Peckris

Welcome Kieran. No coin is worthless if you enjoy owning it and can learn something from it. As a starting point, your coins pre-1947 have real silver and are worth bullion unless in high grade. Pre-1920 are full silver and worth double that, as bullion. Collect in as high a grade as you can afford, so don't (yet) embark on date runs .. some of us don't at all, ever. Your first thing should be to 'gen' up on the subject. The two best and cheapest things for this would be two of the books in the advert top : CCGB 2018 which is a wealth of information and a price guide too; and 'Grading British Coins'. Get both those and you won't look back. And don't be afraid to ask here - we only cook and eat newbies in odd numbered years.

You ought to put that in your signature or profile Rob - I've lost count of the times I've tried to remember what it is!

Bear in mind there were two quite distinct reasons for forgeries: the silver washed copper forgeries of George III silver between 1816-20 that SEUK collects and studies were done for the good old traditional purpose of trying to get rich quick. The huge number of forgeries of halfpennies between 1770 and after were MAINLY done because of the chronic shortage of base metal coins (the main reason that trade tokens were also minted in large numbers). And when you consider that there was only that short series (1770-1775) between 1754 and the cartwheels of 1797, then the issue of 1799, then 1806-7 and then nothing until George IV - you can begin to understand the scale of the problem.

Probably depends on the quantity of Guinness consumed.

Only if I wear tight shoes...

£1 and £2 coins demand the coinage continues for a good while yet, even if other denominations fall away.

Don't see it - eventually maybe, but coins will disappear long before notes.

Could you believe the recent outcry over the mere suggestion that the bronze coins are now a waste of space? Just for the record, the 1p is worth less than the 1/2p when it was demonetised, and a LOT less than the farthing in 1960 when it went. I will mourn the name 'penny' but not the coins themselves.

More disturbing still is said Katie Price allowing these pictures of her 9-year-old daughter to be published:

You'd be surprised. Dealers don't want lots with a few good pieces in and a pile of dross that will sit on their shelves forever. They might put in very low bids, but a keen collector could outbid, unless they too didn't know what to do with the dross. I got a few such lots when I was a list dealer - I'd cherry pick the good stuff for myself, recording a buying price of say 2/3 book; then I'd put a lot of the rest on my list, selling at under book but still making a notional 100% profit; after that, the dross worked out all but free and I didn't really care what happened to it. (This was late 90s, well before eBay).

That would have been unprecedented. Remember that the 1950, 1951, and 1953 proof sets were all CuNi. Yes, it would have been nice, but the RM couldn't anticipate the kind of nostalgia that's around now, nearly 50 years later. As Rob pointed out, that's a circulated example and has lost its proof coating and become just an ordinary 'impaired' proof. No, there are not different kinds of proof out there, it's just that they introduced frosting in the early 80s, and before then it's a bit hit and miss. Your Aussie set doesn't look any more frosted than your 1970 set, except for the bronze. You can see frosting on the relief of all those 1970 CuNi except the sixpence.

No, that was the second or third attempt, after awful yellowing even on virtually Unc specimens. Certainly by 1925 they were doing what you said, which is why worn 1925 halfcrowns have those ugly brown patches.

Copper forgery. Presumably contemporary.

Ribs, rump, loin, back, and neck?

They were spectacularly incompetent when changing to a 50% alloy in 1920.

What does the remaining 7.5% of sterling silver actually consist of?

I don't think the right hand picture is of a sandblasted die. Unlike the one on the left, the finish is very uneven, like an ordinary example that's simply not been cared for properly. You can see bits of the original lustre which couldn't possibly be present on a sandblasted example - you can compare with the even matt finish on the left.

Probably the first and last time I will see anyone get excited about a 1937 penny.

If it's pre-1920 it could be either. Post-mint damage to the 50% alloy coins will show some discolouration whereas that looks pure silver.

I should add one - just one! - track that's absolutely guaranteed to get anyone on the dancefloor: Earth Wind & Fire and the Emotions - Boogie Wonderland.

What date is it?

That IS very nice indeed. Especially as 1920s and 1921s are often pretty ropey.

How long before some of those appear on eBay as "genuine" listings!