Hussulo

I think they have a type set for grading reference. Say bun head pennies graded 1-100 but I find it highly improbable that they have type sets for ALL types of coins they grade. It could be a 90 and the finest known. Meaning it still isn't perfect (100) and the likelihood is there never will be a coin of that type graded 100. It doesn't make it any less of a coin.

They were never that rare, with an estimated production of 100,000 , however they seemed to have grabbed the public's eye and command a large premium. I would like to own one but don't plan on spending £50 etc.. I like your idea however. If people get wind of your plan they will bid it uptil they win only expecting to pay 20p + £2 listing + £2.50 commission, therfore a total of £4.70. Thus you may get silly bids like £10,000 etc for one.. You would be better to list them at £4.70 buy it now, one at a time, but guaranteed the first batch of buyers will just flip them for a quick profit.

Not heard back from the museum yet but the medal arrived today. It's very nice, I took a couple of quick pictures of it. It weighs 21 grams.

Thanks Sion, I have emailed Philip Attwood (Keeper of the British Museum’s Department of Coins and Medals.) "Formerly Curator of Medals, Philip retains direct responsibility for the Museum’s unrivalled collection of around 70,000 medals, comprising commemorative and art medals from the Italian Renaissance to contemporary works...." Hopefully if he has the time he may get back to me and I'll share any new information.

I'm 31 and joined in 2006. This was the first coin forum I joined and remains one of my favourites.

Can anyone please help me identify this medal. I haven't received it in hand yet and the reverse is supposed to be blank. It looks like a renaissance type to me? SMOOTH EDGE MEASURES 29mm x 6.5mm

Merry Christmas and a happy New Year from me as well. Hope everyone had a nice day.

Welcome to the forum.

Welcome to the forum Jay.

Another odd thing is that there's no rhyme or reason as to who gets it. The fittest people sometimes succumb whereas those you would least expect are completely unaffected. Presumably comes down to genetics. Very true. I know Clive is a keen runner and no doubt very fit but altitude sickness can affect anyone. Wishing you all the very best Clive!

Azda I should also add that your coin images look like scans or low quality photos so the coins might be a lot nicer in hand with a lot of lustre and colour not shown in the fuzzy images. I can see a lot of nice detail and they look high grade but the images are a bit fuzzy. The second one, as mentioned is only really let down by the dark stains.

Azda your examples are nice but not BU, the other examples shown could be called BU as they are Uncirculated and still display almost full colour and lustre. I understand what you mean about older coins getting some slack when it comes to grading. In the US they do but in the UK they don't really. Like a lot of hammered coins only really go up to EF grade. I have heard some descriptions being "as struck" and maybe thats a better term then EF for hammered's? Take my 1644 Unite for example CGS graded it EF and not getting into the whole slabbing debate but I'm pretty sure even if it was sent to an auction house it would grade as EF, yet I can't see any wear on it. Sure its slightly double struck and weakly struck in parts but essentially it is nearly, if not as struck. Now the Spink price guide only goes up to VF so if it was sold or auctioned as EF what is it worth? I guess the market would ultimately decide.

UNCIRCULATED A coin that shows no wear at all, looks as it did when it left the mint with all the details intact. It may still display very slight "bag marks" or scuffs due to mass production and storage by the mint. BRILLIANT UNCIRCULATED Same as uncirculated however the coin still displays its original mint lustre (shine & colour). or as Spink defines them 95% colour lustre: Courtesy of MacCrimmon, Taken from: http://www.coinsgb.com/Grading.html

Bob, From my limited experience when offering a US coin for sale and having been contacted by a dealer I would concur with your experience. I think the dealers work off a grey sheet(guide)? which is more for buying coins whole sale. Regards, Hus

I purchased a Red Book for US coin prices. On-line I tend to use: http://www.pcgs.com/prices/default.aspx but you need to remember US grading is different to UK and the rest of Europe plus I've heard the prices are slightly on the high (optimistic) side but it does give you a rough idea and is easy to search.

Thanks for the feedback guys I really appreciate it. I've taken account to the replies here and on other forums and added a link to Toolhaus as well as an extra section on postage and communication. I apologise for any spelling mistakes, to be fair I'm not the Worlds greatest spellers and it was 1am when I finished it but I think its okay now? P.S. I've cleared some of my messages Derek but I'm happy you posted your points on the forum as its good to get a discussion going. Many thanks, Hus

I've just finished adding a my guide to buying coins on ebay. I would be grateful for any feedback. http://www.coinsgb.com/Buying_Coins_On_Ebay.html Can you think of anything that has been missed or needs to be changed?

I have an RBS card reader but never used it yet. PayPal, ebay and other sales don't require it. The only thing I get asked for when sending payments on-line is 3 letters from my password. I've also transferred money to others including dealers on-line but I've just that through on-line banking.

I recently purchased some coloured postcards picturing the coin minting process at the Royal Mint during 1905 and uploaded them to my site. If your interested in seeing them link below http://www.coinsgb.com/Royal_Mint_At_Work_1905.html

Posted on 1 November and left this country the following day. The guy I sold it to tells me that this is the third item posted from the UK about that time which has failed to arrive in Oz. Thats not a long time. I too have had to wait longer at times. Sometimes coins get held up in customs. I would check with Royal Mail though to see if theres a cut off period for making a claim.

Good luck with your new venture Red. I'll be taking a luck at you site from time to time.

I don't normally like to point out what I have for sale but its not everyday you get a chance to sell a 1964 Proof Halfpenny. R19 (2-5 known) according to Freeman. I thought some members might be interested in seeing it: http://www.prestigenumismatics.com/1964-proof-halfpenny-ngc-pf66-exceedingly-rare-36-p.asp edited to add if anyone it interested in purchasing any coins on my site, please ignore "price excludes VAT" message. Its a software problem and we don't charge VAT.

Welcome Rob. I'm sure you will enjoy it here.

For those that are interested this is worth a read to learn about different types of errors: http://www.money.org/AM/Template.cfm?Section=Home&TEMPLATE=/CM/ContentDisplay.cfm&CONTENTID=1656

Yes odd that the 1 shape is almost alligned to the imprint where the Y imprint appears on reverse could someone have been trying to correct an error die with the 1 in Georgius thus the coin was supposed to be wasted??? Or maybe in removing the coin that was stuck down??? I can't explain what looks like a 1. The area is a bit flattened, could be post mint damage. I still stick by my opinion that its not a brockage or even a partial brockage. Here are what full brockage coins look like: http://www.coinsgb.com/Error_Coins/Brockage.html and pictures of partial brockage coins: http://images.google.com/images?q=partial%20brockage%20coin&biw=1024&bih=590 Partial brockage have an indent where the incuse design is. Often many sellers mistakenly list any type of error on ebay as a brockage. I've collected errors in the past so do speak from some experience. Actually the more I look at it the more I believe its post mint damage and not an error. The fact that it is week on the opposite side of the incue Y and the circular line above the incuse Y makes it look like someone perhaps placed a penny on top and hit it with a hammer, leaving a partially incuse Y, edge and flattening on the opposite side. If an error like a partial brockage happens during minting, the opposite side remains perfect (no weakness) as the planchet is still sitting in the dies when struck.