Hussulo

Although its incuse I woudn't call it a brockage. I believe its a dropped letter error. If you google this type of error you will probably find more on them but essentialy after grease and grime builds up in a letter and eventually falls out and lands on a planchet during striking it will leave an incuse letter or detail in the design. In this case the Y. If this is the case it is unique as the chances of the Y filling up again and dropping on the same place on another planchet are very slim. However, because it isn't considered to be a major error and there isn't a huge interest in these types I don't think it will make huge money but I agree with ebay being your best bet.

I've seen some in a lot better condition but the one I have is in good condition for its type.

Errr pass. I did fancy trying to collect these by variety at one point. It would make quite a neat theme. To be honest considering their scarcity I think they are under valued.

Its a Nelson 12 type listed as scarce: http://www.coinfacts.com/colonial_coins/voce_populi/voce_populi_n12.htm Here's other types: http://www.coinfacts.com/colonial_coins/voce_populi/voce_populi_coins.htm I've got a Nelson 7 for sale at the moment (rare variety): http://www.prestigenumismatics.com/1760-12p-voce-populi-nelson-7-pcgs-vf35-11-p.asp Unfortunately he hole in yours knocks a big chunk of the value off. I would say worth £20 to the right buyer but you may get more or less on ebay. Its always hard to value a damaged coin.

Goetz's medals are quite collectable. There's a member of another forum that has quite a collection (even bought Goetz's personnel cabinet etc,) and most can be seen at this website: http://www.karlgoetz.com/

Don't try it at home folks. I know its a bit of fun but you can see the colour of parts of the coins that have been cleaned are way off. Silver and gold can be dipped but I don't think I've ever see a dip that works on copper or bronze. Whatever is used seems to ruin the colour of the coin.

I try and snipe myself if I'm around as its more fun but for auctions ending silly o'clcok at night or when I'm out I use: http://www.esnipe.com/ You have to buy points (cheap, Payable via Paypal) to use it but I've been using it for years and its never failed me. I'd be a bit apprehensive to give lesser known snipping programs my ebay id and password.

I wish it was. I've made a couple of good buys/ flips in the past but nothing on that scale. I meant my hunch was correct about it being the same coin.

Your welcome. Heres an article about it someone posted on another forum after I posted the same topic: http://www.coinlink.com/News/world-coins/unique-1928-south-africa-6-pence-graded-by-ngc/ Now I just need to keep my eyes peeled for one of these locally. Edited to add: According to this article "The coin was first spotted in an English country auction where it was cataloged with an unusual notation: the coin’s date was not listed in the standard series reference. It was purchased by a dealer who had a strong suspicion about the its origin." So it looks like my hunch was right.

The London coins one sold 09/06/2009 so thats some time before the Heritage coin. Don't focus to much on the copper coloured spots. Heritage's extra lighting brings them out more. I have picked out and circled features in the toning that match up which makes me believe its the same coin: Heritage Coin ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, London Coins auction coin

I was looking through my latest edition of Coin News magazine and noticed some auction highlights. London Coins auction had a picture and description of South Africa Sixpence 1928 with a price realised of £5000. Then I flipped back two pages as I thought I saw another similar coin on Heritage's South Africa Specimen Sixpence 1928 (looked to be slabbed by NGC) price realised US$155,250!!! Looked at their websites: London Coins (lot 126) http://www.londoncoins.co.uk/?searchterm=1...age=Pastresults and NGC: Heritage: http://coins.ha.com/common/view_item.php?S...mp;Lot_No=21849 Although the Heritage picture has been taken with more lighting, I'm pretty sure its the same coin. Especially if you look at the toning and breaks in the toning.

I think everyone is in Agreement that its over something, what we, or i should find out is, if the V under is in correct alignment, then Why overstamp it? But V isn't the only letter that has been over stamped. In the first picture VIC all look over stamped. Perhaps they were over stamping the letters due to the die wear and the V was stamped slightly squint the second time?

Thankfully the seller has agreed to a full refund inc. postage. So it'll be on its way back tomorrow.

Only up to a point. It might try to explain the Sheldon system in terms of US coins, but if you click on the link to the equivalent grades in other countries it gives AU50 as extremely fine or unc whilst EF40 is extremely fine. This is ebay grading standards. You might find someone on ebay willing to accept the comparison, but anyone with any grading ability who has held an EF40 in the hand wouldn't agree. You have usually got to go to a 64 minimum to get an UNC and even then it isn't guaranteed. I thought it would be useful for the occasional slabbed coin from the US, with an MS grading on it. At any rate I wasn't familiar with the different MS definitions. I'm not quite sure what you're getting at to be honest EF40 by UK standards doesn't come close to EF. Most people would give your typical EF40 a decent VF and not extremely fine, subject to the usual caveat that the numbers on the slab are not always consistent with what you see in the hand. AU50 is typically gVF or maybe a weak EF(UK) - no way will it be close to an UNC. It's the concordance that is the problem. More modern coins tend to be slightly closer graded to British but older coins are way off. The US grading companies are more lenient with early milled and hammered coins. I purchased a nice 1696 6 pence from Spink graded GEF. Sent it to NGC it came back MS63. The reason I did this was not to get it in a higher grade slab but because I was going to sell it on my website and due to it being colourful I though it might appeal to the US market. If someone in the UK were to buy it they could always crack it out and have it raw or send it to CGS. I've a section on coin grading and US Sheldon grading on my new site if anyone's interested. link below: http://www.prestigenumismatics.com/coin-grading-4-w.asp:

I should add. I had to get the lighting right to show up the tiny scratches. It actually looks quite nice and not as obvious from a slight distance in hand.

Oh well just sending the seller a message now to ask for a refund. Most probably know about this but for those that don't the definition of whizzed (coin) In the early 1970's, a technique was developed among dishonest dealers of burnishing their coins on a wire brush wheel. The surface of a coin is buffed to give it the appearance of having natural cartwheel lustre. This practice simulated mint lustre to the ignorant. A whizzed coin usually is easily detected with the use of a good magnifying glass, but some whizzed coins can be very deceptive. Under high magnification the surface of a whizzed coin will show many tiny scratches from contact with the wire brush.

Sorry Peckris. I didn't mean to come across abnoctious or high and mighty. I'm sure there are a lot of things you guys know that I don't That's why its good to share. I have learnt a lot on forums over the years. Speaking of cartwheel lustre. I recently bought a coin on ebay. 1908 S Peso. It looked nice in the sellers picture. It was described as CH Unc. Received it today and it has been whizzed. What a shame another nice coin ruined.

That's the good thing about on line forums. They're a great place for discussion and sharing information/ knowledge and although we aren't always going to agree on every subject, discussion is healthy. I agree that most coins listed on ebay aren't truly Unc or BU. Sellers or owners sometimes like to believe their coins are a better grade then they actually are. Of course it usually takes an impartial viewer or buyer to point out that they aren't but this usually wont go down well with the owner or seller. Some sellers obviously over grade their coins on ebay hoping for more money. This is where knowledge is key. If you try to grade a coin accurately and pay what you are willing to and someone out bids you on a coin listed as Unc, but you only bid AU money on it, they're the ones that will lose out when they try and sell it on.

But Lustre IS NOT colour. If you dip or clean a toned coin back to a red colour it wont have lutre. I agree an Uncirculated BU coin should have lustre and colour but they are both different. The following statement is by Daniel Carr (moonilight mint http://www.moonlightmint.com/index.htm whom has designed and struck many coins and medals) luster is a product of two things : die wear, like you said, but also planchet expansion. Proof-finish coins are struck two or more times because the first strike raises the relief and causes planchet expansion (flow), while the second strike wipes out the flow lines (luster) and imparts the polished finish. I can take a fresh fully-polished die, stamp once with it, and there will be some flow lines visible if any planchet expansion occurs. I can take a freshly sand-blasted (matte) die, stamp once with it, and there will also be some flow lines visible if any planchet expansion occurs. After use, a die will develop luster on it's surface. That luster will transfer to coins struck by it. But if struck more than once, with the planchet expansion contained after the first strike, the second strike will REDUCE the cartwheel luster, even if the die face has cartwheel luster on it. So lustre is essentially flow lines and the reflection of light they produce. Edited to add: Here's pictures of his press (ex Denver mint). http://www.moonlightmint.com/artifacts.htm

and this is why a Morgan Silver Dollar can show "incomplete" hair depth over the ear area on the obverse and grade an MS-64 if the cheek area shows no wear. Incomplete hair may be due to a week strike as opposed to actual wear. When a coin wears down it tends to show wear in more then one area. If you see an area that has been struck weekly like the centre of the coin (hair above the ear), the opposite side (eagles chest) would also display a weak strike. A week strike still would be given a high grade by PCGS as they grade a coin by wear and not whether or not all the details are fully struck up. Morgans are basically the same design year after year but some years and mints are better struck then others.

Toning is nothing more than oxidation (just like steel rusting) of the metal on a coin. The metal chemically reacts with its environment, whether that is air, the envelope or holder it is in, or a coming in contact with a contaminant. Silver can tone through a spectrum of colours and eventually turns black. It is the presence of sulphur that facilitates this colour transformation. One of the most well known collectors of colourful rainbow Morgan Dollar (sunnywood) made up this chart: I'm not saying some of the colourful US coins we see aren't helped along the way chemically but it is interesting to see what is claimed is the stages of colour a coin goes through when toning colourful.

Thats always the way I understood it. You can imagine the tons of pressure when a coin is struck. The metal of the planchet flows into the spaces to fill it. Thats how we are obviously left with raised letters and devices. If you were to look at the field of a coin at microscopic level you would see flow lines. Looking at my picture imagine that you are looking at a dissected coins surface side on. The lustre of a coin is actually the reflection of the light on the field produced by these surfaces. Proofs are a different kettle of fish. Obviously proof refers to coin that has been produced using a specially prepared process. Talking about your standard mirror like proof surface. the planchets are prepared and polished as is the die. When the coin is struck with polished dies and struck multiple times the field of the coin is much smoother and reflects the light at a much more direct straight way which doesn't produce a lustre like cartwheel shine but more a mirrored reflection. Some coins appear proof like. They may have been amongst the first few coins struck by fresh dies. They will have a more mirrored surface as opposed to a lutrey surface. The main way you can tell a proof from a prooflike coin is because a proof will have sharper letters and design as well as edges. This is somewhat due to the fact that it has been struck several times and the flow of the metal has been pushed right up into the spaces of the die. Although red and lustre go hand in hand, because most copper/bronze coins having been freshly struck will be red. Not all red coins have lustre. If you take a toned circulated coin and cleaned it it would be red but won't have any lustre. Also you can get slightly toned coins with lustre (not red) showing through under the toning. If you take 1949threepence's avatar picture for instance. Although its toned you can still see some lustre shining through at 2 and 10 o'clock. Obviously the more a coin tones (which is basically a reaction which forms on the surface of the coin) the more the flow lines are covered and the more the lustre is lost. This theory is proven when a uncirculated toned coin is carefully dipped. Once the coin has been dipped the toning removed the flow lines are revealed and the coin then once again has lustre. If a coin is over dipped the dipping solution will remove the tops of the lines (which are microscopic) and smooth them out which also would destroy the lustre.

I've drawn a simple picture of how I have always believed lustre on a coin works and how its effected.

Could be a bit of grease on the 1 in the die, which once struck makes the 1 not as sharp.

There are still some nice coins to be had on ebay but it is buyer be ware. You do have to sift through a lot of not so good and over rated ones to find them though. Also I have decided to be tougher, if in future I receive a coin I am not happy with ie not as described I am going to start retuning them. I have seen me turn the odd blind eye in the past. I have seen several coins I have been watching being pulled of late as well. As a buyer this is quite annoying. One coin I was watching was in an auction format. I guess the seller wasn't happy with the price it was at with a couple of days to go and pulled it. He has now re-listed it at £650 or make an offer.