TomGoodheart

There you go Peter. Authentication and provenance in one! (10/10 on the homework Rob!) .

Are you being derogatory? I don't see anyone called Mr Sole and can only assume that as Peter gave you an honest opinion of your coin you're calling him R.Sole, if not i'd be happy to hear your explaination of the Sole comment. Peter does have that name in his avatar ... I don't think pescaotk1 was being anything other than polite Dave! .

*bump* (I was hoping Clive or Rob might add something. They look fine to me, but they're not really from a period I have much knowledge about...) .

6g is an 'ideal' weight for shillings. In real life they can be undamaged and still vary from as little as 5.75 to 6.25 die to the blanks being hand made. It's a bit worn and has that graffiti, but providing you don't polish it or anything it's a decent enough example of a 460something year old coin! .

Hi Peter! Hopefully some of the experts in earlier hammered will chip in soon. In the meantime, glad you made it! .

I think that's just a standard stock ticket rather than an attempt at making it look slabbed. Doesn't look too bad providing you go by the coin not the label... .

Well, I did have a copy of Spink to help.

Cheers Clive! (Didn't I do well ... for a beginner, at least!)

Aethelred II penny. Spink 1152, helmet type? Mint and moneyer... not sure. Looks like.. +ÆÐELPINE M_O then ... CROL? Cricklade? At least, that's the best I can do. Hopefully someone knowledgeable will chip in soon! .

The irony is that, as I scrolled down the listing, the first ad I saw was for a similar Eddy shilling from Buckscoins at less than half the price and a good grade (or two) higher ... .

LOL It is a challenge! And I'm not talking about actually finding coins to buy! We all have to set some limits ... or our budget, circumstances or simple availability of storage space(!) will likely limit us. Buy one coin and you have effectively decided not to buy another one due to grade, eye appeal of cost .. But in a way it's what makes it fun. Every collection is individual this way because each is our personal chice. Yes, I suspect we all see coins and think .. that looks nice! I have a small collection of (mostly French) coins featuring the head of 'Marianne'. I occasionally look at hammered pennies .. even coin dealers' advertising tokens more recently. I'm guessing my shillings forgive me for the occasional transgression though as I rarely actually buy anything else!! Bottom line? Buying the best you can find/afford will stand you in good stead. And if you're having fun ... why worry?!

The Unite is 2.5K. As to failure, no I don't think so! We all collect differently. I stick to one denomination from one mint and part of one reign. Rob collects different denominations, metals, designers ... It's whether you enjoy your collection and collecting that matters I think. Personally I have an overall budget but not one per individual coin. I've spent as little as £18 on a shilling, though most cost between £60 and £250. And it has to be a pretty decent coin to go to the top end! Most I've spent? Just under two grand. But there are only 6 known examples and mine isn't the worst and I wanted it! I think budgets need to be flexible as some coins just do cost a lot more. But for me at least, there's little point underspending on a coin I have doubts about. If I'm not quite sure at the beginning, you can almost guarantee I will tire of it in time. But I'm still learning what I like and what, for me, makes a coin a good one. Learning takes time and you just have to buy a few coins on the way. If eventually you decide to specialise and get rid of a few, if you've bought good coins with appeal they will sell ok. But really there's nothing wrong with 'liking everything'. It's probably not the way most people collect, but if you enjoy the coins you own, it's not really a failure IMHO. .

Tricky. As Azda said, a Stuart crown is probably likeliest. However, they aren't large coins as you can see here: And as with any coins, as the grade (and 'eye appeal') improves the price goes up ... personally I'd worry that in time you'd regret buying a small worn coin, rather than paying a bit more for a nicer piece. Hence my suggestion of trimming the budget for the more recent reigns (though still buying top condition) and shifting some of it towards what will be your more expensive purchases. Alternatively, better grades can be bought if the coin has some other weakness, such as clipping: Both coins are around the £550+ mark .. .

The cheapest Ed.VIII is probably the halfpenny reverse uniface. It's currently in a 65(?) slab and last sold for around £3000-3500. You might find another pattern uniface for less than 10K, but after that you are talking £20K and up. I started with my budget at £200 per coin. I already paid two or three times that in some cases. I didnt know all EVIII are fantasy pieces. In this case i might leave a gap.I never liked him anyway. Not all are fantasies. There are a few rare official patterns, as Rob says. But yes, a gap might be preferable. As to rare Geo VI and EIIR .. yes, you could. Or .. you could save the pennies on some more recent coins and go for something like this at the other end? OK, I admit it. Just showing my preference for hammered coinage! But it is quite nice IMHO! LOL

Edward is tricky because, as I expect you know, no UK coins were officially struck in his name. And those issued abroad bear no portrait. I do like the Percy Metcalfe 'Patina' pattern coins myself, but they are of course fantasy issues. For George VI and Liz I'd personally go for proofs. George a proof halfcrown (I think 1950 was the first proof issued in cupronickel, so more interesting for that) and Elizabeth, how about a brass 3d? A bit different both in shape and metal? Neither should be very expensive so you can hold out for decent examples? Of course, that's just my suggestion. Go with what you like! .

291419056878 291419061211 A long time ago I did overpay (£28) for a 'Montreal' copy of a Pontefract shilling because I wanted an example .. these however .. no idea! .

221728810973 .

Hi John! Glad you finally found predecimal. I think you'll find it better than coincommunity other forums for expertise on British coins!

Happy Birthday Peter! (You can imagine a short balding bloke raising a glass of cab sauv in your general direction if you wish)

Belated happy birthday from me!

Milled and English? You guys don't make it easy you know! But here's a quick snap of the reverse of my halfcrown. Whether it shows or not, it has quite pleasing pinkish/ gold tones to the deeper areas ... Edit ... hmm .. you might all just have to take my word for it! .

Here's the contact details for Peter Nichols in case you're interested: http://www.coincabinets.com/contact.html They don't just make them. They also restore and adapt. Very helpful ... but also busy! .

Nice old cabinet! I'd be careful of any glue that you can smell. It's obviously the risk of the fumes containing something that will affect the coins (probably accelerate toning). However it's hard to tell what the risks will be over time. It might be that the velvet itself will tone your coins. Maybe best to just replace the velvet? Modern coin cabinets tend to be lined with felt, so I'm assuming that's pretty safe. Though that won't have the recesses for coins like your velvet. If I decided I had to glue, I'd make sure I left the trays for a while (a month seems safe) to let any fumes dissipate. I think Rob has a background in chemistry. Maybe he or someone can chip in with more definite views? Oh, and to answer Coinery above ... Peter Nichols cabinets is perhaps the one? Peter has retired and someone else took over. When I spoke to them they have replaced all the material Peter used with natural finishes. She seemed to think Peter's current ill-health might have been due to some of the chemicals like varnishes he used. I suspect they'd advocate only a limited range. Rabbit skin size is a traditional artist's glue/varnish I seem to remember ... but again, maybe someone with more knowledge can say if that would work. .

I echo Paul's comment Nick. Yes, topics drift. Yes, people speak their minds. I could go round deleting posts that might be .. controversial, shall we say ... but I'd rather not, both because it would take time but also because I'm not greatly in favour of forums where everything is policed, because then people don't always feel comfortable saying what they want to. It's a difficult compromise and it sadly won't suit everyone. Personally I just skim over most of the meanderings for the next on-topic comment .... ...unless I'm bored, in which case Peter and Dave can meander better than anyone else I know! .

Wow. Sorry to hear that Peter. But I'm glad you're home now and hope you're soon feeling fully recovered and that the appointments next week and pills do the trick. I thought it was quite on here for a while .... But seriously, look after yourself! .