Peckris

It's just that I'm looking at the first '1' in the date, which clearly has a serif at the bottom, which would make overdating with a '2' particularly simple at that point. There would be no need for an extra portion of downstroke, wouldn't you say?

Too much 'gunk' there to see anything clearly scott The off-putting bit is that horizontal 'spur' to the left halfway down the diagonal downstroke of the 2 - it doesn't correspond to anything you'd see on a '1' Also, the bottom of the '1' would be horizontal not vertical, surely?

I just WISH I could still use a camera in the fiddly way required to photograph coins. Unfortunately, the picture above is an original scan (modest size), brightened and then enlarged greatly in Photoshop. Not a recipe for a 'phwoar'!! I just wish you could see the coin as it really is

Crickey, no wonder you hit the road, Declan! What, breaking it up without the need for drills??

I know nothing at all about decimal coinage, but an undated £2 coin is likely to be of great interest, can you put any pictures up? Hi their, thanks for the reply. I have attached a photo and the date would be at the bottom but as you can see it's just blank. Many thanks. Looked at images via Google and my own estimation is that the date section has been carved out post-production. There should be a 'forged plate' motif connected by chain links and at the same height. However, there is a rectangular 'hole' there instead, as if cut out. Thanks for taking the time to reply. I have posted another photo and I think that you see from this one that the 'forge plate is connected to the links and at the same height. Any other thoughts would be much appreciated. Cheers Unfortunately your picture is too out of focus to see the detail clearly.

Just for reference, a high grade example looks like this:

No. You can't get anything extra from dipping apart from reduced value

I know nothing at all about decimal coinage, but an undated £2 coin is likely to be of great interest, can you put any pictures up? Hi their, thanks for the reply. I have attached a photo and the date would be at the bottom but as you can see it's just blank. Many thanks. Looked at images via Google and my own estimation is that the date section has been carved out post-production. There should be a 'forged plate' motif connected by chain links and at the same height. However, there is a rectangular 'hole' there instead, as if cut out.

No apology required - your image fills my browser page, no problem. Colin probably couldn't post his as it was way oversize.

Apologies - some of you will remember I said this before already.. but Format Coins in Birmingham where I used to buy coins in the 1990s, have got out of the English market entirely due to Chinese forgeries, and now concentrate exclusively on foreign coins. Truly scary.

If you go to the Beginners Forum, and look at the 'pinned' topic "Posting Pictures" there's a lot of advice in there about getting your picture down to a postable size.

Very interesting Nick! It's not at all obvious until you show that overlay. One less mystery in the penny series. So Peck's 'footnote' should really have been a thigh note?

1. As you type into the text box, you will notice under it a blue Attachments banner. Click 'Choose File' and navigate to where the picture is on your computer 2. Having selected it, click the dark blue 'Attach This File' button, and wait for it to be uploaded 3. Then click the 'Add to Post' button which appears when it's been uploaded. That puts the code into the text box for the attachment 4. Then just 'Add Reply' as per usual. Of course, your picture must not be greater than 150k but I've explained how to achieve that many many times and there's now a Sticky to that effect in the Beginners forum! ------ Incidentally, your analysis of dodgy 1905 halfcrowns won't apply to anything VF or less where the I of QVI has worn away.

I'm not familiar with the type, but looking at the legend lettering and lustre, my gut instinct tells me it is a lot better than VF. EF minimum would be my guess. The funny thing is the Dealer at the Brocanté was lauging at me, he made a joke saying what was I doing with all the coins i buy from him! "putting them in slot machines" whos lauging now :lol:

I'm not familiar with the type, but looking at the legend lettering and lustre, my gut instinct tells me it is a lot better than VF. EF minimum would be my guess.

When I said "not quite as common as the toothed border variety", I meant "beaded border" of course - yours is the toothed border.

There's very few 1970s cars that DOESN'T apply to! Datsuns and Italian cars arguably worse than even British. My 2nd car, in 1981, was a 70s Alfasud. The Alfa's and Lancia's of the time were total rust buckets. My 3rd car was an old 1968 Porsche 911, very solid and well rust-proofed. No room in the back, but I didn't have kids then! I currently have an Italian car, but that's mainly aluminium bodied I had a 944, so back seats of a sort. We've got a Smart now so no room for the 18 year old in the back of that either. Mind you it's hard enough to get him to sit in the front as well. Do they supply a free tin opener with it?

There's very few 1970s cars that DOESN'T apply to! Datsuns and Italian cars arguably worse than even British.

I'm sure you've told us before Dave, but how do you see the identities of 'private bidders'? Also, I can never quite understand things like this : £222 29-May-13 17:22:23 BST £25 29-May-13 18:27:39 BST How does a later bid of £25 even register, when an earlier bid jumped it up to £222 ? Because the earlier bid of £222.22 only had to beat a bid of £7.77, so was winning at £8.27. Then another bid came in at £25.88, which was immediately beaten by the £222.22 bid, which was then winning at £26.88. So why don't they show the £8:27 bid, they do usually I think? Otherwise it looks ridiculous. Or at least, adjust the timings so it looks like a proper auction. After all, if an auctioneer has a commission bid on his books, he keeps going up against the floor until one or other of them drops out, but if commission wins it, he doesn't show the timing of the bid as "two days before", or whenever the commission bid arrived with the house - it's the time of the sale.

Consulting Freeman's book, I would say that it is obverse 4 + reverse B, not quite as common as the toothed border variety, but not rare in that grade. In my estimation, it is not worth more than a few pounds, between £5 - £10.

I stand corrected Dave - 1922 penny on ebay- meant to bid on this but forgot. Flaw on both neck and ear are in the same postion as those on the 1918KN but this is a different obverse die. Must conclude that this micro variety is in fact a result of clashed dies Yes, it looks right for the folds in the drapery between Britannia's thigh and lower leg.

I'm sure you've told us before Dave, but how do you see the identities of 'private bidders'? Also, I can never quite understand things like this : £222 29-May-13 17:22:23 BST £25 29-May-13 18:27:39 BST How does a later bid of £25 even register, when an earlier bid jumped it up to £222 ?

Later years. Avoid pre 1852. Many 1850s onwards, 2nd head 1860s with die numbers, 3rd head 1872, 1873 & 1874. 4th head 1879, 1883 - 1887. The 1839 (WW on neck) is reasonably common and quite affordable.

And milled silver :) And early milled copper :)

So, one obverse and one reverse counts as two separate coins, right? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Group-of-20-George-V-Shillings-between-1928-and-1936-F-VF-EF/161037891999?_trksid=p2047675.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222002%26algo%3DSIC.FIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D11%26meid%3D8158843120578692781%26pid%3D100011%26prg%3D1005%26rk%3D3%26sd%3D111073129303%26