, thin rim 1955 E, thick rim 1955 S, I of ING to space 1955 S, I of ING to bead 1956 E, I of FID to bead 1956 E, I of FID to space 1956 S 1957 E 1957 S 1958 E 1958 S 1959 E 1959 S, ornaments near 1959 S, ornaments far 1960 E 1960 S 1961 E 1961 S 1962 E 1962 S 1963 E 1963 S 1964 E 1964 S 1965 E 1965 S 1966 E 1966 S

Along with dehydrated sea monkeys and specs which allowed you to see the bones in your hand.

I also do not know how to differentiate 1858 and 1859 Die 3A with others, even after studying samples from London Coins past auction results. For shilling list, it's a very comprehensive list, you may add 1887 Die 1A, 1B, 1C. Some other minor variances regarding date width for earlier years, for example 1842, 1856, but there may be too many to include in the list.

Useful list. My only comment is in relation to the variety descriptors. For example, with the 1921 shillings it would help enormously if you added which obverse type the pointings relate to, i.e. is it the obverse used from 1911 to 1920, or the one used from 1920 to 1926? I.e., that's your main variety difference, then within them you have micro varieties. (And this might also apply to other years where there are both main and micro varieties).

1863/1

Nice list Yaseen. Just a few more varieties that i know of as follows:- 1817 Unbarred H In Honi 1817 RFX for REX 1819 9/3 (in the royal mint) 1819 9/6 1819 9/9 1820 20/20

Sorry to come to this thread late, but I have only just had a chance to compare with my 1852 florin. The only thing that stands out to me is the line running along the bottom of the bust. I wonder if the grader thought that this was an "alteration" or "repair"? In any event, @Paulus, you have a very nice coin.

Well if they do invade, there's nothing we can do, as Ukraine isn't a member of NATO. The West, collectively, isn't going to risk a world war over them. When the iron curtain collapsed in 1989, we should have suggested a completely new order to replace both NATO and the (then) Warsaw Pact, which would have encompassed Russia as a leading player, along with the rest of us. Might have avoided all this current tension. Being ex KGB, Putin probably misses the cold war days.

It's been mounted previously. Ironically, if the ring had been left on it might just have been worth $12.50 to someone, as it then had a purpose. Now it's just a piece of highly polished scrap of use to neither collectors nor jewellery afficionados.

I'm glad this wasn't a penny of the same date.

Bought this from a collector in Russia - very interesting experience. Emails go through electronic interpretation smoothly and officially they are not allowed to export any coins (and maybe other objects) older than 50 years (or something like that) but it all worked pretty smoothly. He contacted me via my rare penny website.

Here's an even better one - the exceptionally rare 1799 over 1806 farthing - and yours for only £2 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/353869251507

Good definition and lustre gosh take my eyes out 😆 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1799-George-III-Farthing-Rare-Good-Lustre-Definition-/115239255627?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

I had both types in my collection that I sold last year. Here's a picture of both reverses (scarcer small date on right):

I don't understand this thread now it's developed. I have some rather nice Swedish and Finnish glassware. I have some nice paintings. I have some nice small sculpture pieces. I have them all because they appealed to me, and continue to do so. They also have an accruing monetary value, which is nice to know for emergencies. I do not feel the need to pay for someone's opinion of them, and put them in plastic cases.