Nordle11

Doesn't it leave the strike a little less sharp because you're effectively adding a layer to the coin? I don't know I've not heard to liver of sulphur before, but just wondering.

I know someone who uses a heat gun which will dull the coin, as always if you're going to do that then practice on a valueless coin first. I've not got any first hand experience of that but I've seen the results and it's definitely an improvement. That coin you've posted isn't too bad already though.

Yeah, have a good day ChKy!

I was going to say that I didn't think there was one known but then thought I made that up haha.

Yes, I've just seen this addition to the site, very well described and laid out. The close up pictures are great, too.

The reverse also has a double stamped N in Penny and the top right serif on the Y is missing as well.

Keep us updated!

Nice first post, Terry. Weclome!

Yeah Rob's definitely your man for this one, maybe you'd do better scheduling a meeting

I speak regarding pennies mainly, but Gouby published his book (The British Bronze Penny from 1860 to 1970) back in 1986 which did contain a lot of varieties anyway, but more and more come to light and seem to pick up more popularity when someone publishes another book with a mention to it. He did another study which looked mainly at bronze between 1860 to 1869 where he would have added previously unrecorded varieties and then an even more comprehensive version entitled "The British Bronze Penny (Victoria 1860 to 1901) Specialised edition" which many other varieties and minor attributes where mentioned. Then you have Michael Freeman's book which followed the same sort of path with more up to date versions being released, I think the last being undertaken by Spink but they only updated the prices (I think). Then the even more granular book by David Groom but this concerns 20th Century pieces, however it goes into some great detail about varieties and minor changes to designs that even the former 2 missed. You also have places like the "unconfirmed varieties" threads on this forum, someone recently had their work recognised in their area of collecting as a previously unrecorded variety and is awaiting publishing. To answer your first question, I think that it's more of a thing now because as people near completion of their collection they want to be able to create more boxes to tick and to carry on the collecting. Varieties give you the chance to do that, and as numismatics gains more popularity and more coins are being hoarded, people are starting to see more and more differences in design and in turn, open up more varieties for the collectors.

Here in Spain it's anything over about €20 it seems and their process is abysmal by any standards. Anything worth having sent here that I actually want to end up seeing, I get it sent to the UK first and then have it shipped here, it's a pain.

Don't hold me to it because this isn't my area of collecting, but that looks an awful lot like pewter..

Sly dog, Gary

For me I think that browsing this forum and ebay fairly regularly imparts a sense of what is a reasonable price and what isn't. I find that normally the price reflects the time spent to find something, so when you're buying nice and cheap UNC coins that are easy to find you have an idea that they aren't going to cost you much, whereas when you've spent say, 2 years, looking for one of those hard to get dates, you've got a rough idea from all your searching what you want to pay. Then once you've got it you'll definitely remember what the price was haha. Watching eBay auctions end without bidding is always a good idea, if I know I'm going to be looking for something in particular, I'll add a couple of high grade examples (if they're there) to my watch list, then when I come round to getting one myself I've got a few examples with realised prices. LCS also has a pretty good back catalogue of prices paid which is a good reference, along with various books, Tony Claytons website and regular help from members on here you'll be in the know in no time I'm sure!

There's a thread somewhere on this site that lists most of the auctions that run each year. When I'm not on my phone I'll try and find it because there's not a lot of comprehensive lists out there

Yeah that really is a pain in the derrière

The spiel on the description of this one is borderline manic Link I've left the format as is for extra mentalness; welcome to our store - and thank you for letting us serve you FIRST CLASS RESPECT FOR YOU ! we are here for you 100% satisfaction guarantee. 100% satisfaction is our dream. THANK YOU VERY MUCH many thanks for your GIFT by buying from us great appreciation for your purchase THANKS a lot for purchasing from us ***** BEST WISHES MANY THANKS in trusting us WE CHERISH OUR RELATIONS THANK YOU ***** VERY MUCH

If it helps, it looks like the N is the distinguishing factor here. The left and right hand serifs, in the wide KN, follow down to between the border teeth whereas the narrow N points to 2 teeth. Pic attached for help.

Yeah it's a very small difference, which makes looking at the meagre photos on ebay all that harder to work it out Thanks David

Well it's bloody difficult telling a wide and narrow KN apart from eBay pictures! Is this one a narrow KN? If so it has the flaw as well.

Rash, that was a 2009 post, I think it's still the same book..

Thanks for the solid advice David! Interesting point about the wide and narrow KN type, I'll have a little look later through ebay and see if I can deduce anything from a quick scan of what's on there.

Yeah really confused, I think so is he. Why's it got 27 watchers as well Link

Picked up a better grade 1918kn today and just noticed it's got the bird's foot flaw. Then upon finding this thread, I noticed that it's also got the trident flaw and the same die cracks as David's second coin. Did anything come of this? I see everywhere that these "occur on around 10%" of the 1918kns but not much else. Does anyone recognise this flaw as a variety on here?