mrbadexample

I've got a copy of CCGB. I've also got a copy of Spink (and the cynic in me wonders if the super-high valuations listed are to help their auctions achieve better results, or specifically for ebay sellers to quote. ). I usually rely on a combination of as many references as I can lay my hands on, but what makes you discount the CGS valuations? Experience would lead me to believe that most people would accept them. But are they updated?

I don't worry about it. I'm not the worrying kind. However, if I'm buying a coin I would like to know I'm not paying more than I should. So where do I go for an accurate valuation? I need some kind of reference, not having all the current valuations stored in my head.

Hi all, I was just wondering if CGS ever update their valuations. I.e. if a coin was slabbed 5 years ago and given a value of £100, will this be the same value given if I go and check the coin in 5 years time, regardless of the fluctuations in the market? Is it possible to determine when a coin was slabbed and valued? Surely, if it remains the same it's all largely pointless? Thoughts appreciated. Cheers, MBE

I think it's uncollectable.

My mate's the arcade manager for a group of holiday camps, and on notice.

This fella's had the Duraglit working overtime. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/One-Farthing-1835-William-IV-unc-/331820491039?hash=item4d420ae11f:g:pjMAAOSw~bFWP0mm

Absolutely. I don't have one as I won't pay that much for it. It will turn up in my change!

Which is still quite a lot for 50p.

So is it the frosted finish to the raised parts of the design that makes it VIP then?

I think Paulus has nailed it.

Ok, who's going to tell me what a VIP proof is? Presumably different to a "normal" proof?

Sorry Pete, it's my fault. I've a set of winter tyres for my car. Hence the mild winter when they were (quite unnecessarily) fitted. Obviously, I've got the summer set back on now.

Krause:

I still get a buzz out of an auction. Also a last second sniper for two very good reasons: 1. It doesn't give people time to react to my bid, and go higher 2. It doesn't give me time to react to an overbid, and up mine beyond what I am prepared to pay just because I'm a little belligerent. Number 2 is the most important. I got outbid yesterday on an 1802 Austrian 7 Kreuzer (I just wanted it for the unusual denomination). Just one bid on it until the last couple of seconds and I was pretty convinced my snipe would win. I was out-sniped and gutted, but if I'd had time to react it could have ended up very expensive.

I had to look really hard to assure myself that the last two 1916s on the thread weren't the same coin. You do always seem get them for good prices though, I'll give you that. Gotta love a bargain.

No. But how many 1918 / 1916 half crowns do you own? Why not just buy one good one?

Thanks Peter. It seems odd, to me, that they would choose the lowest denomination. I suppose it's relative to the buying power at the time, and how common the coin was in circulation?

How do you zoom in?

C'mon Garrett, help us rookies out a bit? What makes it suspicious? I can't see anything about it I'm not happy with, although to be fair I've never had one of these in hand. I should be so lucky.

Apology accepted. Seriously though, if it wasn't China it would be somewhere else, and I don't think we can hold you responsible. I think your crown looks genuine, although I'm no expert at all. I hope so anyway, it's a lovely coin.

Do counterfeit farthings exist Colin? Seems a very strange denomination to forge - more trouble than it's worth, surely?

I suppose you've already got one?

There might be if you lot leave anything...

Proof / uncirculated? What would you want for it please?

Do you have a 2009 set Jon?