Gary

Hi Darren, looks fine to me. I have had a look at other 1877 6D on the internet and can see nothing odd with the date on the one you have posted. Have a look at Johns site, http://www.argentumandcoins.co.uk/ (hope Chris does not mind the link!), he has two 1877's on offer and the date looks exactly the same.

On that note, there are some listed on ebay that state they are made from 'furniture board'. Not sure if this is mdf or something else, but proper mahogany trays are tried and tested and safe. MDF is not recommended for coins of any value as we don't know the long term effects of the glues etc that are used in manufacture. I had my cabinet made by Peter Nichols, but they can also be picked up at auction, though that way you have less choice about the size of the various holes. But a bit cheaper. I guessed that from a picture you posted on another thread! There's something instantly recognisable about the wood he uses, then there's those red felt inserts... I have two of 'em. St Leonards on Sea, isn't he? Or something like that. Yes Peck 2 Norman rd, St Leonards on Sea, East Sussex, TN37 6NH www.coincabinets.com I think I remember him telling me that he does not make them personally anymore but his name is still on them.

Normally I would agree with you choolie but crowns in VF and above kind of overstep my budget! I have most of the crowns post 1818 except the Proofs, 1847 Young Head, a few of the old heads and the only Wreath I have is the 1928. Just thought it would be nice to try and get a few earlier examples staying in budget of cause which this one did.

Already have Peter it's sitting on my desk next to me and yes for me it has eye appeal. I am pleased with it and that is the main thing.

Hi, do you still have the commonwealth sixpence for sale? Darren Hi Robbie, any Crowns left?

EF it is then So my initial grading was right on the button . Thank you all for your input. Up to now my main area has been copper and bronze but have decided to venture into crowns, very nice and chunky even in low grades. I just love the toning on some of these 200-300 year old coins and no problems with verdigris However thr prices are a bit restricting!

Thats interesting Colin. I did not know these things exsisted. Thanks for the info.

Darren, post better pics of the maundy sets and the envelope and we will let you know our verdict on the grade. I suspect they are better than VF.

the 1/2d coin looks like the center section of the Model Halfpenny F804-10. It seems the size is right, the obv is right however the rev is wrong.

and the Rev.

Just want an opinion on the grade of this coin. It is a 1679 crown which is not in my area of expertise. If it was a post 1799 coin then I would grade it as Fair but having looked around a few dealers sites for comparision I am inclined to grade it as Fine. Opinions from the experts wanted please. As far as I can tell it is the Fourth Bust. Edge date TRICESIMO PRIMO

I have seen many silver coins that look like this, all in low grade, it is nothing unusual.

My input Group A, Coin 1. 1919KN penny, grade F Group B, there seems to be a complete 1897 Maundy set in there 1d, 2d, 3d and 4d (coins 3,4,7,12). All of them look to be of the same toning. Value for a set in EF condition would be around £70. Group C. (9) 1724 Dump Halfpenny, Grade nearly F (16) Silver Diamond Jubilee Medal 25mm worth approx £25 maybe more for collectors in this year of QEII diamond jubilee. Group D. (4) German 1 Pfennig coin, looks like 1889 cannot make out the mint mark but worth no more than a couple of £'s

give me an evenly toned milk chocolate colour any time! I cannot imagine a coin toning naturally in that way.

Like this shilling Nice toning

a glitch with Kapersky I think. Now solved and not showing up any more

Looks fine to me and I dont mean the grade. A nice 1902 Shilling. I would grade it as NEF maybe EF, might get shot down on that though . Hard to tell if it has been dipped but if it has been then it was a long time ago. For some, dipping of silver coins is acceptable although still a Controversial topic. My personal stand on this is a coin with considerable wear (below EF) which is shiney just does not look right. A nicely toned coin is for me more attractive.

Just come onto the forum and my Anti virus program, Kapersky Internet Security, pipes up with this warning "Detected going to dangerous URL:http://googlead.g.doubleclick.net/pagead/ads". This message pops up every time I change pages within the forum but does not appear on other internet pages, ebay etc. Is anyone else having similar problems?

I second this, Dereks book is excellent and well worth the money. I too regularly get it off the shelf.

PVC envelopes have a bad reputation due to the fact that when they were first introduced they contained a chemical to make them soft and pliable. The problem was this chemical reacted with the coins and accelerated the the occurance of verdigris on any coin containing copper. These days good quailty envelopes are free of these chemicals but the reputation lives on. 2" by 2" paper envelopes are prefered for long time storage but have the disadvantage in that you must remove the coin to view it. As for self adesive coin flips one would think that this is the best option as the coin is isolated from the enviroment and you can also see the coin without having to touch it. In my experience these too are not ideal. I have had coins in these for up to 15 years and I have to say that even these do not stop uncirculated coins from toning! The main thing is to store coins in a dry and chemical free enviroment. The main enemy of metal is moisture!

Welcome to the Forum and welcome to the hobby. A lot of sound advice has already been given so what can I add? From the coin pics that you have already posted it seems that you are going down the bronze coin route so if this is a correct assumption then I recommend a copy of "The Bronze Coinage of Great Britain" by Michael J.Freeman. A very good reference book for bronze coins 1860-1970. Also this forum has a lot of very knowledgeable members in this area so any questions just ask away.

excellent

1366x768 looks like the one to use. It appears to be the native size of the display and gives the same aspect ratio as full HD (1920x1080). Wide screen aspect ratio is normally 16:9 so resolution 1366x768 will work. Some screens are 16:10 which would be an aspect ratio of 1366x850 and as that is not an selectable option 1366x768 is the one to use. As this is a new laptop then the drivers should be suitable and do not need to be messed with.

Peter, if I could have done something like that for CSE metalwork I might have passed

It was bought from america and the seller seems to only sell coins and stamps. As I understand it there is a difference in the grading system used in the US but surely it cant be that way out. Obviously I did not buy it as EF and if no one has spotted it they are the Modified Effigy.