absence of uniformity

Here is a pair of 1/12 queen Anne flintlock pistols I made. https://www.youtube.com/shorts/JRH-9o-P6sg

I dont own a dollshouse myself but in my spare time I make objects for collectors (I'm amateur jeweller), here is 1/12 scale fully functional padlock.

Here is all the dies I made with the different collars.

Here you can see the mild steel die deformed after striking around 20 coins. To me its clear you need tool steel and the die must be tempered to some degree. But not so much its too brittle. But in its current state not suitable for striking coins.

Here is the pair of dies and the coin I struck with them. This was the largest I made and because I spent a while engraving them I was more gentle with the hammer. The image shows the dies and the coin made using them.

Thanks ! I started out with intentions to try and engrave reverse and obverse design of a penny, I quickly gave up on that. Impossible. I have a pantograph that I can mill metal but struggled with that because the dies are 4mm diameter even with a 6:1 reduction. In the end I engraved the designs freehand using a loupe, it was tricky. For a normal size coin I could print a guide/stencil on the 3d printer and using the pantograph mill the design into a steel die then temper it. The more simple designs of hammered coins I could make something that resembles the real thing. Although I have no intentions of forging any coins.

I engraved some coin dies in 1/12 scale for Dolls house money. I used mild steel and after striking 20 coins the mild steel dies deformed. I dont know but would imagine real coin dies are tempered to a certain degree making them less likely to deform like the dies I made. I tried striking gold, silver, bronze and copper all soft metals compared to mild steel, the fact my dies were not tempered they deformed. I quickly understood a highly polished die and more force when striking the dies produced much higher quality strikes. When I try it again I will anneal 01 tool steel engrave my obverse and reverse then temper them in order to harden the metal so I can strike more than 20 coins. There will be a trade off between a soft of a die that deforms with subsequent strikes and tempering the metal too hard the dies crack rather than deform. If a metal cracks rather than deforms it suggests it is tempered or work hardened and with each subsequent strike the metal is probably hardening itself also. At a guess I would think a pair dies slowly harden over the working life of a pair of dies which may lead to crack dies?? I made a steel tube/collar inserted the bottom die into the collar then placed my metal blank into the collar then presented the other die and struck it with a hammer. Initially I was getting weak strikes, then started hitting it harder which produced much nicer strikes but ultimately deformed the dies.

I just noticed the following; https://aboutfarthings.co.uk/catalogue/farthing-varieties/ "Obverse 2e Die Fault resembles colon between 8 & 5 in Datal Figures (Image shows early stage of flaw, advanced stage can be seen in the enlarged image" I saw a coin listed as having a colon and when looking at other 1851 farthings I noticed the example with the crack, aboutfarthings.co.uk has it spot on.

Interesting, do you think the images show that progression? A crack formed, two holes drilled and then the die deteriorated further to show the pronounced crack we see in the first image.

Both coins are missing the serifs on the B of BRITANNIAR.

If you look at the bottom image you can see the faint line of the die crack. The coin was listed/sold as having a colon. I'm aware a variety is listed for the 1851 Farthing with a purported colon. Looks like the beginnings of a die crack rather than a colon to me.

I'm aware that the difference between the example images can be/is the amount of wear, if the letter B is worn down enough you would see the straight section of the of the R shown in the top right corner of the bottom loop of the B creating the straight section.

First of all I'm not asking for financial advice about whether or not to purchase a coin. Secondly I'm only asking opinions on whether or not the coin in question "could" be B over R based on the image provided. I know its a poor image, which in turn limits the ability to awnser the questions with any confidence. I'm simply looking for opinions on the question outlined above. Comments unrelated to the question I won't address. If you are not interested in this type of question please simply scroll on by. Note the image on the left is the coin in question. And the other two images show examples of B over R one without a straight edge in the top right corner of the bottom loop of the B and second example with a straight edge in the top right corner of the bottom loop of the B. Im quite sure the coin in question is not a B over R coin, however I'm interested to hear others opinions. Thank you.

To keep things more coin centric and on the subject in hand Im not going to get involved with anything else and it will avoid as said above me taking offence.

Im just going about my quest looking for input on a theory I have put forward and like other posts I feel I have to prove or justify myself. When all I have done and doing is just learning and asking a simple question; what do you think about this ! And instead here we are again with me having to justify/prove that I started collecting penny varieties in Jan. Why does it even matter? I would rather do without the indirect compliments and just stick to coins. Maybe il say this; lets keep it coin related and the question in hand and if you do not wish to get involved and or bothered by me or my question or whatever please just scroll past.

I dont remember asking for financial advice or about purchasing this coin.. As I said it was purchased prior to posting. The coin was cheap enough its a fair buy just for a standard coin in the condition it is. I said I wont post here with questions about my coins so you dont feel party to or obliged to respond but thinking about it you could just scroll on by if you dont want to get involved or do not wish to participate.

Rim edge looks Identical to the image you attached and perfectly normal to me.

Thanks, please see the attached image to see the normal rim edge. No rolling or machined IMO.

The coin was purchased prior to posting here.. To save you being party to any of it il refrain from posting questions about my coins here.

That's fine, but do you think the coin/question of this post is unusual in terms of the apparent thickness. Nobody addressed it. Everyone wants to talk about knowledge or language. Does the appearance of the this halfpenny coin look thicker than normal using the limited info I have put forward. I purchased the coin so will find out sooner rather later anyway. I didnt want to ask the seller for a weight for obvious reason's.

What exactly are you referring to ? Im here asking a question which would suggest I dont have the "knowledge" I exclusively use Richard's website Michael Freemans book and the LCA website. Between those three sources of information the only detailed info availible I'm missing is from the other specialists. Have you noticed nearly all of my questions are not related to anything written by M Gouby........ Because I dont have access to any of it or Dracott etc. I use the info availible to me I dont retain any of the knowledge. Every single coin I look or come across I check it against the info I have availible to me. Its a question of Probability all thats seen here is the very few leads that actually have potential that I cant exclude myself as nothing. It really is as simple as that. Im super intense with my research and efforts, as I have explained to you previously you get out what you put in. I was lucky enough to find a couple of super rare coins which gave me a huge boost of motivation. I dont really have much else to say about this.

In this post the one single numismatic term which I used is Flan.. The coin question is listed in black and white including the word flan. I asked the seller of the coin "does the rim of the coin have damaged" In order to obtain images of the edge of the coin without raising suspicion. And that's it. I dont even know for sure if the pairing is even 10+J. (So this could all be a complete waste of time) Richard's website lists the halfpenny types, the die pairings and the rarity rating so no knowledge is required. I have just noticed a coin which looks thick and by chance its possibly 10+J zero knowledge was required to reach this point. It was logical to measure the letters on a coin I have and then apply those measurements to the image IMO just basic pragmatic approach to my own question.

Do you resent me for putting in the legwork and finding the coins I have found? You cant sit back overlook the coins then to make yourself feel better about it by start chucking around accusations. I'm not weird for your shortcomings.