RLC35

Gary, I check Freeman and Peck, and neither had a reference to wide and narrow dates. The one I have in my set does seem to be a quite wide date, but I don't have a duplicate to compare it too. Bob C.

I had an ultrasonic cleaner, very similar to the one pictured, and it did not live up to the advertisement. Would not clean anything off of coins, except extremely light tarnish, wihout adding chemicals. The chemicals would have done the same job, without the cost of the unit. Just my humble experience! <ggg> Bob C.

Chris, Have you tried Charles Davis in Boston as a possible distributor of your books? He carrys the Freeman books. I was referred to him by the ANA (they use him also) when I was looking for some differant English Books. His e-mail is Numislit@aol.com, if you are interested. Bob C.

From the larger pictures, it does appear that some of the Beads (the ones you can see clearly) are really beads, but you would have to be a lot closer to the coin than the picture, to be sure. Even then you may have to remove it from its case. I cannot see the detail to the left of the lighthouse to be able to tell anything about the number of rocks that are to the left. It also appears the the 0 in 1860 touches the ring, whcih is not usually the case. Freeman mentions the fact that the 1860 Mule penny has two differant reverses, as well may be the farthing, as the book refers you back to the penny with regard to the reverse. The main differance in the two penny reverse's is that on one, the beads are clearly defined, and on the other (Rev D) there are occassionally beads with "legs" due to reverse die deterioration. To be sure on this coin you would have to have it in front of you, and maybe even out of the case. Bob C.

I think it is mostly hype, to be honest! Halftime: Indy 16, Chicago 14

To Mark and Gary S.... Very professional arraignment. Good luck to you both! Go Colts! (Superbowl Sunday) Bob C.

I think the Buyer and the seller are acquainted, and a return guarantee has been offered if the coin is not as represented. Bob C.

I sent him a note, when I saw he had purchased the Mule. Bob C.

I just took a look at the mule from enlarged pictures. Although the beads/toothes were not as sharp as I would have liked, I do not feel that the farthing for sale is a mule. Mostly based on the lrge rock to the left of the lighthouse (Peck, pag 440/441). A couple of other things are the 0 of 1860 touhes the outher ring. On the mule it does not. Also the beads/toothes appear to be closer to the outer ring, which in fact should be the opposite. Bob C. PS the coin has SOLD!

Thanks Colin. I understand your reasoning. Regards, Bob C.

Josie, I know how you feel, I was really unsure about what to do with this item. Do you ignore it and let people bid on something that is not what it appears to be with the view that it is buyer beware. The problem with that is that it is a lot of money for someone to invest into something when it is not what it seems. I sympathise with the seller because they are stuck with the item and the error is not theirs. I sent a polite e-mail to the seller stating my view and explaining the features that are found on a beaded border reverse and referred them to the coins in Colin Cookes collection and the comparisons on my site. I even offered to put something in writing if they did want to take the issue up with the grading company. Colin, I looked at the eBay ad, but could not see the coin well enough to determine if it was a real mule or not. The farthing mule is know to be poorly struck on the reverse, and some of the "dots" are known to have legs. The deciding factor in that case are the rocks to the left of the lighthouse, there should not be a single rock, per Peck, but multiple smaller rocks. Do you still have the enhanced pic of the coin you received? If so, can you post it? Bob C. I am not interested in trying to bad mouth sellers and I have no problems with this seller who has been courteous and efficient in their response throughout the process, and I have to admit if I was in their position I would probably treat my e-mail with a bit of suspicion and would want to check it out before deciding what to do, but I feel as a member of the numismatic community that I should advise people of my opinion. I also would not put this opinion forward unless I was sure of my comments.

Josie, There are two copies of the Peck book on www.abebooks.com. One is $192.00 USD and the other is $250.00 USD. Bob C.

A couple of Chemicals that can be purchased in the U.S. are "Nic-a-tone" and "Dellars Darkner" Nic-a-tone is a liquid, and Dellars is a paste. Both will retone (darken) Copper and Bronze coins. If you have a reasonably decent coin that has been brightened by cleaning, both will work to retone them. I would never use it on a coin better than GVF though, since you have to gently swab the coin, until the desired color has been attained. I bought a 1860 farthing mule, from Michael Freeman, that had been cleaned, and it toned back very nicely, using nic-a-tone. Bob C.

I like the way you have highligted every other line in the pricing pages. That really helps direct you to the correct price. I also like the layout of the book, and the use of color throughout the sample document, with th exception of the "bold" purple type on page 7, which is very gaudy. Very good job. Bob C.

Happy New Year from the USA! Bob C.

Here is the Penny. The top penny is the high tide, and the lower Penny is the low tide. Regards, Bob Crawford Here is the Penny. The top penny is the high tide, and the lower Penny is the low tide. Regards, Bob Crawford Here is a second set of pics. You can see why I placed the low tide penny on the bottom in the earlier pics. Regards, Bob Crawford Thanks Bob, Once again you have been most helpful, would I be able to use these pictures for reference on my new up (currently in build) website? If so I shall put "Courtesy of "Bob Crowford" bellow the pictures. Regards, Hus Hus, Yes, that will be fine. My name is spelled "Crawford" though, not Crowford. <ggggggg>. I guess I shouldn't complain however...I have been called much worse! LOL! Regards, Bob C.

Here is the Penny. The top penny is the high tide, and the lower Penny is the low tide. Regards, Bob Crawford Here is the Penny. The top penny is the high tide, and the lower Penny is the low tide. Regards, Bob Crawford Here is a second set of pics. You can see why I placed the low tide penny on the bottom in the earlier pics. Regards, Bob Crawford

I'm sure Colin Cooke collection had one, catalogue should still be viewable online John Thanks John. I'll check it out. Bob C. John, They do havea pic on the Colin Cooke site, but it is poor quality, and the date is fuzzy. Thanks for the tip though. Bob C.

I'm sure Colin Cooke collection had one, catalogue should still be viewable online John Thanks John. I'll check it out. Bob C.

Does anyone have a good pic of the 1843 farthing with the I for 1 in the date. I thought I saw one in the forum at one time, but cannot find it now. I believe the obverse B is Peck 1564. Regards, Bob C.

Gary, You won't believe this, but I found one in Chicago for $2.00! With shipping it will be $6.50. Thanks for the information. Bob C.

Peter, Thanks for the reply. I think the biggest differance in American and English grading is above the grade of Fine. There is a big difference in VF-EF-and AU. I agree with you about ebay...when I look at coins there, I pay no attention to the seller's grade, as it is seldom even close to reality. I try to decide on my own what the grade is and what the coin is worth based on my own observation. Regards, Bob C. Hi Gary, I will give that one a try. Who knows, someone might still have one for sale. Regards, Bob C. An author search at Abebooks.com with a keyword from the title should bring up any avaliable listings. John John, That was a great lead! That location has everything, even Michael Freeman, and Wilson Peck books. I appreciate the response. Bob C. Hi Gary, Thanks for the URL. I have been to your site before, but didn't see the picture guide...it is very good. I am not a novice collector, although with my questions, you might think that <gggg>. I have been collecting American, British, Australian and Irish coins for almost 50 years. I have never tried to find a definative grading guide for British, and Australian coins however, but have always wanted one. Thanks very much for your reply and your help. Regards, Bob C.

Can anyone suggest a good grading guide, with photo's for Victorian Bronze conage. I see a lot of written explainations, but they leave a lot to personal interpretation. Even some suggested tips would be helpful for higher grades (VF and up). I have heard that you should look for "no flattening" of the fingers around the trident, as a way of determining EF. I have also heard of the need for the leaves in the wreath having all veins apparant. Any comments? Thanks, Bob C.