Coinery

A very interesting contemporary counterfeit Elizabeth I shilling here. It rings convincingly, is appropriately thin, and is hammered from home-fashioned dies! It's very well done, and a happy addition for me! Some of the issues: Lions and Lis (and, of course, letters) are not to type for TUN and are primitive. The bust is an attempt at Bust 3A (with some decent detailing, such as veil pointing at the forehead, and decent replication in hairlines and embroidery), which never of course appeared on the TUN coinage. The nose and other facial features are missing on account of a gouge, which isn't so clear in the image. It's around 1 gram under weight, but not so shocking a difference, given the grade. Cost me as much as the genuine article, wasn't expecting that!

Yes, but neither an artwork nor an antique is housed in a plastic slab, which was my point. Unless you're Damien Hurst, of course!

Greater knowledge leads only to greater questions!

That's where they're at for me!

Ahh, now once again, you see, this is where I come unstuck with the phone, which I'm back on now, after only just managing to upload the image link from Rubbish-bucket before flattening the battery...a totally wasted hour trying to upload images, and I didn't even fully succeed!! Time to look for a new image host I think! Will definitely check out the https one recommended earlier!

Just spent about an hour trying to get these onto photo-Bucket! I was wondering about the obverse mark, what do you think? It looks as possible an overmark on your obverse too? I'm not completely sure, would be good to have the full res images of this coin too, as my '66 PC obverse may be the same die as your's. I even thought the reverse might be too, just for a small while! Whoops! Thought that was resized! There is definitely something wrong with PB, I've uploaded images that show in the number count, but aren't displaying in my library...so I can't add the reverse tonight, sorry!

I've never seen one finer! If only to stick to examples like that, I'd only have about 4 in my collection! I will always remember where I've seen the finest sixpence of its rare type! Well done for plucking that one! If you die before me, can you let someone know I'd like to have it! Can I have some high-res images? PLEASE! Lol, someone's got the 'I wants' ! Loveliest sixpence I've seen in ages! Would be amazing for any MM but, a considerably rarer type as well, you'll not see a comparable example! ! I can't even conceive of a better one! Eye-wateringly pretty! I have a hunch that Rob's collection is full of such exemplary pieces! What's great about coins like this, is the detail you don't ordinarily get to see on lesser examples, such as the broken shield punch, showing as a fracture in the top right corner! I want to chop that shield out! It's also the rarest of the acorn die-pairings according to BCW, as if being a nice coin wasn't enough! I'm sure if you ask Rob nicely he will send you other pics of his Lizzy I coins, then you will really be in trouble!!! Yes, too many coins and not enough time to chop!

I've never seen one finer! If only to stick to examples like that, I'd only have about 4 in my collection! I will always remember where I've seen the finest sixpence of its rare type! Well done for plucking that one! If you die before me, can you let someone know I'd like to have it! Can I have some high-res images? PLEASE! Lol, someone's got the 'I wants' ! Loveliest sixpence I've seen in ages! Would be amazing for any MM but, a considerably rarer type as well, you'll not see a comparable example! ! I can't even conceive of a better one! Eye-wateringly pretty! I have a hunch that Rob's collection is full of such exemplary pieces! What's great about coins like this, is the detail you don't ordinarily get to see on lesser examples, such as the broken shield punch, showing as a fracture in the top right corner! I want to chop that shield out! It's also the rarest of the acorn die-pairings according to BCW, as if being a nice coin wasn't enough!

I've never seen one finer! If only to stick to examples like that, I'd only have about 4 in my collection! I will always remember where I've seen the finest sixpence of its rare type! Well done for plucking that one! If you die before me, can you let someone know I'd like to have it! Can I have some high-res images? PLEASE! Lol, someone's got the 'I wants' ! Loveliest sixpence I've seen in ages! Would be amazing for any MM but, a considerably rarer type as well, you'll not see a comparable example! ! I can't even conceive of a better one! Eye-wateringly pretty!

Thanks, Rob! That really is a very special coin!

I've never seen one finer! If only to stick to examples like that, I'd only have about 4 in my collection! I will always remember where I've seen the finest sixpence of its rare type! Well done for plucking that one! If you die before me, can you let someone know I'd like to have it! Can I have some high-res images? PLEASE!

A PROPER one! Not too many Oak Nut coins in that condition! I take it that one won't be hitting your site?

I use chrome, and I haven't found the new PB user friendly at all...much preferred the old version for my uses! Does anyone know of a similar photo storage facility that uses https instead of http? PayPal apparently don't display your logo on their payments pages, unless they are linked to on an https server????

Totally agree! It's impossible to not just read VF, the psychology of it is just too much...especially so if you've sent the raw coin off! It would make good business sense for CGS to make this change (maybe one for you to feed back, Bill?)! My point being, would Paulus use CGS again? Would I? CGS won't have compromised their tough standards in adopting the above suggestion!

If you're thinking milled coins, rather than hammered, I'd go for a monarch set, G6/G5 would give you plenty of experience in .925/.500 silver, copper and brass. Both monarch's are very affordable for most of their coins, and it's always best to make your inevitable mistakes on coins that have cost you very little! There's plenty of scope for grading experience with all the various busts and weaknesses with G5, and also an opportunity to actually get a reasonably-sized collection going quite quickly and cheaply with G6. Another 'older' period that's largely affordable are the G3 coins! My own interest is in Elizabeth I, who can be collected in low-grade fairly cheaply, as can the Edward hammered pennies (a lifetime of learning with these). Whatever you decide to go for, buy the best reference books on the area! Anyone on here can advise you on that once you're ready! Also, there's around 10 year's worth of excellent reading material on this forum, and I can't recommend enough that you sit down for a couple of evenings with a bottle of wine (or three), and go through some of it! Welcome aboard, and enjoy!

If they're going on the 'bay, you could do a lot worse than BIN & BO! You can sit them on eBay for a year for under a fiver! The right buyer will turn up before then! That's where I have knowledge, and where I am leaning, for coins £100-£400 anyway, I think the effective 15% or so sellers' premium and 0% buyers' premium swings it, will ensure it is open to eBay.com too, it's only a few pence ...and if you get an eBay shop for £15 a month, each coin is only 10p every 30 days. I think we're all overgraders now. And that calculates out at a break-even price on 50 coins listed. For every coin listed over the 50 you save 30p per coin! A decent saving if you're listing up on the hundred coins +

Absolutely right, insured postage too! Me too, though it's only 5% in Paulus's neck 'o' the woods! Good old Croydon Auctions, their website is a bit rubbish though! When is the next auction?? Their site IS rubbish, they never update it, and auction dates are very last minute! I generally email them, much easier! Very easy to get caught out with their ambitious grading, so I'd never buy on description from them. However, they're great for a few bargains if you're on the floor!

Would be worth reading seuk's website, especially if you're going to be buying a lot of G3 silver! He's got a few threads on this site re the identification of contemporary counterfeits! Worth having that information up your sleeve! There's also a few G3 halfcrown threads that are enlightening, if you can find them.

Absolutely right, insured postage too! Me too, though it's only 5% in Paulus's neck 'o' the woods!

If they're going on the 'bay, you could do a lot worse than BIN & BO! You can sit them on eBay for a year for under a fiver! The right buyer will turn up before then!

I should also mention that I stand beside a running tap, and the second the solution colours red, it's in the water...so it's in contact with the solution for maybe 2-3 seconds at most! You absolutely cannot tell where it's been, not on ANY of the coins I've tested in the past, at least! But, as I say, I have only ever used the edges, and always decontaminated the surface first with a bit of acetone!

You've got in there before me! I personally would recommend a pinhead spot to the edge, even the edge of hammered coins offer up a wide enough surface to 'touch' a tiny bit of the solution onto it! However, your example certainly proves the point! Interestingly, you'll find .500 silver won't react, the solution will stay yellow, so very useful for identifying the coins from the .925/.500 crossover. It's found out a few counterfeits for me, I swear by it, if used intelligently! Most coins can be determined genuine or fake by many other means, but for those nagging pieces, it certainly concludes one way or the other for you! The only problem I've come across with it, is you can't tell a seller that their coin's a fake because it doesn't test positive for high-grade silver...once they have evidence you've been slapping acid on their coin (even though you know the coin is unharmed), your case is over, so bear that in mind!

You've got in there before me! I personally would recommend a pinhead spot to the edge, even the edge of hammered coins offer up a wide enough surface to 'touch' a tiny bit of the solution onto it! However, your example certainly proves the point! Interestingly, you'll find .500 silver won't react, the solution will stay yellow, so very useful for identifying the coins from the .925/.500 crossover. It's found out a few counterfeits for me, I swear by it, if used intelligently! Most coins can be determined genuine or fake by many other means, but for those nagging pieces, it certainly concludes one way or the other for you! The only problem I've come across with it, is you can't tell a seller that their coin's a fake because it doesn't test positive for high-grade silver...once they have evidence you've been slapping acid on their coin (even though you know the coin is unharmed), your case is over, so bear that in mind!

I think their strictness could well have the reverse effect than that intended : as a result of how they graded your coins there is absolutely no way I would ever risk sending any of my best coins to them, to be marked down in the same way. So if I was ever likely to reverse my attitude to slabbing, there is now no way I would do so. I believe I can grade quite well, and I find I am very often in agreement with Derek (who wrote the book). I must admit, it's a bit galling to have some coins I admire, bought for my collection as EF and at EF prices, to be graded as VF, knowing that they would almost certainly be graded as EF once again by many dealers and sellers as raw coins! Some of the coins in this batch were sold to me by very highly respected dealers at a grade or more higher than CGS have given. The jury is still out for me, but their apparent over-strictness and unwillingness to move with the times a bit is certainly a double-edged sword at best! I am also a fan of Derek's grading, in my few dealings to date I had to break 3 coins back out of the slabs CGS delivered to me! I just couldn't swallow the grades and/or valuations! It sounds like you may be doing something similar? Did they value them favourably overall? Most CGS buyers will take a look at the UIN to check out the valuation on the CGS website, and you can be sure you'll be getting under that, even before selling fees!

Welcome aboard, Nek, plenty to learn here on this forum for all of us! 1) not all private sellers are unscrupulous. Some have their own reasons, and some are just, well, private! There are bargains to be had from genuine sellers who are private! However, maybe give them a pass if you are uncomfortable with it! 2) you've only got to unluckily bump into a couple of arses on eBay to get 95%, might be better to look at the big picture, namely, their full trading history, before writing off more potential bargains! 10) definitely wrong here I personally think! Take a look at www.quicktest.co.uk I have confirmed and reassured myself on endless occasions re the authenticity of coins, using their products, WITHOUT as much as a trace noticeable of damage to the edge! We're not talking the Crippen Test here! I'll put up some before and after pictures over the next couple of days, just to clear up the acid misunderstanding! I rate it as highly as the scales on the occasions where it's called into service. I would suggest around 2 in 100 for me, as I get more and more comfortable with what constitutes a genuine coin! Enjoy the ride, it's a great forum! Thanks mate, I just tried to be the most conservative in purchase since I've got almost no experience yet For the acid test, most articles said No; however, as an engineer and newbie I did order the test solution and some scrap silver. I plan to file on the groove of rim to do some test - then I could see the real damage - the online vid and pictures are not good for me (poor eyesight!) Top tip...don't use the file! You'll get the information you're looking for with just a tiny micro-dab from the applicator directly onto the decontaminated edge! Please don't use the file...I'll get that post up over the next few day! Ps: the filing bit it to determine whether something has been plated or not! With coins, particularly past a certain age, the plating is obvious, and not something you'd even need to waste a spot of test-solution on!