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interesting....a random guess,,, could it be by chance Western Ganga Dynasty? 1 Fanam... this would be gold....a ultra rare coin if correct , seeing the other side would be beneficial. 👍
- Today
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Paddy started following Where is best to sell a collection of pure gold limited edition proof coins? and Mrs
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Welcome to the forum! Difficult to say what that is from the picture you have posted. I think I see an owl, which might take us to ancient Greece, but I may be seeing things. Can you get better close up pictures of both sides? An accurate weight would also be useful
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woo hoo...😁 the bell mint mark was an awesome find for my day.👍
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100% correct on all accounts 👍
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Yes, you could be right! I’ll see what NonM turns up with…I might get lucky, otherwise I’ll be getting the Canon out
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today I took another chance rummage in the box of hammered coins, I chose to show this one as I'm pretty sure this is correct. It weighs 0.9 Grms I believe with the two Pellets that makes it to be a Half Groat. m.m. is a Bell 1582-3 could it be I could be right ???
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I think these photos were taken after the coin has been slabbed and not before. Otherwise, the resolution wouldn't be so poor. But some of the earlier slabbed CGS coins don't have CGS photos. Photos was optional in the early days and the fee was halved (if I remember correctly) not to have a photo taken.
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Agree with you 100%…and there’s nothing nicer than sitting down with a book/catalogue and a beer…scrolling around on your phone for details, whilst useful at times, is utterly soulless!
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I now have the images from the original sale at London Coins in 2020. The photos are taken with the coin out of the holder, but it was being sold slabbed, so I guess these might be the original CGS images I’m looking for? The colouration of the toning is very attractive, I was hoping the original images by CGS might capture it. Will have to do it myself I think…it’s coming out of the slab anyway
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Which pretty much makes the irrefutable case for a proper paper library. Worst case is the house burns down, but then, even so, most of the catalogues would be legible, if somewhat smelly. As it's the 25th anniversary of another paraphrase/quote by an earlier incoherent Republican US president than the present incumbent, 'Never misunderestimate the frequency with which the improbable happens'. Sorry Dubya. They also hold their value if stored in dry conditions, so the frequently heard complaint that £5 on a book is a waste of money is total bollocks. My bound volume of Montagu pts.1 to 3 cost £175 twenty years ago. That would go for closer to £1750 than 175 at auction. Think back to a St. James's sale a few years ago when 3 years of Seaby's WW2 bulletins bound in one sold for thousands. Can't remember the years specifically, but I bought the same date run from a well known deceased collector living in Wakefield and couldn't shift them for 12 months because I was unreasonably asking £15/year (Paid £10/yr). Unfortunately, or perhaps fortunately in the right setting - Oscar was right. People know the cost of everything and the value of nothing.
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For proof coins, I believe unless it's PF70, unfortunately anything below that grade is normally trading at spot price with max +10% premium if good days. As Paddy said, auction house is the most easiest way to get rid all in 1 go, but have to take into account the commission they are going to charge. If selling it individually or dealing it personally, also have to pay attention to the insurance limit of postage, especially nowaday 1oz gold already at over 3k. For bullion coins, i think it's a good deal if dealer is offering 100% spot. If you are going to sell at forum or private market, i think you may get 1-2% above spot. But again you have to take care postage, insurance etc. Hope this helps.
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If it's Gilbert on Canterbury then the full reverse legend would read either GIL/BER/TON/CAN or, if the moneyer's name was spelt Gillebert, GIL/LEB/ERT/ONC So directly to the left of the cross should be L, R (or B), N (or T) or C, although I can't honestly say I can make out anything. On the obverse, starting at the far left, I think I can see an E and the ligated NR and would agree it is a class 5 which would imply the presence of a sceptre off-coin.
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I'm away for a week but poke me about this next weekend. I had a quick look before I left but couldn't see that UIN. I will check properly on my return.
- Yesterday
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Cathy Stevens joined the community
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Can anyone help me with this. I came across it today. Is it a coin? It’s not magnetic. Any advice would be great. Thank you ☺️
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As no one else has responded, I will do my best. Gold, particularly modern gold, is not my speciality. First of all, welcome to the forum. I hope you stick around once this particular query is resolved. I am not surprised the dealer company you spoke to offered only gold spot price. That is the default solution for most coin dealers and jewellery outlets as that way they are covered if the goods prove unsaleable at a premium. If you want to sell them as one lot, a dealer is the most likely option, unless you can locate a collector with deep pockets who wants all of them. You will get better value by breaking the collection up and selling pieces individually. There are two main ways of doing this: 1. The easy way is to use an auction house specialising in coin sales, who will list it as multiple lots. You will, of course, lose out to the commission, both buyers and sellers, that they will charge, but at least the market will dictate the hammer price. If you go down this route, give us some idea of where in the country you are so we can suggest a convenient auction house. 2. The most profitable way is to effectively become a dealer yourself for a while, selling through online platforms such as Facebook or Ebay, or even taking a market stall somewhere. You will get a much higher price for the items, but have the hassle and expense of the process. You will also have to handle the occasional dodgy buyer, particularly when selling online. If you go this way, you will need to do your research to know what price to ask, using published online auctions and/or Ebay as a guide. (Remember with Ebay that it is the actual sale price that counts, not the often ridiculous asking price!) I hope that helps.
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stephen1s joined the community