Peckris Posted July 6, 2010 Posted July 6, 2010 I had a published theory about the survival of 1923 halfcrowns in high grade : it was the last year of high mintage of halfcrowns of the old type. (Low mintages in 1924-26.) My theory is that a (?large) bag of 1923 halfcrowns didn't get issued, and was belatedly released after 1928. By that time, the old designs were wearing rapidly due to shallow design. People getting uncirculated 1923s in their change might have thought "Hey, the old design! And in nice condition too!" and put one or two aside. And so more survived than other dates. Just a theory of course, but there has to be a reason why that date is so easy to find.I think this is very plausible. Something new tends to galvanise people into not only putting aside an example of the new design but saving one of the old ones too. Could this be the reason why the easiest bun penny in BU is 1887?Interesting - I've always found 1889 and 1890-92 are easier! Unless you mean STRICTLY BU rather than Unc with loads of lustre? Maybe the 1887 is commoner because it was the year of the Jubilee Head silver (the first silver redesign for 50 years!) and though ugly, people obviously saved the new coins in large quantities? Then, though there was no base metal redesign, people would have to "throw in" a penny halfpenny and farthing to make up the complete set. Quote
argentumandcoins Posted July 6, 2010 Posted July 6, 2010 About 5 years ago I bought a nice group of B UNC bun heads in auction. There were 4 x 1862, 3 x 1873 and 2 x 1881 as well as some 1860 halfpennies and a Beaded Border Farthing. All came from a deceased estate and were found neatly wrapped in newspaper in the old girls drawer!! When, where and why did she get them? Why keep them wrapped in paper?It just goes to show that they do turn up in funny places Wonder what the price was? The 1873s and 1881s (especially) are very difficult in high grades!From memory they were sold in 2's and 3's. The highest price paid was about £260 plus 17.625%.One of each went into the collection and the rest were sold. I was a bit hasty with the 1881 and took £650 I think. It was probably worth closer to £800 at that time but my overdraft needed reducing! Quote
1949threepence Posted July 7, 2010 Posted July 7, 2010 My 1928 PennyIn nice condition, although is that a spot of verdigris near the I of IND ? Is it lustrous ? Lustre is so difficult to assess from photographs I find.I guess everyone has a different collecting experience, it's just that as I come near to signing of the GV series in AU 85% lustre +, it's interesting to reflect on how easy each coin has been to hunt down compared to the projected rarity figures one encounters in Freeman et al.OK I haven't turned over every stone in the world looking and I've also been collecting the EVII and old heads in parallel, so there is absolutely nothing scientific about my observations, but here goes:Leaving varities to one side for now, I expected 1922, 1926 and 1934 to be difficult and so they have proved. 1915 and 1916 were so difficult I compromised on condition, and 1920 and 1928 just haven't seemed to turn up for me, yet.I'm having a struggle not compromising on condition, must stay strong I'd say it was definitely lustrous, and it may be verdigris by the IND.Nice coin.I've got an NEF 1928, with just a trace of lustre, but also a weird slight stain on the obverse. Quote
Peckris Posted July 8, 2010 Posted July 8, 2010 worst strike?like that?or that?Certainly not that 1918! Apart from some damage to the 8 in the date, the hair detail on the obverse is WAY above average for that particular date - I congratulate you on that penny scott Quote
Peckris Posted July 10, 2010 Posted July 10, 2010 yea but look at the reverse You talking about Britannia's face and chest? That's standard! Forget the farthing below it, the penny series was plagued with ghosting etc. The poor definition of Britannia's upper is not only usual for pennies (except the 'recessed ear' variety of 1915-6), it's entirely related to the high profile of the obverse. It's virtually impossible to find a penny Britannia before 1922 (with the possible exception of 1911) without that effect. Believe me scott, your 1918 is a good one (based on the obverse). Quote
scott Posted July 11, 2010 Posted July 11, 2010 best one i could find, bar a few 1895-1910bit more detail on both sides then photo makes out, massive die crack going from E in ONE all the way to trident too, guess a good strike caused a strain Quote
Peckris Posted July 12, 2010 Posted July 12, 2010 best one i could find, bar a few 1895-1910bit more detail on both sides then photo makes out, massive die crack going from E in ONE all the way to trident too, guess a good strike caused a strainscott, that is an EXCEPTIONALLY good reverse strike for that series. There may be ghosting (ahead, but while there's music and moonlight ♫ ♫ ... oops, got carried away there for a moment ) but there's more detail on Britannia's boobs and phys than you normally see on pennies. Quote
PWA 1967 Posted May 18, 2015 Posted May 18, 2015 WW1 pennies that are well struck are tough to find, but someone must have them, this is not a new pastime.Here's my 1917Small world i have that penny its c.g.s. 8418 Quote
Nordle11 Posted May 19, 2015 Posted May 19, 2015 Only 4 years later as well XDWhile this was up, I just got this today.. Good strike for the year..Some seriously eclectic toning going on though, and this was just an iPhone picture! 1 Quote
hazelman Posted May 19, 2015 Posted May 19, 2015 I agree re: 1934 1918 & 1919 were the easiest for me but ive managed to get a UNC 1920 & 1928 the 1928 is BU. Quote
pokal02 Posted May 20, 2015 Posted May 20, 2015 As a very young collector in the late 60's I remember quite a few 1948 pennies turning up in circulation with much lustre - much more so than 49's, 61's, 62's & 63s. Perhaps someone hung on to them as the last 'IND IMP' date? . Quote
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