Penny Acquisition of the week

[VickySilver]

IMO that verdigris has attacked well into the coin & if successful removal were somehow managed that there would be a lunar sized divot on coin service.

[Sword]

3 hours ago, VickySilver said:

IMO that verdigris has attacked well into the coin & if successful removal were somehow managed that there would be a lunar sized divot on coin service.

I think having a divot is preferable to the horrid green colour of verd. The coin already looks considerably more appealing to my eyes after the cleaning attempt with toothpick.

[JLS]

4 hours ago, VickySilver said:

IMO that verdigris has attacked well into the coin & if successful removal were somehow managed that there would be a lunar sized divot on coin service.

Yeah, I'm a bit cautious to remove any more verdigris, especially using chemical methods, because I'd rather not have a patch of pitted, unpatinated bronze, where it used to be. 

Having said that, so far, except in the centre of the verdigris rings, all the metal revealed has retained the patina so it's possible that good results could be achieved with more aggresive techniques...

[terrysoldpennies]

6 hours ago, jelida said:

Now that is a good idea, will give it a try, next time verd comes my way!

Jerry

Ive used the Copper wire pick myself,  it works really well and does not scratch the surface at all.

[Zo Arms]

On 4/14/2020 at 5:49 PM, 1949threepence said:

Ah, thanks Jerry. I'd not seen any example before this one.

So you think this was when the "dot" was disintegrating, as opposed to forming?

 

On 4/14/2020 at 7:35 PM, jelida said:

I am pretty sure this is a very late stage of the ‘dot’ die, it’s now really just a ‘blob’ where three cracks converge. I have seen earlier stages of this die flaw, the round dot I think being the start of the flaw. Any other thoughts? I know these dot pennies have been discussed before.

Jerry

I've had some thoughts on this dot puzzle for quite some time now. Rather than clog up this thread, I'll elaborate on a thread I started back in 2017 entitled:

1897 dot penny. Advice needed.

In the beginners area.

[Peckris 2]

15 minutes ago, Zo Arms said:

 

I've had some thoughts on this dot puzzle for quite some time now. Rather than clog up this thread, I'll elaborate on a thread I started back in 2017 entitled:

1897 dot penny. Advice needed.

In the beginners area.

Have you actually done that? I haven't got an 'Unread' notification.

[Zo Arms]

23 minutes ago, Peckris 2 said:

Have you actually done that? I haven't got an 'Unread' notification.

Sorry. You're right. Should have written it first.

It's there now. Ready to be blown out of the water.

[1949threepence]

17 hours ago, JLS said:

Yeah, I'm a bit cautious to remove any more verdigris, especially using chemical methods, because I'd rather not have a patch of pitted, unpatinated bronze, where it used to be. 

Having said that, so far, except in the centre of the verdigris rings, all the metal revealed has retained the patina so it's possible that good results could be achieved with more aggresive techniques...

It might be an idea to try and obtain a common cheap coin in similar condition to your F21, and experiment on that. See what results you get on that first.  

[1949threepence]

Finally managed to get a 1926ME - one of the last missing pieces of the jigsaw in my 20th century pennies (just the F169 & F192A to go)

Not the most scintillating specimen, but about EF/NEF and problem free. A bit of wear to Britannia's right arm, especially the upper arm, and the right of the breastplate.

Overall pleased.

 

[terrysoldpennies]

1 hour ago, 1949threepence said:

(just the F169 & F192A to go)

So you left the two easy ones till last.

[blakeyboy]

Nice specimen, Mike. Was it an Ebay find or an auction job?

[1949threepence]

32 minutes ago, blakeyboy said:

Nice specimen, Mike. Was it an Ebay find or an auction job?

Thanks Blake. Neither: it was a buy direct from a dealer's own website - our old friend, The Coin King, Nathan Smith.

[blakeyboy]

It's tricky one, this- the obverse can look interesting, and when you see the reverse, it's nearly always a disappointment .

You reverse is nice. makes a change...:)

If hadn't been vey lucky, my example of the 1926ME would still be basically be F trade, with no shield detail at all.

[mrbadexample]

7 hours ago, blakeyboy said:

If hadn't been vey lucky, my example of the 1926ME would still be basically be F trade

What've you got, a price guide by Parker's? 

[blakeyboy]

Sorry,  F grade!

It was very early for me, and my fingers got the worms muddled up.

[Peckris 2]

17 hours ago, 1949threepence said:

Finally managed to get a 1926ME - one of the last missing pieces of the jigsaw in my 20th century pennies (just the F169 & F192A to go)

Not the most scintillating specimen, but about EF/NEF and problem free. A bit of wear to Britannia's right arm, especially the upper arm, and the right of the breastplate.

Overall pleased.

Nice one - a useful gap to fill. I'd personally rate it NEF/GVF but nevertheless a tricky better grade to find.

[1949threepence]

50 minutes ago, Peckris 2 said:

Nice one - a useful gap to fill. I'd personally rate it NEF/GVF but nevertheless a tricky better grade to find.

Thanks.

Yeah...ish...To be fair, I wouldn't dispute GVF for the reverse, but I'm sticking with EF for the obverse. I don't think my pic brings out the  hair detail as well as it could do. Here's a larger shot:-

ETA: meant to add. I've found it surprisingly difficult to get a higher grade example (above NVF). Not (necessarily) for the want of affordability, but rather, availability. Started on the George V collection in November 2018, and it's taken 18 months to come across even this. I had imagined, perhaps naively, that a decent ME would be easier to obtain, albeit at an expensive price.       

 

 

Edited May 17, 2020 by 1949threepence

[blakeyboy]

Way better obverse strike than mine, and on the reverse, her fingers don't look flattened.

Edited May 17, 2020 by blakeyboy

[Peckris 2]

7 hours ago, 1949threepence said:

Thanks.

Yeah...ish...To be fair, I wouldn't dispute GVF for the reverse, but I'm sticking with EF for the obverse. I don't think my pic brings out the  hair detail as well as it could do. Here's a larger shot:-

ETA: meant to add. I've found it surprisingly difficult to get a higher grade example (above NVF). Not (necessarily) for the want of affordability, but rather, availability. Started on the George V collection in November 2018, and it's taken 18 months to come across even this. I had imagined, perhaps naively, that a decent ME would be easier to obtain, albeit at an expensive price.       

 

 

Yes, a better picture. At least AEF I'd say.

[VickySilver]

Love those 26MEs...Dare I say that from the photo, a quick acetone treatment might get rid of some of the superficial schmutz - almost  a bit of light PVC/finger oil, or??

[1949threepence]

1 hour ago, VickySilver said:

Love those 26MEs...Dare I say that from the photo, a quick acetone treatment might get rid of some of the superficial schmutz - almost  a bit of light PVC/finger oil, or??

I reckon I can live with the very superficial marks. But thanks for the advice anyway. 

[Peckris 2]

On 5/18/2020 at 1:49 PM, VickySilver said:

Love those 26MEs...Dare I say that from the photo, a quick acetone treatment might get rid of some of the superficial schmutz - almost  a bit of light PVC/finger oil, or??

Explain?

[VickySilver]

There is what appears on the photo to me at least a bit of haze, almost a green tinge (but not as bad as early very), almost like a light PVC which is oil based. I have sometimes seen this on copper that seemed to have hand or finger oils on them (lightly). If present, and I don't have this coin in hand, the metallic surface but NOT the natural oxidation is preserved but the oil removed with the mentioned technique.

[Iannich48]

Very pleased with this 1919kn that i just received. Not my pics, but they are spot on.

[Peckris 2]

12 hours ago, Iannich48 said:

Very pleased with this 1919kn that i just received. Not my pics, but they are spot on.

very hard to find in top grades even with worn obverse dies.