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Agree with you 100%…and there’s nothing nicer than sitting down with a book/catalogue and a beer…scrolling around on your phone for details, whilst useful at times, is utterly soulless!

I now have the images from the original sale at London Coins in 2020. The photos are taken with the coin out of the holder, but it was being sold slabbed, so I guess these might be the original CGS images I’m looking for? The colouration of the toning is very attractive, I was hoping the original images by CGS might capture it. Will have to do it myself I think…it’s coming out of the slab anyway

Which pretty much makes the irrefutable case for a proper paper library. Worst case is the house burns down, but then, even so, most of the catalogues would be legible, if somewhat smelly. As it's the 25th anniversary of another paraphrase/quote by an earlier incoherent Republican US president than the present incumbent, 'Never misunderestimate the frequency with which the improbable happens'. Sorry Dubya. They also hold their value if stored in dry conditions, so the frequently heard complaint that £5 on a book is a waste of money is total bollocks. My bound volume of Montagu pts.1 to 3 cost £175 twenty years ago. That would go for closer to £1750 than 175 at auction. Think back to a St. James's sale a few years ago when 3 years of Seaby's WW2 bulletins bound in one sold for thousands. Can't remember the years specifically, but I bought the same date run from a well known deceased collector living in Wakefield and couldn't shift them for 12 months because I was unreasonably asking £15/year (Paid £10/yr). Unfortunately, or perhaps fortunately in the right setting - Oscar was right. People know the cost of everything and the value of nothing.

For proof coins, I believe unless it's PF70, unfortunately anything below that grade is normally trading at spot price with max +10% premium if good days. As Paddy said, auction house is the most easiest way to get rid all in 1 go, but have to take into account the commission they are going to charge. If selling it individually or dealing it personally, also have to pay attention to the insurance limit of postage, especially nowaday 1oz gold already at over 3k. For bullion coins, i think it's a good deal if dealer is offering 100% spot. If you are going to sell at forum or private market, i think you may get 1-2% above spot. But again you have to take care postage, insurance etc. Hope this helps.

If it's Gilbert on Canterbury then the full reverse legend would read either GIL/BER/TON/CAN or, if the moneyer's name was spelt Gillebert, GIL/LEB/ERT/ONC So directly to the left of the cross should be L, R (or B), N (or T) or C, although I can't honestly say I can make out anything. On the obverse, starting at the far left, I think I can see an E and the ligated NR and would agree it is a class 5 which would imply the presence of a sceptre off-coin.

I'm away for a week but poke me about this next weekend. I had a quick look before I left but couldn't see that UIN. I will check properly on my return.

As no one else has responded, I will do my best. Gold, particularly modern gold, is not my speciality. First of all, welcome to the forum. I hope you stick around once this particular query is resolved. I am not surprised the dealer company you spoke to offered only gold spot price. That is the default solution for most coin dealers and jewellery outlets as that way they are covered if the goods prove unsaleable at a premium. If you want to sell them as one lot, a dealer is the most likely option, unless you can locate a collector with deep pockets who wants all of them. You will get better value by breaking the collection up and selling pieces individually. There are two main ways of doing this: 1. The easy way is to use an auction house specialising in coin sales, who will list it as multiple lots. You will, of course, lose out to the commission, both buyers and sellers, that they will charge, but at least the market will dictate the hammer price. If you go down this route, give us some idea of where in the country you are so we can suggest a convenient auction house. 2. The most profitable way is to effectively become a dealer yourself for a while, selling through online platforms such as Facebook or Ebay, or even taking a market stall somewhere. You will get a much higher price for the items, but have the hassle and expense of the process. You will also have to handle the occasional dodgy buyer, particularly when selling online. If you go this way, you will need to do your research to know what price to ask, using published online auctions and/or Ebay as a guide. (Remember with Ebay that it is the actual sale price that counts, not the often ridiculous asking price!) I hope that helps.

Just, no.

"Where does it end" you tell me? 😂 Think it's my turn to be out on this one.

I’m so, SO, sorry to derail a serious post, here, but I actually CAN see a man with a beard this time…if you zoom in on your bottom image, you can see old copper nose in coronation robes, with your 5 as his garter star! I spotted it straight away!🫣

When I spotted that F90 1877 narrow date I totally lost it 🤣

Although I have drawn in red the bottom loop stopping at 6 o'clock, the image to left actually looks like it curls up and round.

The image I have attached shows the position and size versus an actual example. The bottom image of the actual 63 Die 5 you can see the loop of the 5 curls right up and round.

Me too, over the years. But when you spot a genuine rare variety there is usually little doubt, they shout out at you. As you have shown they are out there but everybody is looking at EBay hoping to strike lucky. I have actually done very well at coin fairs. Jerry

When comparing to other examples the number is smaller and wrong position.

This one aswell. Obviously the number is the wrong size also wrong position.

I am skeptical myself that's why i posted it up. Too many people messing about with AI now doctoring images.

Photoshopped

Hi all, Just for the record, I managed to get an independent ID of the attached from personnel working with the PAS database, where I've since recorded it. They identified it as a Henry III cut halfpenny, probably a class 5(c?), possibly minted by Gilbert in Canterbury. Date probably c1253-6 Obverse: Kings head facing, probably with sceptre in right hand. HENRICVS REX III around. Note that legend starts immediately above sceptre at about 10 o'clock. N & R in HENRICVS are also ligated (joined together). Personally, I still can't decipher anything much of the reverse legend but, if correctly identified, should be something like GILBERT ON CANT or similar. Hope of some help! Best regards, James

Hi there, I am new to this forum. Im enquiring on behalf of my step father whom has a collection of limited edition proof pure gold coins of significant value, he is now well into retirement and would like to sell these coins in order to free up some capital In order to make the most of his retirement. He had a company come to value the coins however would only offer him the spot price for the weight of the gold (around 15,000 pounds), however we believe them to be worth considerably more as they are limited edition in perfect condition and never been touched and we have all the boxes and authenticity paperwork still. The List of the coins are as follows, PCGS-graded 2016 '5-Portraits 90th Birthday' 1oz Proof Limited Edition Longest Reigning Monarch Proof Sovereign Set of 3 (2g, 4g, 8g) PCGS-graded '5-Portraits' 1oz Proof Satin Finish Limited Edition PCGS-graded 'Remembrance Poppy' 1oz Proof Gold Limited Edition PCGS graded 2006 American Buffalo $50 MS70 PCGS graded 2015 Proof Sovereign £1 'Long Reign' Special Edition PCGS-graded 2015 Kangaroo MS70 PCGS-graded 2015 Philharmonic MS69 Coronation Twin Set - Set of 2 x Proof Full Sovereigns Would anyone be able to provide me with some advise on where would be the best place to sell these coins please? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you Jake

Well you could , but you would be deluding yourself.

Many thanks, that would be brilliant…very forward thinking of you to save the images 🙂 The coin is an 1899 Sixpence. Excellent, thank you 🙏

That's a fairly long die crack. I imagine the obverse die would be used for multiple years until it's too damaged. But the reverse die has the date and so needs to be replaced each year.