Gary D Posted February 18, 2014 Posted February 18, 2014 Well, I've taken the plunge and just sent off my first coin to be slabbed. I have a spare F176 in GEF that I purchased about 5 years ago from Neil out of the Crocker collection. It was red at the time but now it's mostly chocolate and as I've upgraded I want to sell it, so as a bit of an experiment I thought I'd get it slabbed by CGS. CGS has only one graded so far at a 40 so mine should go to top pop, hopefully at a 65 or better.Once slabbed my intention is to sell it. Now raw, ebay would hardly give it a look, although slabbed may get a bit more interest. Most likely I would auction it, probably London Coin would be the best venue. Quote
Coinery Posted February 18, 2014 Posted February 18, 2014 I'm curious about the coin now being toned after 5 years? I love tone, of course, but I've always had this, maybe misplaced, idea about preserving a coins state, ideally as close to its original form as possible. Certainly, I'd attempt to maintain the state of preservation I received the coin at!It's not a criticism, there are obviously a large number of people who happily keep coins in trays, I just haven't got my head around the 'let them happily tone' zone, yet, and just wondered what the general consensus was on this, and how you feel about a red coin now darkly toned?I'm in the 'preciously' degrease them and seal them up camp, myself! The hammered can sometimes look nicer when a little more greyed, though! Quote
Accumulator Posted February 18, 2014 Posted February 18, 2014 (edited) I'd be interested to see photos of your F176 prior to grading, Gary (and also photos of the example you're keeping). I believe they're a lot rarer than Freeman suggests (Rarity 'R' in his book). For comparison, here's mine, with the typically weak beaded border, which was bought from LC in 2012 for £150: Edited February 18, 2014 by Accumulator Quote
Paulus Posted February 18, 2014 Posted February 18, 2014 I'd like to see pics too Gary please. I am particularly interested in attempting to judge the affect CGS slabbing can have on the saleability of a coin, and in what they grade at compared to the opinions of members on here Quote
davidrj Posted February 18, 2014 Posted February 18, 2014 Picked mine up on Ebay just listed a 1913still looking for a half decent F175, mine is AF pulled from circulation Quote
Sword Posted February 19, 2014 Posted February 19, 2014 Well, I've taken the plunge and just sent off my first coin to be slabbed. I have a spare F176 in GEF that I purchased about 5 years ago from Neil out of the Crocker collection. It was red at the time but now it's mostly chocolate and as I've upgraded I want to sell it, so as a bit of an experiment I thought I'd get it slabbed by CGS. CGS has only one graded so far at a 40 so mine should go to top pop, hopefully at a 65 or better.Once slabbed my intention is to sell it. Now raw, ebay would hardly give it a look, although slabbed may get a bit more interest. Most likely I would auction it, probably London Coin would be the best venue.London Coins used to offer the option of slabbing coins assigned to their auctions for £10 each. Not certain if they still give this special rate to sellers. Quote
Accumulator Posted February 19, 2014 Posted February 19, 2014 (edited) still looking for a half decent F175, mine is AF pulled from circulationSame here, David. I found an F175 amongst thousands of circulation coins but never put it in my collection or on the website, being sure an EF/UNC example would appear shortly. That was several years ago and, although I don't have time to check every 1913 listed on eBay, I've never seen a decent one since! I've come to the conclusion that they're really quite rare.David Groom lists the four types in his book but doesn't discuss relative rarities. I wonder if he has a view on this? Edited February 19, 2014 by Accumulator Quote
Gary1000 Posted February 19, 2014 Posted February 19, 2014 Well, I've taken the plunge and just sent off my first coin to be slabbed. I have a spare F176 in GEF that I purchased about 5 years ago from Neil out of the Crocker collection. It was red at the time but now it's mostly chocolate and as I've upgraded I want to sell it, so as a bit of an experiment I thought I'd get it slabbed by CGS. CGS has only one graded so far at a 40 so mine should go to top pop, hopefully at a 65 or better.Once slabbed my intention is to sell it. Now raw, ebay would hardly give it a look, although slabbed may get a bit more interest. Most likely I would auction it, probably London Coin would be the best venue.London Coins used to offer the option of slabbing coins assigned to their auctions for £10 each. Not certain if they still give this special rate to sellers.I was not aware of this.I'd like to see pics too Gary please. I am particularly interested in attempting to judge the affect CGS slabbing can have on the saleability of a coin, and in what they grade at compared to the opinions of members on hereTHe coin was originally lot 153 in the Crocker Collection auction. Although I can still see the jpg I can't seem to open it. Perhaps Neil can help us.Here is a link http://www.colincooke.com/coinpages/the_crocker_collection_of_pennies.html Quote
Gary1000 Posted February 19, 2014 Posted February 19, 2014 still looking for a half decent F175, mine is AF pulled from circulationSame here, David. I found an F175 amongst thousands of circulation coins but never put it in my collection or on the website, being sure an EF/UNC example would appear shortly. That was several years ago and, although I don't have time to check every 1913 listed on eBay, I've never seen a decent one since! I've come to the conclusion that they're really quite rare.David Groom lists the four types in his book but doesn't discuss relative rarities. I wonder if he has a view on this?Personnally I think the F175 is harder to find in any grade than the F176. I picked up a nice F175 in the summer and was thinking of getting my worn one slabbed as there are currently none on CGS. What put me off is that the slabbing would likely cost more than the coin is worth.Here's my F175 Quote
TomGoodheart Posted February 19, 2014 Posted February 19, 2014 (edited) I'd like to see pics too Gary please. I am particularly interested in attempting to judge the affect CGS slabbing can have on the saleability of a coin, and in what they grade at compared to the opinions of members on hereTHe coin was originally lot 153 in the Crocker Collection auction. Although I can still see the jpg I can't seem to open it. Perhaps Neil can help us. Here is a link http://www.colincooke.com/coinpages/the_crocker_collection_of_pennies.html From the CC site: Edited February 19, 2014 by TomGoodheart Quote
azda Posted February 19, 2014 Posted February 19, 2014 (edited) Curious question, but why sell through Londoncoins? Surely the Commission etc will leave you in negative? Or are you hoping its a £300-£500 coin?The 2nd thing is, in submitting, i'm assuming you've stated where it came from, thus giving CGS an easy £30 fee as they can then go look it up and assign the grade that was already given. I would have personally not mentioned it and wasted too see where they were with grade Edited February 19, 2014 by azda Quote
Gary1000 Posted February 19, 2014 Posted February 19, 2014 Curious question, but why sell through Londoncoins? Surely the Commission etc will leave you in negative? Or are you hoping its a £300-£500 coin?Where to sell it is up for discussion. I'm hoping it's a £200 but £20-30 on ebay definitly would be a loss. Quote
azda Posted February 19, 2014 Posted February 19, 2014 Curious question, but why sell through Londoncoins? Surely the Commission etc will leave you in negative? Or are you hoping its a £300-£500 coin?Where to sell it is up for discussion. I'm hoping it's a £200 but £20-30 on ebay definitly would be a loss.A BIN would be better or a Reserve placed on it Quote
Accumulator Posted February 19, 2014 Posted February 19, 2014 THe coin was originally lot 153 in the Crocker Collection auction. Although I can still see the jpg I can't seem to open it. Perhaps Neil can help us. Here is a link http://www.colincooke.com/coinpages/the_crocker_collection_of_pennies.html The photos work for me if I right click and choose the option to open in another window. Quote
Accumulator Posted February 19, 2014 Posted February 19, 2014 still looking for a half decent F175, mine is AF pulled from circulationSame here, David. I found an F175 amongst thousands of circulation coins but never put it in my collection or on the website, being sure an EF/UNC example would appear shortly. That was several years ago and, although I don't have time to check every 1913 listed on eBay, I've never seen a decent one since! I've come to the conclusion that they're really quite rare. David Groom lists the four types in his book but doesn't discuss relative rarities. I wonder if he has a view on this?Personnally I think the F175 is harder to find in any grade than the F176. I picked up a nice F175 in the summer and was thinking of getting my worn one slabbed as there are currently none on CGS. What put me off is that the slabbing would likely cost more than the coin is worth. Here's my F175 I'd be quite happy with that example, Gary! Quote
Gary1000 Posted February 19, 2014 Posted February 19, 2014 THe coin was originally lot 153 in the Crocker Collection auction. Although I can still see the jpg I can't seem to open it. Perhaps Neil can help us.Here is a link http://www.colincooke.com/coinpages/the_crocker_collection_of_pennies.htmlThe photos work for me if I right click and choose the option to open in another window.I worked that out in the end, my mistake was trying to double click it. Quote
Peckris Posted February 19, 2014 Posted February 19, 2014 THe coin was originally lot 153 in the Crocker Collection auction. Although I can still see the jpg I can't seem to open it. Perhaps Neil can help us.Here is a link http://www.colincooke.com/coinpages/the_crocker_collection_of_pennies.htmlThe photos work for me if I right click and choose the option to open in another window.CC's pictures used to be a lot better - you could open one image and then use a white ">" that appeared if you moved the mouse slightly, to navigate to the next coin image, and so on. I really miss that function. Neil..? Quote
Peter Posted February 19, 2014 Posted February 19, 2014 Why not experiment?Good move Gary hope it is Suffolk n good. I'm still considering buying raw,PCGS slab and onto Heritage.It seems a way to mug the punters. Quote
Gary D Posted February 19, 2014 Author Posted February 19, 2014 Why not experiment?Good move Gary hope it is Suffolk n good. I'm still considering buying raw,PCGS slab and onto Heritage.It seems a way to mug the punters.Did I read somewhere that Heritage won't take consignment under $5000. Quote
Danz Posted February 19, 2014 Posted February 19, 2014 (edited) Hi all. How do you tell the diff' varieties apart on the 1913's. I found a tread about 2+A but could do with an in depth run down. Cheers Dan. Edited February 19, 2014 by Danz Quote
azda Posted February 19, 2014 Posted February 19, 2014 Why not experiment?Good move Gary hope it is Suffolk n good. I'm still considering buying raw,PCGS slab and onto Heritage.It seems a way to mug the punters.Did I read somewhere that Heritage won't take consignment under $5000.Correct. An elitetest auction house, yet they don't bother who buys, only with what they sell because they require much Commission Quote
Gary D Posted February 19, 2014 Author Posted February 19, 2014 Hi all. How do you tell the diff' varieties apart on the 1913's. I found a tread about 2+A but could do with an in depth run down. Cheers Dan.There are two Observes and two Reverses.The are various tell-tails but Obverse 1 has the 1 of 19 aligned with a tooth. Obverse 2 has the 1 to a space between teeth.Reverse A has a wider gap between GRA and BRITT with the colon closer to the A. Reverse 2 has a narrower gap with the colon central. Quote
Peckris Posted February 19, 2014 Posted February 19, 2014 Hi all. How do you tell the diff' varieties apart on the 1913's. I found a tread about 2+A but could do with an in depth run down. Cheers Dan.The reverses are a lot easier : Reverse A has a rim so thin it's almost non-existent, while Reverse B has some extra ripples in the sea immediately above and to the right of the bottom of the shield.The obverses are trickier - the most obvious mark is the position of the lower dot between GRA:BRITT; on Obverse 2 it's equidistant, and the space is smaller while on Obverse 1 it's closer to the A, and the gap is bigger. There are more border teeth on 2, and the rim is quite high on 1 (VERY high on 1912H pennies). Quote
Peter Posted February 19, 2014 Posted February 19, 2014 Ah now I know I don't collect 1d's.I will stick to farthings. Quote
Accumulator Posted February 19, 2014 Posted February 19, 2014 (edited) Obverse 1 (on the left) & 2 (on the right). 'I' of IND to a tooth or gap. Edited February 19, 2014 by Accumulator Quote
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