Paulus

There'll be tears before bedtime ...

Hi Matt Here's a bronze example using the same set up: p I should have added, the background can be important, worth experimenting. I bought some different coloured crafty materials from the local Tescos (sheets of non-relective foam-like material. Depending on the tone of the coin you are photograhing, lighter or darker backgrounds may work best. The key to the bulb is that you get best results with daylight white - the local DID store should stock them, I got mine on-line. Often bulbs are 'warm white', giving a yellow hue, which in theory can be corrected using the white balance settings on the camera (if you have them), or post production, but I have had far better results with daylight white bulbs. Thanks to Stuart (Coinery on here) for that tip (he even sent me some!)

My current set-up is: Camera: Panasonic DMC-LX7 "The DMC-LX7 is equipped with a 24mm ultra wide-angle LEICA DC VARIO-SUMMILUX lens featuring outstanding F1.4 brightness at wide-end and F2.3 at tele-end. The extraordinarily rich amount of light allows not only using higher shutter speed for blur-free images in lower light situation, but also giving impressive expression by reproducing exquisite gradation and mellow defocus. The Nano Surface Coating is applied to minimise ghost and flaring." Macro: On Tripod: Yes, 8" from lens to coin Lighting: Single desk lamp angled at 45 degrees at 2 o'clock to the subject. 6500K Daylight white bulb. Flash: No Zoom: 0.2 m White Balance setting: Auto Shutter on 2s timer Pictures cropped in Paint.net Example: I have also had good results in natural daylight, but you have to wait for the right conditions and the amount of light is variable. I much prefer being able to control the amount and angle of the light. You may find this article useful: http://coinimaging.com/photography.html

1819 crown - "Re-toned"

1826 sixpence - "Cleaned" 1821 shilling - "Scratches"

I have submitted around 70 coins to CGS over the last few years, a handful of which have been rejected for various reasons. None of my last 20 coins have been rejected, so I guess I have learnt! Here are some rejected coins, together with with reason for rejection 1763 'Northumberland' shilling - "Unauthenticated" (forgery) 1718 shilling - "Field Damage" (thought this was a bit harsh)

Plenty of time to branch out into other areas!

Even better when tilted slightly to the light! Spink September 2015

Cheers chaps ... Another Half Crown

Half Crown

It arrived the other day thanks John, will test soon

Gonna have to acquire some cheap gunky copper to try it out, as I don't have any coins that would benefit from this treatment at the moment ...

More fabulous eye candy BRG

Hi Frank, yes I am keen to see higher res pics, but Flickr appears to be down (from your link) at the moment

Thanks Chris, it would be nice to get the signatures back too, did you say the other day that that was being attended to?

The British Museum?

I agree with this too Matt and Frank. It may be off-putting for bargain hunters to see several bids on their hoped-for steal, or to find that their incremental bid is not enough to take the lead. One word of warning though, sellers that engage in 'shilling' may notice that you have left extra maximum bids above the current price and get their mates (or use another account) to bid you up!

Hi Frank Some info and observations: The key to whether you bought cheaply, about right, or a little over the odds will be the grades of these coins. The seller’s pics, taken through the plastic wallets, are not good enough to determine whether they are around EF (probably) or (significantly) GEF or better. The ‘floor’ value for these pre 1947 silver coins (in any condition) is their bullion value (BV). This is based on the silver content of the coins (they are 50% silver). The spot price of silver is very low at the moment (compared to say 5 years ago), and at today’s prices the total silver value of your batch of coins is about £6. Here’s a ‘ready-reckoner’ (at today’s silver price): Denomination Weight (g) Weight (Toz) Bullion Value (<1920) Bullion Value (1920-1946) Sixpence 2.8 0.090 £0.78 £0.42 Shilling 5.7 0.183 £1.59 £0.86 Florin 11.3 0.363 £3.16 £1.71 Half Crown 14.1 0.453 £3.94 £2.13 Crown 28.3 0.910 £7.90 £4.27 You have paid £12 delivered (always factor in the postage). I notice that you were the only bidder, and increased your maximum bid 3 times – may I ask what your maximum bid was? These coins were minted in their millions (literally), and when news came that in 1947 they would no longer contain any silver at all, people started squirrelling them away, so they are very easy to find in high grades. In 1946 alone there were over 43 million sixpences minted, the other denominations were 1946E > 18m, 1946S > 16m, florin and half-crown both > 22m. This might be an opportunity to try grading these coins yourself when you have them in hand. Did you say you had ordered the grading book I mentioned in an earlier post?

I was after a Charles I milled Briot for ages, lovely coins, prefer milled 2nd issue eye appeal wise I think. I'll be trying to get some decent Charles II silver (I've struggled to find decent grade half-crowns and crowns that don't break the bank, and one day I will nab elephants and plumes!), and extending my hammered a little. All the very best!

Another copper ha'penny I've had for ages and only just gotten round to photographing

Is this an 8 over 6? What do people think?

From me also

Here's what it looks like

You might also find it useful to browse on-line auction results and collections to get an idea of what's out there and prices realised. Here's a link to my own collection (under construction), which includes many halfcrowns and crowns you may be wanting to collect: https://pwcoins.wordpress.com/

Slow down Frank, yes it's the same Rob who posted on this thread ... he helped get me on the straight and narrow about 7 years ago (when I was a newbie) and I have no hesitation in recommending him! He attends the Midland Coin Fair most months I think. Send him a PM