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Yes, some people continue to describe an 1858 5/3 for various nondescript overstrikes, doubling etc but it has long been suspected that a genuine 5/3 doesn’t exist. The likely candidate for Bramah 25A is what Gouby describes as 5/? with the protrusion on the left within the lower loop of the 8. There has been suggestion that 25A is over a 2, though of course 1852 pennies were never issued and the survival of an 1852 die for six years until use is also unlikely. That doesn’t eliminate the possibility of an erroneous digit punch being used in a die repair though. Jerry

Another raw claimining 1858/3 Looks similar overdate to one in PCGS, at quick glance. Die crack that PCGS one does not have. https://ebay.us/m/59lIoN (Both this and the one in PCGS have hair ribbon-like things, which I recall theories being die clashes. PCGS one even has extension to hair curl's end).

Another graded example, this in PCGS slab. Possibly something under there, but I side w Michael it does not look like 1853's "3", the shape is wrong. https://ebay.us/m/veFOIB

I found another supposed example graded by NGC, for sale on ebay Frankly picture is too grainy to help. https://www.ebay.com/itm/137154063942

I realize the title should specify pennies. Lazy omission. If any mods are able to edit that, I would appreciate it.

Genuine 3 from 1853 (via Michael's website)

From the graded example

I have read through Michael Gouby's discussion of 1858 pennies. He seems to feel there are no 8 over 3. I may side with him. His reasoning seems sound. https://www.michael-coins.co.uk/cp_1858.htm I have looked at current ebay offerings of 8/3, none of them look promising as specimen. A couple examples (yes sellers make wild bs claims, nothing new) https://www.ebay.com/itm/177731430716 https://www.ebay.com/itm/336379281950 There was a graded example on Heritage, but I'm not convinced it is an 8/3, either. https://coins.ha.com/itm/great-britain/great-britain-victoria-penny-1858-3-/a/3015-24982.s Anyhow, has there been more supporting evidence come forward? Do you think there are examples, or do you agree with Michael?

In other words, roll the swab between fingers/thumb, don't wipe or rub. Use the technique in this video

Dansco 7070 is pretty much the standard. They have been back in print, so a lot more reasonable than a few years ago, but yes, still expensive. Are you against importing from the US? I'd think some eBay sellers are willing to ship there. Whitman made similar albums (not the cheap folder types), but I'm not sure they are made anymore. Littleton may have a ripoff of the Dansco, but I don't know if they do international post. You could probably get one of us in the US to relay it, but I imagine, if you're willing to ship from US, lots of sellers are willing. Found an old Whitman basic type set. Pretty sure they don't print it currently, but this is (I'm assuming) what you'd be looking for. I do not see any on eBay presently. When they pop up, some people do price gouging. https://www.mercari.com/us/item/m20076526228?sv=0

Have you heard of using gun bore cleaner? Not sure how accessible that is over there. I know it is part of the process used by a guy over here, for cleaning copper, bronze. But the rest he keeps pretty secret.

I had an empty row at the bottom of the last page of my shillings, after the 1970 proof coins. So I decided it would be fun to put together some similar sized and valued coins (in terms of buying power then) from earlier in the 20th century. Plus the 5 pence proof from 1990 is in silver as well because that was the last year they were made the same size as the classic shilling and the shilling was finally being demonitized 20 years after decimal day. The other coins are: 1930 US Standing Liberty Quarter 1917 French 1 Franc 1930 Irish 1 Shilling 1917 Italian 1 Lira 1909 Imperial Germany 1 Mark It’s an interesting comparison of economies that the franc, mark & lira are all a single unit of their basic currency, the US is one fourth of a dollar and the shilling was one twentieth of a pound sterling. Though their economy was weaker, Ireland at that time pegged the Punt to the Pound. The US was far stronger than all of mainland Europe but the UK ruled over all until WWI shattered everyone but the US.

Sometimes wipes only show up in certain angles. A friend recently got a German piece from Künker in which pics and description say nothing of cleaning, but he shared a video where it's clear. Hairlines over both the fields and devices. He's pretty unhappy about it, obviously. It's the sort of thing that lead to TPGs becoming so popular here in the US. That and whizzing being so popular here for a time. Künker is a really big AH, with hammers averaging more than 2.5x of estimates.

Welcome @SJo! That looks like post mint damage (PMD) to me. Someone messing around in a workshop.

Hi. And welcome to the forum. What would be the year and die pairing for this? Bob.

Hi, I have a 1937 Penny with a marked edge and not flat, and am wondering what this is. Apologies for my obvious lack of correct terminology.

Thanks, I cant draw the same lines because the coin is slightly rotated in the image, I'm quite sure the A is located the same as PW1967 and Gary's. So all three of these coins are quite consistant in the placement of the A. Also on all three coins the A stands quite alot. The coin in question (my one) the proposed A is quite weak and located roughly a few mm to the right. Until I receive my coin and take macro photos Im leaning towards it's not a die letter A on my coin. I wonder who has the other examples with the A to the right of the LH.

@PWA 1967 The coin on left here is the one you have.

Its the same one that sold at LCA a few years ago and can see a large picture of the reverse on there website.

Thank you, would it be be possible please to upload an image of the complete reverse. Thanks.

The problem with all lower grades is that it is subject to the degree of dishing to the flan. The dies always seem to have a more dished reverse (probably by design to see the date (as opposed to the monarch which is easily discernible from the profile. The less dishing, the more even the wear. Whatever, Fine for me too on the obverse, the reverse inevitably better - say good Fine or nVF.

I tried to line it up squarely