azda

Loving the little German touch on the Volvo lol

Nothing in the book for prices, was this coin circulated or was it a model as it says and never made? Scarce or not?

I asked because i just bought an AUNC 1817 Halfcrown and its quite dark, here's the pix, until it arrives.

Is a coin that has a dark tone worth any less than a coin say in the same grade but still has no tone or some slight toning? Just curious

Oops, you shouldn't have said anything, Peter. Now you've got competition!! (Don't you just love the "shotgun pellet holes??") Do the Americans have different book prices to us, what a price!!!! http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150410957577

...unless you've already invested in cabinets and albums! (That's what I meant by 'unstorable') Ok, so how much does slabbing cost exactly?

Ha! But it's a smaller market surely? There are such as myself who wouldn't touch them with a bargepole (because 1. I don't want my coins to be in unstorable slabs and 2. I won't pay more just because it's in a slab .. that I don't want!). So you might well get more when you sell on, when you actually find a buyer. I'm with you on the slabs Perckis, i am just curious if you crack one open would it lose value or credibility, has anyone done it?

I have a curious question on slabbed coins. I am not a huge fan of slabbing, i prefer them in my hand and they are easier to store in a coin box etc. I know its all about personal choice, so my question is, if i were to buy a coin that was slabbed and took it out of the slab would that effect its value, i also realise that slabbed coins are somewhat a gaurantee of condition and authenticity, so what is the concencus of opinion on this?

You said above you would START at €300? That implies you were prepared to go higher? For what it's worth, I think it is an attractive coin, so it's really up to you how much you want it. But you may wish to assure yourself it is 20/19 before shelling out your hard-earned. €300 is about £250, which doesn't seem excessive, especially if it turns out to be the rare variety. As for haggling, we can't tell you how to do that. The relationship is between seller and buyer, which is you and he. Well i emailed him and asked him how much he was prepared to come down to firstly, and he replied €360, i have since replied using some of the comments from this thread and said i'd be prepared to go to€300 and that i have bought from him before at a premium. He is a coin dealer so i'm sure he knows it is a 20/19, although its not as visible as some, so we shall see what tomorrow brings. A €100 rebate would be good though :-)

Ok, emailed the dealer and he said he'd take €360, i don't really want to pay more than €300 for it, any suggestions to try and work him down a bit without disrespecting the coin to much lol?

You can certainly see it in the 2nd image, the first image i couldn't see it at all.

I use my Olympus camera with marco and always in daylight, a more natural picture, some of my coins are dotted around the site from my efforts with the Olympus

I can upload some of mine if you like Mark - some of the fields won't mean much to you as they refer to other bits of the database but if you're interested I can talk you through it. Yes please, I'd love to see them. Mark, try as I might, and ZIP as I might, I can't anything useful down to the 150k upload limit. Can I email it to you? cheers Declan I have just downloaded a coin manager file from the t'internet, gonna give it a whirl and see how it goes

Lol, ganz genau Chris, wie geht es Ihnen?

If i were you i'd keep them, can you post any pictures of them?

Condition will be everything thing but the mexican 50 peso, there is a "buy it now" on ebay for $1495 and the liberty head 20$ dollar from $1200 to $2500. If you are thinking of selling them, coins of that value need specialise advice. Gary Also what you might consider is the gold weight 1 ounce equals 31.1g so what you have is over an ounce, i don't know the exact price of gold at the minute but an ounce is certainly over €1000 at the minute, perhaps near €1100, so the Double Gold Eagle is worth about €1300/€1400 in gold content alone

I thought the reverse would bring it down to a VF

Is it me being a bit fussy or is this really an EF? http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160399302435

1. Most of my better coins are in three cabinets : one fairly large, one small, and one tiny. The proof sets and modern RM issues are stored loosely (the packaging keeps them away from the atmosphere). Coin albums are a decent alternative, so are 2" coin flips, just make sure they aren't PVC. General principles : keep coins in a dry, salt-free environment - if any hint of dampness, use packets of silica gel near the coins and reheat them fairly regularly. 2. For general identification and valuing of British coins : Spink's "Standard Catalogue" published annually, but Chris Perkins' "Coin Collectors GB" series is great value for coins from 1797 on. Reference : Peck (copper and bronze), Freeman (Bronze), Gouby (bronze pennies), ESC (silver milled), Davies (silver varieties from 1816). If you need those names expanding, just shout. 3. Since 1994 I've developed my own bespoke series of related database files in FileMaker Pro - this has evolved into a pretty awesome set of applications if I say so myself! Scanned coins appear in the master records; I have a comparative set of coin prices from 1966; I can interrogate auction lots to see when sales plus purchases for me go into an overall profit; I can see coins bought by year, by supplier, by location, by value, by reign, etc etc; I can input prices annually and perform a set of calculations for all coins including mid-grade items, to update the values; I can print out tables in many many ways; that's just for starters. However, you can get by with any database manager to get you started. The fields you should start with : Date, Denomination, Reign, (Metal), Condition, Variety, Price paid, Where bought, Date bought, Current value, Quantity, Location (storage), Date sold/disposed, Price realised, To whom.. You will also need a general Comments field (or more than one), and maybe you might wish to record the legend? You don't actually need a Database Manager tool to start with - you could start a simple coin organiser using e.g. Excel spreadsheet. These can be imported later into a DM with the column headers > Fields, and the rows > records. There are probably off-the-shelf coin applications - I bought one back in my PC days, and I will just say this : however well-written they are, there WILL come the day when it can't do what you want, and then you're stuck. Peckris, we had quite a debate recently about the values of coins in the Spink book etc, so who's values do you use when inputting your data in this huge database you have, just a curious question lol?

Rob's reply shows just how subjective this issue is. Though one thing we'd all agree on at the outset : you can forget what sellers on eBay say (I think you already have those sussed out!) I would personally say that a coin that numbers in the hundreds, is very rare. So might the average collector, trying to chase down a 1934 Crown (hundreds minted). There are so many imponderables, it isn't true: 1. Popularity : a 1919KN penny is scarce only really, but is highly popular, so could be advertised as "rare" 2. Comparative mintages : a 1940 "single exergue line" penny is common, but accounts for only 1 in 20 of the usual, and even scarcer in BU; it is therefore comparatively rare only; similarly with 1957 "calm sea" halfpennies. 3. Condition : some common coins become genuinely scarce in BU (1954 halfcrowns) or rare (most Edward VII halfcrowns). Some scarce coins (1926ME pennies) are unimaginably rare in BU, likewise Cartwheel twopences. 4. Varieties : range from barely scarce (1902LT pennies) to incredibly rare (1862 pennies with die numbers) - popularity generally determines how the rarity level will be described That's only scratching the surface. As far as challenging dealers is concerned, you'd be hard put to find valid grounds, for the reason that "rarity" is subjective and you couldn't build a legal case on it. Only if the rarity description implied it was a variety which it turned out not to be (for example "rare variety of 1926 penny", when it wasn't an ME), might you have a case. I'd judge a coin sale on precise identification, condition, appearance, and price. General description wouldn't move me one jot. Maybe we could open up a new thread and start listing scarce or rare varities types that we could look out for?

Hello, and welcome to the forum and back to collecting. Firstly i am relatively new to collecting compared to others, so my answers are only what i do. For storage of my coins i keep them in plastic caps and in a presentation box, maybe because i don't have so many, whether this may be the right method or not i've no idea. I use the Spink book and also the CCGB book which this websites owner wrote as guide prices for value. Personally i don't catalogue my coins right now as i don't have enough to merit this, maybe further down the line i would perhaps make an excel list of what the coin is and how much i paid and spink number and so on, i do however photograph all my coins. I hope this helps, but i'm sure someone else might correct me about my method of storage, who knows.

Wow. Never heard of that before, is that for real ? Where can you buy it - Middle Earth ? No, America lol

Only my opinion, but if they are only fillers and you didn't pay to much why bother toning them down? Azda, You can buy a Bronze / Copper retoner called Deller's Darkener. It will retone shiney B/C coins. Practice on some old coins first though. <ggggg>. Would that be considered "cleaning" a coin though?

Because they stand out like sore thumbs laid out next to their filthy neighbours! Lol, nice, polish the neighbours ;-) (Just kidding)

Only my opinion, but if they are only fillers and you didn't pay to much why bother toning them down?