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I know the 1915 is hard to find with a good strike uncirculated but in the image I have attached it shows a " Lustrous uncirculated" coin and the the ear looks partially flat at the top. The darker coin I have circled all the wear which is mostly flat areas not shown on the uncirculated coin and yet the ear appears to be untouched. How can most of the face show flat spots but the ear the highest point appears less worn than the uncirculated coin. Or is it a question of a weak strike on the uncirculated coin. That doesnt account for the wear on the darker coin and ear looking to be mostly intact with no flat area. I'm going to guess this darker coin is a recessed ear.

Well the answer to that is with difficulty . Firstly the 1915 is rarer than the 1916 and that most collectors associate the type with the broken tooth and want it to be clearly visable . And so without it, its really hard to tell from a photograph, but in hand its easier to determine the depression in the centre of the coin. Below are four pictures of the tooth gradually looking more broken Note in the top picture the tooth looks to be intact, but on closer inspection it is actually very slightly smaller . really hard to see on a coin. ?

You can also see the star on the breast, where the collar meets.

I third the suggestion, Class 9b2. The cross on the obverse is the ghosting of the metal being forced into the reverse die. It was an issue that troubled mints right up until the 1930s, at least. The modified effigy of King George was to deal with a very similar issue.

As example this coin is less worn, I cant see a broken tooth. how would you tell? Thanks

One other question I have please ; I know higher grade examples are really hard to come by with the recessed ear. But on better grade 1915 penny that dont have the broken tooth and not much wear to use that as a guide what would be the process be to identify the recessed ear? thanks

Excellent, thank you very much really helpful information.

No sorry its not a Recessed Ear type . With slightly worn coins, the recessed ear type shows no sign of ware to the top of the ear [ the Slight flattening you see on your example shows that the centre is protruding and readily becomes warn Also usually the tooth above left of the colon between T:O is damaged but not always with the 1915 , but always on the 1916.

Hi, can you tell me what the issue is on the coin between the B & the R, can it be removed without damaging it?

Is it just me or would the "low tide" P point more at gap than a bead if the arrow was drawn as close to the edge of the P and as straight (rather than at a slight angle) as on the "high tide"?

I'll go with class 9b too; the unbarred Ns (I don't think they are pothook) are disinctive. Also not my main field of interest or expertise, although I did somehow end up with 35 or so of the things and a copy of the Galata Guide. Post as many short cross (including cuts) as you like and I'll have a go though.

It's screaming class 9b at me. 9b2 maybe. Coinery will know more though i think. Short Cross are more my area of expertise. Stu.

Can I ask a question please ; The follwing coin is not a recessed correct? There is no broken tooth. Does the ear look recessed to you?

Today another delve into the box of Hammered Coins in need of identification it weighs 1.1 grm I'm still struggling with the Edwards... Rod Blunt has a very good page that show a list of pictures of the different crowns that has lead me to thinking that its a Edward I, 2b, 1279 I also need to ask how has the Cross indent occurred on the observe side... overly bashed when minting? ...........

Hi can anyone tell me what what’s on the coin between the B & the R, & can it be removed without damaging the coin?

earlier profile 72

earlier profile 71

earlier profile 70

and a 74 for comparison

It is probably confusing for the uninitiated, but the genuine 1775s have what looks like coarser hair strands than the 70-74 coins. End assumption? Looks different, so must be wrong. To clarify - the late coins have a virtually straight line from forehead to tip of nose, but the earlier ones have a distinct kink in the road.

PCGS however.... They got back to me, well past the stated 2-3 days for response, and completely avoided my query regarding it being the wrong variety. Their response is a joke, right? Their only diligence is reflected in getting more coins in their slabs, regardless how well they identify them. Screenshot of email is too large, so I'll just copy and paste it (compression makes it illegible). Hello xxxx, Thank you for your interest in PCGS! We appreciate you letting us know that you would like to send coins to us. Please see below for our service fees and how to submit to PCGS: There are two ways to get a coin graded: you can submit it through a local PCGS authorized dealer, or you can submit it directly to PCGS. Option 1 - Submit via a PCGS Authorized Dealer Many customers submit via a dealer because the dealers can often provide insight on a coin to see if it is "worth" being graded. Dealers can appraise coins, submit them to us for you, and possibly buy them or auction them once they're graded! I always recommend talking to a few dealers before submitting your coins. Check out our PCGS Authorized Dealer List to find one in your area. Option 2 - Submit to PCGS Directly To submit to PCGS directly, you first need to purchase a membership, which you can find here. After purchasing a membership, you can submit as many coins to PCGS as you'd like for one full year! The pricing will be per coin based on each coin's Declared Value. Please view our pricing list here. We ask that you give PCGS a declared value for each item ahead of time, as we cannot start the process on your order without having these values. This value is primarily used for insurance purposes. For the declared values, we only ask that you give us a realistic value based on the condition of your coin - this is why I always recommend speaking to a few dealers first! There are many options for submitting to PCGS, and it can be a lot of information. Please review all the links I provided, and if you have any other questions, just let me know! Also, check out our PCGS FAQ here! Learn all about your coin on PCGS Coin Facts! Sincerely, Isidro G. Associate Customer Care Representative PCGS Customer Care pcgs.com Privileged and Confidential Communication. This electronic transmission, and any documents attached hereto, (a) are protected by the Electronic Communications Privacy Act (18 USC §§ 2510-2521), (b) may contain confidential and/or legally privileged information, and (c) are for the sole use of the intended recipient named above. If you have received this electronic message in error, please notify the sender and delete the electronic message. Any disclosure, copying, distribution, or use of the contents of the information received in error is strictly prohibited.

I found this coin to my surprise.

This one I would say is a closer match especially the legends.

Here is another example of a genuine 1775 coin with the closed G's

The following information is for the top coin surrounded in white background; George III, 1775 Halfpenny. First Issue-Tower mint, London. Tower Mint, London. Obverse: Laureate and cuirassed bust of King George III facing right. Legend: GEORGIVS· III· REX· (King George the third.) Reverse: Seated figure of Britannia facing left, trident in left hand, olive branch in right, shield with Union flag resting on left, legend around, date in exergue. Reverse: BRITAN NIA 1775. Catalogue: Spink# 3773, KM# 601. Copper, 10g (actual worn weight 9.02), 29mm, edge plain.