azda

I must admit, finding a high grade hammered in VF or above pretty satisfying, personally i don't think there is such a thing as an UNC hammered, EF is as far as i'd say they'd go in terms of grading

Richard said He had.

I'll be undertaking the mammoth task of Photographing the entire hoard this weekend and i'll post some results up once they are done Some of The Chas Shillings Please before Richard Cherry picks

Totally agree there peter

Is there an online link?

I wonder if fleabay take 10% from that as well. Anybody know?

Check out those import charges http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/141342623275

Hi Jaggy, Very nice image of a small coin! Just a few thoughts...you will get slightly sharper images if you use an f-stop of around 5.6 to 11, possibly up to f-14. Opened beyond that, macro images will show softness (blurriness) due to diffraction. Also, if your camera is mounted very solidly with no vibrations, you will get sharper images if you set your ISO down to 100. If your tripod is really sturdy, a slightly longer exposure can actually sometimes increase the sharpness of macro photos because the shutter slap isn't as pronounced. Cheers, -Brandon Brandon Thanks for the tips. Still have a lot to learn with this photography malarkey. Peckris ... to avoid requoting your post. You may well be right re: mirrorless cameras. But I already have my DSLR (which I did not buy just to photograph coins) and I already have a couple of lenses. So that is a 'sunk cost'. I learned long ago that it is very hard to keep up with technology but if what you have works ....... Charles I totally agree with the "if you have something that works" my camera is an olympus 8.0mp camera and have had no problems with it until now when i wanted to do the cased coins, so will buy some software and see how we go with that.

Ok, we'll it seems i have to purchase that.

The first and last pics are great, i don't have a DSLR camera so obviously shooting individually is what is required. The next question is Then, what software are you using to arrange them individually?

Looking for any tips on how to get good photos of coin sets in their cases and capturing the Details like DNW and other auction houses do. I cannot for the life of me get anything near what i want, perhaps ist the camera but i can take individual coins pretty well with it, but sets such as my 1911 and 1927 are pretty poor for my liking and usual Standards. Should i just remove them from the box and do them individually or has anyone any good tips as i'd prefer to leave them cased and do them. Thanks in advance

And no bloody cherry picking Richard ?

I can see Tomgoodheart drooling AT this prospect, he'd be The man for The shillings, would an alternative be to photograph coins and email those who would/could help?

I thought a skip might have been better

Greek perhaps

Exactly, i emailed him amd he emailed back *TEXT REMOVED* but also changed the grade to the DNW grade. Its not like the coin is'nt identifiable with the large E inscribed in the field. *TEXT REMOVED*, he can make all the profit he wants, i have a problem with large grade increases though.In my email i told him i posted both links onto a well known british coin forum, *TEXT REMOVED*, when i checked it, it was back to NVF, so now his £950 price Tag looks expensive Removed some potentially untrue accusations?????? WTF? I know you emailed to say he'd asked you to remove my comments but now you're basically saying my comments are lies?????? Sorry but i'm certainly not happy that you've taken a side Chris when the evidence was obviously there for another member to also comment, Feels like some censorship going on **See my response to this 6 posts down! (Chris)**

Don't forget the Indian mint Ah yes - wasn't polo invented in India? No that was onion bajhi

I think he might be trying to make the 200k that was stolen from him back, do all dealers try and make double (roughly) on what they've bought?

Don't forget the Indian mint

I've seen some of his offerings, he's expensive in my opinion and his coins all seem to have a similar tone

Best book to get really is Michael Marsh The Gold Sovereign, he also did one on the half Sovereign. Just a quick reply to your question to Chris, not all sovereigns are just bullion coins, there are some rarities in there, i also don't collect it due to the fluctuation price in Gold plus i much prefer a hammered coin these days.

Happy birthday old dude. Take it easy out there captain Pugwash

Personally Richard i would'nt touch it, it does nothing for me, its anemic, weak and not completely round, i'd pay (if i were interested) no more than £200 for it, in fact £150 would be my best punt on this. I don't know why you don't look at some Lizzies in between the Charles, i'm finding some nice stuff, fair enough it can be pricey, but there's nothing better than buying something that actually looks good amd is in high grade, i personally think you need another hammered Focus whilst waiting on Charles because as we see, there's not a lot of quality Charles kicking about right now.

Well he's definately tripping at $1000, if he knows the market then how come it only sold for $235 at Heritage? Basically what he's thinking to himself is that it was a cheap buy so he's just going to let it sit there until someone buys it from him at 200% profit, sorry but i just would'nt even bother offering a damn bean for it knowing the price, plus its been cleaned and more than likely overgraded on the slab, ex Messing hoard?

Exactly, i emailed him amd he emailed back *TEXT REMOVED* but also changed the grade to the DNW grade. Its not like the coin is'nt identifiable with the large E inscribed in the field. *TEXT REMOVED*, he can make all the profit he wants, i have a problem with large grade increases though. In my email i told him i posted both links onto a well known british coin forum, *TEXT REMOVED*, when i checked it, it was back to NVF, so now his £950 price Tag looks expensive