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Chris Perkins

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Everything posted by Chris Perkins

  1. Other countries have used a double headed eagle too. I can't find an example that looks just like the reverse.
  2. It's a German made brass Jeton isn't it? I don't quite know the significance of the double headed eagle (apart from the obvious fact that Victoria was related to most other European Royal familes).
  3. I don't think that's VF Azda! Looks around fine - a £20 coin really. Better, cropped pictures would of course assist.
  4. In average used condition they are worth much less than £1. Yours is really only a couple of pence for the scrap copper content (the copper that hasn't completely corroded away!). But, interesting that it was found on the Mersey and not on the Indus!
  5. More like GVF really, some would say NEF. For EF on those you'd expect perhaps the last remnants of lustre (if you're lucky) and much better sharper squared off edges with less marks as well and just a little more detail. The thick rims protect the designs to some degree, which is why they often look very good. Cartwheels are hard to grade, I've always found that! And the price drops quickly down the grades, as you've probably noticed. No reason to beleive it isn't genuine though.
  6. Ah yes, I should have spotted that as I've sold a couple of Baroda, Indore and Outdore (sorry) coins on ebay recently!
  7. Of course you can Rose, as long as it's your factual opinion and not too nasty/libelous towards the seller....unless the seller's identity is well hidden, in which case you can probably be as frank as you like!
  8. Yes, I was pretty sure the medalet was the cheaper one, especially at the grade isn't too amazing. Cooke's estimated P680 (which I think I saw on their website)? Did it sell? I suppose I better offer the seller £200 for the p680. I'll probably leave the medalet as he'd paid way too high for it. Thanks.
  9. Looks like some kind of Thai language to me....certainly that area of asia. Blimey it could even be hebrew or god knows what! Size and style though would imply that it's probably 19th century or even 20th century.
  10. Yup, I need price data for each denomination based on recent sales, dealer lists and a lot of instinct! I personally think you'd be pretty well qualified for the job Peck.
  11. Do any of you farthing boys know the (rough) realistic retail prices for: a ) A William III 1698 pattern fathing in silver, Peck 680 (grades EF). B ) William and Mary pattern farthing/medalet in silver. Small busts, King on one side, Queen on the other. Legend GULIELMUS . III . DEI . GRA. Similar to the uncertain pieces listed in Peck at the end of Wm and Mary section, but it has no specific number (grades around F). Thanks.
  12. I don't see much sense naming and shaming ebay ID's, not because of legalities but simply because there will always be more 'shady' characters that we can possibly list and any that we do list can of course set up a new account with a different name in a matter of minutes. I'm sure some hardcore fraudsters do that as a matter of course. There are some bad eggs but generally I find coin buyers are a very reliable bunch. Much more so that car buyers (I've dabbled).
  13. Don't know why Amazon would offer a refund....it's coming, eventually! Kind of help: basically the helpers will need to feel confident updating the prices for their chosen denomination. Not just a few, but all of them. This can be as simple as penciling small prices in an existing book or can be as technical as an excel file with Freeman/ESC etc numbers, grades, values. As long I can understand it and incorporate the data into the book! Gold is taken care of already. Crowns are pretty easy as there are relatively few of them. Peck down for Half Crowns and pennies? Going back further is also a good idea. And I think i can now probably remove post 1970 as Check Your Change covers all those.
  14. I know it really belongs in the foreign section but New Zealand does share our Queen and in this case also our designer, who has been mentioned elsewhere recently. From the collection of the late William Gardner (he did the EII shillings, portcullis 3d, 1982-2008 20p and many other commonwealth coins by the way) comes this large electrotype NZ Dollar. This design was used on the first NZ dollar for decimalisation in 1967. Size: 18cm Weight: 362g Any thoughts on exactly what this is? In the first image it is shown next to an actual 1967 Dollar.
  15. For centuries to come! It's a bloody piss take really isn't it. The monster coins will trade around the bullion value for centuries to come. Maybe one day the intrinsic value might actually be more than what they are charging for them. I'll create another thread for my shield back NZ dollar and perhaps the members can speculate on why it was made etc. It could just be a keep sake for the designer.
  16. A kilo coin will give the RM plenty of space to show off another cheap and nasty loosly Olympic related design to go with the other 84! I can hardly wait. I also have (also originating from William Gardner) a trial design NZ Dollar electrotype shield back reverse....that is 18.5cm in diameter. The design was actually used but I don't know exactly at which stage or for what purpose this plate sized 'coin' was used. Pleased you like the 20p!
  17. I'm still behind. Feb is probably unrealistic now I'm afraid. I will be asking for help (perhaps putting a different member on each denomination so that all I have to do is change the book, rather than search, collate etc) in the 2012 edition.
  18. The London Coin fair (Holiday Inn, Coram Street). I share a table with a friend, have done for 5+ years. And also within 5 mins I'd sold 66% of the days takings to 3 quite well known dealers. That's the way it always goes.
  19. Technically it's a uniface lead 20p struck on very thick blank with no collar and with writen RM verification! Probably unique. I didn't get it for face value! I think I'll just hang onto it for the moment. I can picture and feature it in the next Check Your Change, although, like you say Del it is not really a coin as such but is certainly a pattern of sorts - part of the design process and an interesting insight into early 1980s coin production.
  20. This one has to be worth a new topic. I'm back from England recently after doing a coin fair and buying some stuff. The highlight of the things purchased is this thick 1982 20p trial in lead. It comes with 2 latex impressions and a letter dated 1981 from the Royal Mint to William Gardner who was the designer of the 20p (and numerous other British/Commonwealth coins). Mr Gardner sadly passed away a few years ago and this was purchased from his son.
  21. Or there's my book (Collectors' Coins GB) shown on amzon via the links below or the pictures above on the main forum page. It covers from 1797 onwards and is great value. Personally my instict says that you'd be lucky to raise £70-£100 for them (50p per coin average would be incredibly lucky). And, on rotographic.com near the bottom of the home page you can download the 2005 version of my book for free as a PDF....outdated, but better than nothing.
  22. An obvious electrotype. I suspect if you look around the rim it will have the appearance of being 2 coins stuck together....because it is.
  23. I visited a public toilet in France once and that seemed pretty third world. But even if the risk is with the purchaser, it doesn't stop them ripping the money out of your hands through paypal! I use common sense based on a mental value/place/buyer feedback/history with buyer equation, as to whether I send recorded or take a chance.
  24. It's a fairly common problem with those (I mention it in my book Check Your Change). There are also other £1 and £2 that have problems with R's and certain other letters. I get contacted fairly often by people that have 1 or more of the PEMEMBEP coins. Unless it's in perfect condition it probably has no value over the face value. Either keep it as an interesting thing, or spend it.
  25. I'll leave it on the item. In a few days it'll all be over and forgotten.
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