absence of uniformity

To me thats what will keep these few and far between and the premium up. @RChris I have had another look tonight trying to find a country the RM has struck coins of a similar weigt and size without any luck.

If it was my coin I would set a reserve. If a dealer was prepared to pay more than what the coin made 10 years ago clearly its worth more today.

How do you intend to look for one without buying hundreds and weighing them?

I was under the impression in recent years interest had spiked, not from my own experience but various things I have seen/read. I only buy unattributed coins so loss in the future i doubt will amount to much for me, but same for the collection will probably never amount to much waiting for coins that are never going to appear.

Did you set a reserve? It would be a shame to let it go for a fraction of the price it has previously made.. Surely it's not a common coin? Then again it's quite obscure in the sense you need to be looking for it and weighing 65's to find one.

I quickly checked a few of the obvious commonwealth countries I cant find a bronze coin that size and weight.

1 Penny 1965 Mint Error - Mis Strike, struck on a thicker heavy flan and weighing 12.11 grammes, A/UNC the obverse with traces of lustre, Sold £280

Ok thank you !

Hi, could you please define extreme, @Martinminerva took the time before to explain this which I understood. But I cant help but notice these. Im posting this here I dont wish to hijack rather continue the conversation. Am I correct in thinking the image I have attached is not extreme. I can't see any trace of the right leg of the R. I over R I dont think so.. but once I see these I kind of stuck on them. I know the early bronze coinage this is quite common. Where it could become interesting if it was I over R. Thanks

Fully functional teapots hollow spouts and removable lids.

Here is a pair of 1/12 queen Anne flintlock pistols I made. https://www.youtube.com/shorts/JRH-9o-P6sg

I dont own a dollshouse myself but in my spare time I make objects for collectors (I'm amateur jeweller), here is 1/12 scale fully functional padlock.

Here is all the dies I made with the different collars.

Here you can see the mild steel die deformed after striking around 20 coins. To me its clear you need tool steel and the die must be tempered to some degree. But not so much its too brittle. But in its current state not suitable for striking coins.

Here is the pair of dies and the coin I struck with them. This was the largest I made and because I spent a while engraving them I was more gentle with the hammer. The image shows the dies and the coin made using them.

Thanks ! I started out with intentions to try and engrave reverse and obverse design of a penny, I quickly gave up on that. Impossible. I have a pantograph that I can mill metal but struggled with that because the dies are 4mm diameter even with a 6:1 reduction. In the end I engraved the designs freehand using a loupe, it was tricky. For a normal size coin I could print a guide/stencil on the 3d printer and using the pantograph mill the design into a steel die then temper it. The more simple designs of hammered coins I could make something that resembles the real thing. Although I have no intentions of forging any coins.

I engraved some coin dies in 1/12 scale for Dolls house money. I used mild steel and after striking 20 coins the mild steel dies deformed. I dont know but would imagine real coin dies are tempered to a certain degree making them less likely to deform like the dies I made. I tried striking gold, silver, bronze and copper all soft metals compared to mild steel, the fact my dies were not tempered they deformed. I quickly understood a highly polished die and more force when striking the dies produced much higher quality strikes. When I try it again I will anneal 01 tool steel engrave my obverse and reverse then temper them in order to harden the metal so I can strike more than 20 coins. There will be a trade off between a soft of a die that deforms with subsequent strikes and tempering the metal too hard the dies crack rather than deform. If a metal cracks rather than deforms it suggests it is tempered or work hardened and with each subsequent strike the metal is probably hardening itself also. At a guess I would think a pair dies slowly harden over the working life of a pair of dies which may lead to crack dies?? I made a steel tube/collar inserted the bottom die into the collar then placed my metal blank into the collar then presented the other die and struck it with a hammer. Initially I was getting weak strikes, then started hitting it harder which produced much nicer strikes but ultimately deformed the dies.

I just noticed the following; https://aboutfarthings.co.uk/catalogue/farthing-varieties/ "Obverse 2e Die Fault resembles colon between 8 & 5 in Datal Figures (Image shows early stage of flaw, advanced stage can be seen in the enlarged image" I saw a coin listed as having a colon and when looking at other 1851 farthings I noticed the example with the crack, aboutfarthings.co.uk has it spot on.

Interesting, do you think the images show that progression? A crack formed, two holes drilled and then the die deteriorated further to show the pronounced crack we see in the first image.

Both coins are missing the serifs on the B of BRITANNIAR.

If you look at the bottom image you can see the faint line of the die crack. The coin was listed/sold as having a colon. I'm aware a variety is listed for the 1851 Farthing with a purported colon. Looks like the beginnings of a die crack rather than a colon to me.