damian1986

Thanks for the responses. Maybe I was a bit biased towards wanting it to be a B (since then someone made a mistake!) but R/R probably makes more sense. Richard feel free to use what's there, if you need any other images let me know. Couldn't say if this happens anywhere else in the series but presumably it has.

Just curious if anyone has any examples of some higher grade bronze or copper pieces (including the decimal 1 and 2 pence) the result of striking errors, in particular: Brockage Clipped planchet Off-center strikes Coins mistakenly struck on a bronze or copper planchet These are the sorts of things you see on eBay either as spurious or overpriced - and generally in too low a grade; not often do they appear in auctions (which I can't keep up to date with anyway) or dealers' lists. Shouldn't be too difficult finding these for anything 20th century but never seen anything I'm happy with. This'd do (weakness at opposite side also clear, shown marked): This would definitely do: Undersized flan:

I only just noticed this but I'm thinking R over B in REG - any thoughts? At a glance, I can't find any references to other examples where this is clear / anyone cared enough to note it Edit: this would be a result of repunching of the R to working dies?

Hello Rob! Yes would certainly like to add to my coppers which remained intact. Picked up a couple of tokens over the past 18 months or so but nothing else really. The nice ones don't seem to be getting any cheaper.

Some lovely stuff. Not a recent acquisition but here's one I love to bits. It belonged to Peck.

Yep it's a matt proof

They put a preview of the list on Twitter

I sold most of my silver but will continue to pick up bits and bobs Victoria onwards. I'm focusing on the coppers hopefully have a few to post soon. A couple that i have, probably fortuitously, retained:

Jenna Coleman

It's misleading calling them "legal tender" but he's a bit of a bell end for buying 30 grands worth in exchange for a few flyers' points.

"Like anything of value and being highly collectible, it is probably only a matter of time before criminals decide to copy these coins and pass them off as originals. This is why I have decided to have my coins independently assessed and graded." There's your answer it's because of all those criminals minting £20 coins that can't be spent. These coins in and of themselves aren't going to shift at those prices but if you package them up nicely and stick a label on then you've got a product that's easier to market - not forgetting to throw in a bit of spiel about their supposed investment value. It used to always piss me off too seeing coins I wanted to buy being slabbed and (in my opinion) overpriced, but meh there are so many coins out there just buy something else instead and wait for the next one to come along. Or starting building a cricket library, it's a cheaper way of being an anorak. Merry christmas all.

Thanks Declan! it might have to be a keeper

I was just about to list a half-decent 1928 halfpenny for sale but couldn't find any others for sale on dealers' lists or on eBay. Never had this pegged as a scarce coin but possibly more difficult than one would expect?

Is there a £100 limit on coins listed for sale in the forums? I have a few that I'd let go cheaply to members. Not sure how much interest there'd be. Regardless eBay is not the place to be. Sold an Edward I penny on eBay best offer was way below asking price but he informed me that he was going to be charged £22 for shipping via eBay's Global Shipping Programme

Well here's a gVF that was formerly used as a tea coaster and hammered at £1200 - http://www.londoncoins.co.uk/?page=Pastresults&auc=150&searchlot=1918&searchtype=2 Would say it's a couple of grades better than that even though the photos are a bit rubbish. Thing is why would he underprice a coin that is desirable (i.e. probably quite easy to shift) if it's as described?

It's a car I've admired for a good while. As it goes, the '06 models are still up at around £15k - £20k which is good going for the age IMO. I drive an RX8, good fun until it starts to whinge. These depreciated massively as no one wants to run them Anyway sorry for the thread hijack Nons. You mentioned a couple are slightly down on grade but you're picking up coins with decent eye appeal IMHO. Can't beat a bit of good honest toning.

"Trust me.. never buy a depreciating asset. If it drives, flies, floats or fucks - lease it!" 'tis the plan for the next one.

Yes.

Lordy Lord, you penny collectors!

The advice not to buy too readily is good except I think it gets a bit boring if you're not buying or lining up purchases. For some people requirements are going to be set in stone at the very outset - "I'm building a collection of X" - but I think for most people this changes. Collecting without goals or specific interests doesn't really work because then you ask "What's next?" and the answer could be any nice coin that comes along. At the same time pinning down a set of goals that will keep you happy is difficult because over time you're going to buy coins you get fed up of, coins you still drool over but can't find "a place for", and coins that you would never once have imagined being prepared to buy or had any knowledge of. A few things I find important to remind myself: Your collection doesn't have a target audience, and probably never will. Don't look at your coins all nicely lined up in trays, you'll start to spot bad apples and forget why you bought that particular one in the first place. There is no end point. If you're ticking boxes you'll invent more boxes to tick. Be happy with what you have at all times, not "when I fill that gap". There will always be gaps.For me it's a case of you should buy individual coins that you could happily lock away in paper envelopes and love them enough to want to go dig out that particular one again This is probably pretty rubbish advice if you're collecting any particular series or buying for research purposes, but I think "that'll come later" if time / finances / knowledge will allow. Keep it varied for now.

It helps when the marketing is blatantly that and not a genuine attempt at qualifying the amount of wear a coin has.

I do like the Sheldon scale for grading in theory except arguably it puts too much emphasis on MS coins. No one seems too bothered about an XF45 or an AU 50 but there are tonnes of MS63s and the like that would only grade EF in the British system. It's because they value surface quality much more than wear and strike I think. So again it's subjective, that's what I mean about 'absolute' points of reference. There's a joke I remember hearing... Q: "What would you grade this coin?" A: "Am I buying or selling?"

This thread pretty much sums up the uselessness of grading systems as some sort of absolute point of reference. Not a single definitive answer. aUNC = a coin with wear that the seller doesn't want to list as gEF because aUNC sounds better .

Take your pick between that nice silver Tetradachm and the 1kg doorstop

I like how the image associated with that article is a German 1901 5 mark issued as a commemorative and a mintage of 460,000, the least they could have done is nicked a picture of a kew gardens 50p or something.