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I’d be very dubious. This is a coin that you should only buy with a good provenance or through a professional dealer or auction house authenticity guaranteed. There are many more fakes than genuine out there I suspect. Jerry

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/278153866658?_trksid=p4375194.c102727.m162921 Opinions on this one? I've always been interested in these pieces and have often thought about buying one, but I'd never buy one without provenance, and certainly not from eBay. It seems odd to me that one should turn up out of the blue in the hands of a seller of general odds and ends. I'm pretty sure there are lots of 19th century fakes out there and probably modern ones too. The description includes "this coin features intricate craftsmanship typical of the period" (hmm) and "Although uncertified"...

Ah, it may be. I'v been thinking about what else it may have bee, like a tape measure or something or just a fob, its the slot that is bothering me.

it could be a snuff box, just a thought...... very interesting. 👍

Things like this can be collectible without being a "variety". If we start calling them varieties, it invites anyone with a hammer and chisel to start creating their own varieties.

Thank you both. It is soaking now, wil let you know how I get on.

she obviously likes red bull with wiings like that

ready for action then LOL

One mans meat is another mans poison . Here's one I have . There not very sort after but are pretty rare. Also in the same vein this one my interest you , Its a 1940 penny with two filled letters the only example I've ever seen.

This is indirectly related to coins, but any advice welcome. I have been using a Pentax DSLR with a standard 50mm lens and Macro rings mounted on a small tripod for my coin photography, and have achieved acceptable results. Now the Pentax body has given up the ghost. It was a bit erratic for a while, but now comes up completely dead. (I have tried checking and recharging the batteries to no avail.) As I see it, I have two options: 1. Replace the Pentax body. A new one would cost around £900. A second hand one on Ebay may be cheaper, but then reliability might be dodgy? 2. I can switch over to using my mobile phone. I can buy a mount to fix the phone to the tripod cheaply, and I can sort out the lighting, but would the results be good enough? Has anyone there had experience of doing it this way and can comment? (My phone is a Motorola Android.) Cheers

Not absolutely everyone then! 😂 Still very happy with my acquisition 🖖

Hey, Jerry, apologies I’m deep in Germany right now. The first coin is definitely a 2b. The second is not a series I collect, yet, so not overly familiar without the literature to hand. Nice wins, though…I had all the Edward Penny lots in my watch list. There was that class 1 coin in a lot, along with a 3/4 fragment of a class 1 with an annulet on the breast…prices were all strong, though, so I just had the 4 Elizabeth coins I was after.

Thanks @Jacqui for the edge pictures. With the knurling on the edges I would think this one will unscrew, the ridges offering the extra grip necessary to make the twist. If/when you get it open, you may be able to see the other sides of the shillings. PS - if you find you can't get it to unscrew, try a little 3in1 oil in the joins.

extreme /ɪkˈstriːm/ The word extreme generally describes something that is of the greatest possible degree, intensity, or the farthest from the norm. It can act as either an adjective or a noun, with specific nuances depending on how it is used. [1, 2] Pretty much ‘what it says on the tin’ to quote the old advert. Not easy set a reference point as to what any particular individual would consider extreme as there will be variation of opinion but with experience you will recognise degrees of misalignment of die repairs that are beyond the norm. I would for example consider the F10 ‘triple F’ Penny to be extreme, the side by side 1’s of 1861 and similar.

It is nice to know about these differences and fun to find one, but I don't have the urge to own them. Standard coins and recognised varieties are more to my level of collecting British copper and bronze coins, but I acknowledge your expertise in this field.

Ok thank you !

It looks to me like a repunched R (not extreme). The underlying letter looks offset to the left and a bit lower, and I can certainly see the traces of the right leg of the R

Topless unless my eyes deceive me!

"Your coin will be carefully packaged in protective materials". WHY???

That size would make it a shilling. The one that's dated 1711 is the "no E" type (E is for Edinburgh where many of the post-Union - England and Scotland - coins were minted, and the E would be below the bust). The other shilling we can't see the date of, but it's a "plain angles" type - i.e. there is just blank space between the shields of the royal arms; the alternative would be roses or plumes between them.

Hi Paddy, thank you for such a quick reply. I should have put the size, sorry. The coin part is approx 2cm. I cant see a hinge as such, hre are re edge pics.

Hi, could you please define extreme, @Martinminerva took the time before to explain this which I understood. But I cant help but notice these. Im posting this here I dont wish to hijack rather continue the conversation. Am I correct in thinking the image I have attached is not extreme. I can't see any trace of the right leg of the R. I over R I dont think so.. but once I see these I kind of stuck on them. I know the early bronze coinage this is quite common. Where it could become interesting if it was I over R. Thanks

I suppose we'll have to arrive at the identity of whoever it is/was by a process of elimination. Could you give us a teeny weeny clue - a long term member or more recent? (Ah, no need. I've seen another 'Guest' post where it was edited before the member left...)

It's a very specialised area - I would guess that the vast majority of collectors aren’t especially interested, or see them negatively as a defect?

No!