Rob

Not forgetting the eighteen pence, three shillings, and dollar, not to mention broad, angel, unite, and counterstamped "pieces of 8" Mm, I obviously did not think this one fully through, I was trying to make the poll on what I would consider the standard pre-decimal denominations. Maybe this needs a re-think or a new poll? Ideas anyone? How about, "What is your favourite denomination for collecting purposes?" All of them.

Which is precisely why I'm not sure that it is worth ticking every box. When one of the aims of the collection is an example of every denomination, ticking every box above is a given. However, there are a few denominations which don't stretch to 5 different coins such as quarter guineas (2 currency & 1 pattern), one ducat (1), 5 farthings (2), 5 francs international (1), the various testerns or the Scarborough oddballs etc. Of the mainstream denominations though only the quarter guinea would fail to make the list. Even the revalued James 1st hammered gold issues such as the 11s angel have sufficient initial marks and overmarks to make a collection of at least 5 pieces.

That's where the sun don't shine. Oo'er.

Where did this image come from? I will add it to the database or append to an existing entry if I have the image recorded. It's a bit flat, but quite a clean coin if you just want an example. The gold one has been badly tooled, and the attempted piercing(?) doesn't do anything for it either. At least the first gold one would tone down over time.

Absolutely dazzling - literally.

Sorry, you are right. Rauf goes to 7a at Bury, 7b at London. The shape of the R is more akin to the 7a coins illustrated in North which still have reasonable beards. The pellet on the chin comes in 7b, which I assume the blob to be hence the indecision. RAUF or RAULF could well be the same person, as variations in the moneyers' names are encountered from time to time, but there is nothing else listed in North approximating to the ending.

Yes, I've got one who returns every 3 or 4 months and his card fails. Then I'm asked how to make a card payment that works. My reply last time was that he should use a legitimate card and not use the details of a lady in North London as he did on the previous occasion. Not heard from him(?) for a bit.

The problem is that any seller who wants a reasonable return has to overprice in order to recoup the ebay charges. When you are losing 15-20% in fees, it has to be recovered by charging more. If sellers still had the option to bypass Paypal, it would be possible to reduce the charges and so lower prices to the buyer. Many of my sales and purchases on eBay have ended up outside of eBay and Paypal, even with my first transaction with a buyer or seller Once a negotiation starts, it becomes immediately obvious that it would be mutually beneficial to cut eBay and PayPal out of the equation (once you have established some trust!). EBay hate it of course, but there are ways and means that are not complicated, and the best thing is it builds you an invaluable network of trusted contacts for repeat business! So I think you may want to experiment with the Bay Rob, see what you think! I used to. I stopped when they made accepting Paypal obligatory. Having previously had a fallout with them which ended up at the ombudsman and me a few hundred pounds richer, it was a decision that I was never going to rescind. eBay's policy of buyer good, seller bad is hardly welcoming, and to ensure you get a fair return, you need to start above £1 which means people ignore the listing. On balance, the hassle of listing for a week or ten days, but not selling because you aren't offering the item on a 99% discount is unattractive.

Neither an accurate nor an honest description. Still some mugs who see the word "gold" and trip over their brain cell in a rush to reach their wallet though (yes, I know I used cell in the singular) Saxby's always been easy to spot from afar and thus easy to avoid. The on screen portrayal may have changed over the years, but the undesirability of what's on offer hasn't.

The problem is that any seller who wants a reasonable return has to overprice in order to recoup the ebay charges. When you are losing 15-20% in fees, it has to be recovered by charging more. If sellers still had the option to bypass Paypal, it would be possible to reduce the charges and so lower prices to the buyer.

On the basis of the obverse letter R I think we are looking at a class 7 here, but which sub-group I don't know. 7b is a possibility with the pellet on the chin. That doesn't answer your question as this moneyer struck at both London & Bury mints from class 6c-7b and presumably transferred on a regular basis as required. I think we can eliminate Rauf at Winchester who struck in class 5.

The problem is that almost everything is described as EF - UNC with BIN prices to match. If the items were BIN or best offer then you could put in a reasonable bid, but with only a BIN you don't want to buy something whether the seller offers returns or not. Nobody is going to pay £315 for a VF 1806 no berries halfpenny. Even moving the decimal point one place is too much to pay, but getting rid of the 3 is a possibility.

Actually, there was a bit more which ran over onto page two of my archived document. As you clearly don't have a clue how to identify a proof coin and don't seem to be able to take on board advice when given, I despair. It is also obvious that you struggle with some of the more elementary aspects of numismatics such as grading - your Jersey 1/26th shilling described as aUN when in reality it is fair, and your 1896 crown described in similar grade are appalling examples of grading. Everything is UNC if you ignore the wear - which you freely do. I feel obliged to report this as an incorrectly described item given your reluctance to take on board the misleading description. I'm sorry, but I might as well be talking to a Dundee cake. I've reported it, but fat chance there is of anything happening. Remarkably, this person doesn't need to be registered for VAT. Sell one or two coins at those prices and there wouldn't be any option re-VAT. On the plus side, that shows that your average collector is a bit wiser than this seller.

'I'm sorry, but you haven't the slightest idea what you are talking about. What you have written is complete nonsense. You need a copy of the standard reference English Copper, Tin and Bronze Coins in the British Museum 1558-1958. Douglas Saville in Reading has a copy available for £95 on his website. Buy it, read it and then you will be equipped to discuss whether you have a proof or not. One of the benefits you will gain is the ability to differentiate between leaves and berries. You will also find which coin types have which die axis. You will discover that with the exception of one die where the ship has nearly worn away, all have a ship. You will discover that there are 9 types of bronzed proof listed by Peck in the book. You will find that the garbage you have written about the proofs being melted down and being unique is complete tosh. You will find which type of edge the various proofs and currency coins have. You will also find that the obverse of your coin matches the normal currency die characteristics and is nothing like the detail found on the proofs. What you have is a VF currency coin with 10 leaves and no berries. I collect George III pattern and proof halfpennies. Do everyone a favour and revise the listing to reflect what you are selling. There is a danger that an inexperienced collector may buy this in the misguided belief that they have a proof and will be about £300 out of pocket thanks to your deception.'

I've had a reply of sorts. There are within a mintage two type of coins. Normally, the presses mint the coins for circulation. However, within the quantities minted, there are certain items (analysis) which are extremely brilliant uncirculated, on both sides, with are put a side and designed as Proofs, and values will be increased with an eye on profit and interested collectors. Long type ago, the mints were using the word Proof inserted on the coin. However, when sets were solely minted for that effect, due to its limitation (not higher on Proof results) but short on general presentation, they were melted down. Now, regarding the bronzed coin listed above, shall I correct your quote "…no berries…" and clarify that the coin has 10 berries on 'Britannia". Also, there are only a single bronzed Proof coins on 1806. Further more, also unique, the "soho" incuse and a small ship. Nearly identical design on the Farthing. Last, but not least, Penny, 1/2 Penny and Farthing were part of the Fourth Issue uniquely minted by Soho Mint (Birmingham), all coins were minted as die axis. Regards. - yestodtom I have replied correcting each point in turn, finally explaining that I am dealing with a complete twat.

Are you sure those lines aren't on the die. They appear to go right up to the relief, but I can't see any on the bust. And the lines are parallel which is consistent with die polishing. It also has virtually no wear that I can see, so I would say the 42K one is the best. Who is selling it, Roddy or Ras? The DNW one will probably go for about £20K, but not sure about the lowest grade one. That's a filler rather than a desirable coin, so might not go over 10 because it has a few scratches along with the wear.

Hmmm. Not sure it is worth ticking every box as I have at least 5 examples of all the denominations listed, though in the past it was 1/3 shillings and 1/3 halfpennies and 1/3 sundries. You have also missed the gold pieces off the list. People do collect these as denominations.

Not a clue what it is except to say it's a medal or medallion and certainly not a coin.

The Charles I will be ok and is a type 4 halfcrown, i.m. triangle in circle (the only other mark with this horse is star). The jury is out on the Henry VIII. It is York, but the image quality isn't good enough to compare with known fakes. You need to take perpendicular images because angled shots make comparing with the database of false coins or overlaying images impossible. I would hazard a guess and say it may well be ok because a ragged flan is a lot more difficult to reproduce.

There are probably more Japanese collectors of English than you ight think. Certainly enough for Baldwins to attend the Tokyo coin fair and even back as far as 2004 I was outbid on a tin halfpenny going that way too. They have long collected choice English gold.

I admire your laudible target and your optimism, but unless you are prepared to dig deep suspect the wheels will come off the bus. You will struggle finding a Harthacnut, Harold II or a William II for under a thousand, not to mention the minor inconvenience of an Edward the Martyr - One type, always popular, portrait coin, always expensive. And the major inconvenience of an Edward VIII which I recommend you start saving for now. Thanks Rob I did check out the prices intially and some did make me twice! But if it never gets finished I don't mind, the goal and the hunt is what matters for the collection at the moment, and not buying coins just to fill a gap! Some compromises may have to be made (such as dropping to VF for the bun heads, but I actually prefer the pre 1895 pennies in VF I think its due to the history and that they were handled probably!) everything post 1895 is as close to Unc as I can afford apart from some of the scarcer coins I will settle for VF or F if needs be. As for the Edward VIII if had that money to throw about I would have a complete collection of every penny, mint etc plus a mansion, 20 odd cars................... etc. But if I ever saved that amount there is no way in hell I could convince SWMBO to buy a single coin for that amount (or her description "a piece of metal!!!! ). It will definitely prove interesting when I start with the more expensive hammered coins! Your bun policy is romantic and laudable in its own way. However, do be aware that if you are prepared to tolerate a variety of grades in your collection there is great scope for affordable completion. For example, buns from 1887 to 1893 are readily available in EF or better - with lustre - for very reasonable prices. Especially 1890-92 for some reason. F or GF could be reserved for difficult dates like 1864, 1869, 1871, 1865/3, 1875H, and then you could hover around the VF mark (+/-) for everything else. In fact, most dates can be picked up at good prices in GVF and you could even go EF+ for the common varieties of 1860-61, and 1862-63. Thanks Peck, Thats good to know and fully noted! I will be still be attempting to buy the best that money can afford so the higher grades will still be present throughout a considerable portion of the collection as I don't want to fall into the trap of completing a section and then going back through to make upgrades later. My rate of purchases has dramatically reduced which is another bonus as I am only prepared to buy the best that I can rather than just become attached to gap filling for the sake of it! It also means I can keep Mrs J happier with less arrivals ! No chance. You have just moved the goalposts. The moaning will continue unabated.

Even that wouldn't work. You could have all the money in the world, but if someone doesn't want to sell that unique coin, you're b******d.

No problem.

The whole forum's gone bananas! I think we should all drink 'bottled' water until we can work out what the hell's going on around here? What's your problem. Ask questions and a few brain cells flicker into life in people's heads. If the topic is stimulting enough, a percentage will take it on board. No bottled water required - pah. Anyway, what's going on is a realisation that there are more things in the wider numismatic world than an individual's collecting sphere which is usually restricted on the dubious grounds of not being able to afford to collect something. This is a red herring because most people can't afford to complete the series they are currently working on anyway. Vive la difference.

I admire your laudible target and your optimism, but unless you are prepared to dig deep suspect the wheels will come off the bus. You will struggle finding a Harthacnut, Harold II or a William II for under a thousand, not to mention the minor inconvenience of an Edward the Martyr - One type, always popular, portrait coin, always expensive. And the major inconvenience of an Edward VIII which I recommend you start saving for now.