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declanwmagee

Coin Dealer
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Everything posted by declanwmagee

  1. Good one Dan!
  2. Oh, don't forget The Beast of Bolsover!! Unless you actually meant Denis Skinner, and Scargill was a misprunt? Ah yes. "Tell her to pay her taxes" Classic Skinner.
  3. About right on the 1914, you may have been too generous on the 1940, and the 1965 is probably aUNC, but please, drop the Very Choice nonsense! Obverses tend to be easier to grade, I find, and a quick look at the head side of the 1940 would give a much better idea of where between VF and EF that one is. You do want to see very good hairlines on an EF.
  4. Ah, the life of a top coin dealer, eh, Chris?
  5. A sad loss. I think that just leaves Scargill as the last person in Britain who actually believes in something.
  6. You'll have to read your homework again, Dan! You don't, under any circumstances want to be buying circulated coins. That can be said with very few exceptions right back to the 1930s. Buy the very best you can find! That was the point of setting you 1967 as a starting point you see - as the commonest year, and the last predecimal year, you will be able to insist on top grade coins, and still only pay pennies. Then you'll be able to get a feel for what uncirculated coins look like, and thus be able to be choosy when you get to the harder dates, which is when it really matters.
  7. Dan, every day I wish I was in the same place as you, starting from scratch. There's so many things I'd do differently the second time around. Clearly, the only way to collect is my way, so here's what you do: 1) Start at 1967 2) Try and buy the best you can find of each denomination in 1967. You'll find there are 6 3) Move on to 1966. One more denomination. Your homework is to find out which one. On my desk 9am please. 4) As you progress through the 1950s you'l find that you might have to be a bit less fussy on grade. Do not give in to the temptation to buy second rate coins to fill gaps. A gap is always better than a second rate coin 5) Keep going till you get to 1953. Something big will change after that date. 6) Keep us informed every step of the way....and enjoy!
  8. Erm...I have different rates for UK and abroad. I haven't come across this problem. Mind you, I've only been selling on eBay for about 10 years....
  9. Great to have another new collector (sorry, but you bought some, so you are a collector now) on board, Tom! I must say we have welcomed more new collectors in the last few months than in the last few years. Something's going on. To be welcomed though....
  10. If it was mine I'd put it in for £25 or so, or best offer, probably get £20 these days. I got £50 for an F174 last week, but that was NGC-63.
  11. Fancy spending $1500 on something without knowing what it is !
  12. Happens all the time. Quite right too. That's business!
  13. Here's what Bramah says are the chances: 1831: 59% 1834: 30% 1837: 11%
  14. Or a Buy-it-Now offer he couldn't resist...
  15. Well, the date used to be under the head - if it's gone, it's gone!
  16. Very good question! Some get included, some don't. It's all down to who compiles the literature. This one has been in all the books for years, so it's widely recognised as a variety, when strictly speaking, it ain't.
  17. That's the thing with that one, Vlad. It is a die fill, so it's progressive. You'll be able to find all stages of the fill right from not filled at all to completely invisible and everything in between.
  18. Hard to tell from your photo, Scott. Here's a W.W that I sold recently if it's any help...
  19. ...and yet I had a BU '57 calm sea a few months back but it flew out of my Shop like it had wings. I think it lasted less than a day. It went to Canada, where someone obviously collects them! And Rob does, of course. And I do, but then I collect everything.
  20. Another new collector! This is good... For all our scoffing at the Royal Mints tactics, it does seem to be working you know...
  21. Good for you, Matt! Took me bloody years to get to the Midland.
  22. Best thing to do with the casual collecting of older coins, is to try and put some date runs together starting at 1967 and working backwards. That way it won't get too serious too quickly, as it might if you started collecting by type. You'll soon find out which dates are the tricky ones, and working like that you'll e able to be very choosy as far as grade is concerned, which I wish I'd done right from the start - would have saved me years of repetitive upgrading! Decimal stuff - no idea! Someone here will though...
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