RLC35

Centsles gets by, on eBay, with showing his coins as certified (picturing them), while not stating they are certified, which is not allowed. EBay only allows about three reputable slabbing companies to be listed as certified, and NNC is not one of them!

Gary is right about Centsles. He always slabs his own coins, and overgrades also. Did any of you see the group of English pennys, and silver he has on eBay now? They are all over graded. If you ask him a question he seldom answers you. I stay away from him.

I was looking at it upside down, and also in a picture, instead of in the hand...so I wouldn't have as good of a view of it as you. But it did look like it might be a double punched V.

That looks like a Repunched "V". There is no variety (V over V) listed for that Half Sov. though.

I think the male person you are referring to is the Duke of Cumberland, or "Cumberland Jack" as he was known.

Peck, The <50 feedback, in this case, is less than 50 "sales" or "purchases," not 50 % feedback approval. I think you and I are talking about separate things. I don't think I have ever seen a feedback of 50% ( and I hope I never do, LOL). Many sellers won't even accept bids from Buyers who have a feedback of <5, and PayPal won't pay more than $175 regardless of the sales price, if the Buyer has <50 (sales or purchases) feedback.

I like the eBay concept, but it is full of pitfalls! 1) Now that you can't see the screen name of the bidder, it is harder than ever to recognize if there is a shill, bidding for the seller. The % of bids with this seller option, does help somewhat. 2) You can just about forget the grading given to a coin by the seller. It is better to try to grade for yourself, and bid on what grade you believe the coin is. Some sellers will provide better pictures on request...but other buyers will be "reluctant" to provide the extra clarity you may need. For those sellers that will not provide extra clarity, especially for rare coins...I stay away from! 3) The PayPal guarantee is also a joke, and is full of conditions you will never know, unless you file a claim. For instance...if a seller has less than a 50 feedback, then the maximum PayPal payout is $200. Then there is also the $25.00 deductable! Under the <50 feedback rule, you can lose a coin valued at $3,000, and you will just receive $175.00 (200-25) from PayPal. Even with the above issues, I still like to use eBay, and PayPal, despite the 15% combined cost.

The seller has a whole list of "Rainbow" toned coins...and is going to list more of them later on! What a waste!

Numishoro Is that a "raised Dot" between the O and the N in One? Or a small indentation?

Probably the first thing you need to do is change the images from BMP to jpeg. BMP images are quite large, and probably will be too big for the Forum site. I think there is a limit of 150k (total) for images, so you may have to send them (jpeg images) in 2 or 3 responses.

Dave, Gary Schindler is "Bronze & Copper Collector" on this Forum.

David, You might want to send Michael Gouby a pic of the 1880, 8 over 8 that you found. I think he is tracking the new found items that are showcased in his new book (like your 1880, 8 over 8).

The all red warning screen is an alert from the McAfee security system in my system!

Peter, I'll bet your insurance rate is really cheap also! I'm with you!

Chris, It must be fixed. The red Warning screen doesn't come on any more. BTW...I am on Google Chrome.

Chris, My security program (McAfee) says the Forum is infected with Malware! BC

Here is an old time Blues version of "My Bonnie" by Ray Charles. This was early in his career. <object width="480" height="385"><param name="movie" value=" &hl=en_US&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src=" &hl=en_US&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="480" height="385"></embed></object>

You are right Huss...those are great pic's! I have a Canon Powershot SD1000 Digital Elph, and it takes good pic's of coins, and also coins in "Clear" slabs. It doesn't take good pic's of slabs with a "white" background though. There is always a reflection of the camera back in the picture. Have you tried yours with a white background slab? I would be interested to know if you have the same issue.

Here's mine. It's hard to take a pic thru a slab. There are hairlines on the slab, but the actual coin has extremely smooth fields. It is in a NGC slab (USA).

Peck, You are right, there are a lot of different understandings, but not a lot of firm documentation. Prior to Derek's book being published, most of the English grading that I was familiar with, was only "written" grading comparison's, and not "visual" comparisons. Derek's book gives good visuals of English grading, plus a cross reference to US grading. For me that is very helpful. In my experience, the biggest grading errors, with English coins are made on my side of the Pond, since most "run of the mill" Dealers here don't have a clue how English coins are graded, thus they grade by the seat of their pants. I tried to negotiate a coin listed with a well known American Dealer, because the fingers on the trident were wearing flat, and he had the coin graded as extra fine. His reply was...well I bought it for extra fine, so I have to sell it for that! Needless to say, we didn't get together on the coin, though I really wanted to buy it. With the normal discussions within each of our Countries on our own grading, you know there is going to be a lot of mis-understandings and conversation when two countries start comparing a 100 point English system to a 70 point American system.LOL! Have a great weekend!

American collector's grading is "as a general rule" one grade higher on the scale than English grading (above Good). There is a lot of latitude though, since everyone see's things from a different set of eyes. I use the following as a rough comparison of American to English grades. English = Poor To be equal, the American coin would have to be = Fair English = Fair To be equal, the American coin would have to be = About Good English = Good To be equal, the American coin would have to be = Good...These two grades are about the same for both systems! English = Very Good To be equal, the American coin would have to be = Fine English = Very Fine To be equal, the American coin would have to be = Extra Fine English = Extra Fine To be equal, the American coin would have to be = AU The varying degrees of grading between the above grades are also open to interpretation, though not shown. Derek's book "Guide to Grading British Coins" goes into the comparison's much better, and is a much better one to use!

Here is the large bead mule. Note that in both coins the reverse beads are closer to the inner ring, than they are to the rim of the coin. This is one of the easy ways to ID the Mule. Toothed coins are not that way!...sorry again Colin, I promise not to go any further! LOL!

Here is the small bead 1860 Mule. I will send the large bead next!

Azda There are two know types of the toothed border/beaded border "Mule" farthings. One has large beads, and one has smaller beads. Colin is right...the one you have is toothed/toothed. The definate way to tell if it is a beaded reverse, is to count the beads. The toothed border has more beads! Sorry Colin, I had to do it! LOL! I'll try to find my two examples (large beads and small beads), and post them later.

The mint mark is on the Reverse side of the Half Dollar, just above the Liberty Bell (in the middle of the coin). It is either a "D" or a "S".....