Peckris

Forget the pointings - what I can see there is two distinctly aligned 4's: the first is rotated slightly counter clockwise, the second is rotated slightly clockwise, in relation to a hypothetical vertical line. That alone is enough to account for the pointing difference. Good spot.

Me too - you just beat me there scott!

Um, it doesn't say anything about WW2!! It's been changed Peck, it did mention WWII Oh right - the seller may have got themselves a history lesson in the meantime then!

How do you know they are lead?

Wasn't there a Peter Perv on Blue Peter once upon a time?

The 'P' is incuse (cut into the blank) where all raised parts are called 'relief'.

Um, it doesn't say anything about WW2!!

Hmm - tricky one. It looks as though something may have stuck to the die and impressed itself into the blank around the '1'. Or, it could have been someone playing around with a metal punch or other tool, after the coin left the Mint. There does look as though there is some damage to the top of the '1' - can you get an even larger sharper picture or scan, or is that as large as you can go?

Well that's a complicated question. Circulation is the biggest factor, but also environmental conditions must be taken into account : burial, salt air on coasts, poor storage (PVC), etc etc. But stored adequately, a coin's lustre will last indefinitely, though it may tone and/or fade. But it is still there, technically. As Coinery says, a shimmering but toned coin (copper/bronze) can be fully lustrous! Just make sure you store properly - PVC-free plastic flips, cabinets, trays are the best. Keep free from environmental pollutants, but don't get too hung up about lustre fading or toning. It's not the same as circulation wear, and only the money of determined but ignorant buyers will say otherwise.

Lustre is a actually a property of the prepared blank, and as you say, it imparts a reflective quality to the coin. As it wears, that special surface disappears and so the lustre gradually goes. It does vary a lot in colour, but think of it more as 'reflectivity' and you won't go far wrong (though 'colour' is generally how it appears to the eye).

Very nice strike To add a picture to a reply, just click "More Reply Options" and you get the usual Attachments .... like this :

Very nice indeed! Is it a proof? Certainly has that bronzed proof appearance, but even if not, it's rather nice (jealous face) As for pictures, you seem to have managed ok? Not the biggest, but perfectly visible.

Not to mention spelling and punctuation But it's in a slab - it MUST be all right!

How have you communicated with eBay? I've always found that by phone is the easiest way to get my point across. Assertively, of course... It was by phone Clive, strange things have been Happening though, cash is back in the PP account, account holders name has changed yet i can still see this Kelly T on the PP item details. But Hold the fort, i thought things were all rosey, but nope. Bought a lot in auction 2 weeks ago, in total 73 proof coins, 63 of them were piedfort 50ps, a Rather small packet arrives today (bear in mind these were all in the original cases) and 57 of them were not there how the hell is that possible? I have no idea, but the shoe is now on the other foot : you're the BUYER so eBay should now fall over themselves to make sure you don't suffer.

Numisporn

You can't use soap and water on bronze - it would be like water off a duck's back. You could try surgical spirit with a microfibre cloth, but don't rub hard. As for lustre in a cabinet, you could try a very thin film of olive oil, renewing at regular intervals. The main problem there is the red felt inserts, which would leave traces of red fibre sticking to the coin. But do remember that lustre is a property of the surface of the planchet, and never really goes if it's not worn away. It's still there but can 'fade' or 'darken'. I'm told the original underlying brightness can be restored, but I'm not sure how, nor would be too confident of applying to my own coins.

All in all, it looks like London Coins were most likely wrong on this one. I hope wherever they got it from wasn't swindled out of its true value...

From the same seller who has a listing stating: "also do not levee bad feedback until you have contacted me fist" That's hilarious, probably a BNTA member I should imagine There are only two rules about Fight Club...

Maybe they bought it as a fake, and paid 'fake' money for it - they could hardly then go on to advertise it as genuine.

But if the blanks got into the wrong tub BEFORE having the hole struck out?

Go into the Beginners forum and there's a sticky there about how to reduce pictures to a postable size.

That's the whole problem!

But if you're not, £500 is not going to pull you in, is it? And let's face it, the lower end of the market is numerically far greater than the posh end. It's the same with everything - cars, food, clothing, etc. The nearest I came to temptation was £250 for a Gothic proof crown repro, but in the end I backed out (to my lasting regret).

You are correct with your assumptions, most of the VAM's are blob's die cracks, and minor stuff...all of which are not listed in the Redbook. The real varieties...0 over CC, 7 over 6, Dbl Die, 80 over 79, etc have separate listing and pricing in the Redbook. Some dealers do expect more for a coin, with a VAM number, but I am not one of those people. I would not pay a premium for a VAM coin! BTW...I am going to be in my Father's Family homeland (Scotland) in late September. Going to Glasgow, Laggan, Airth/Falkirk, and Edinburgh (also England and Wales). BTW...what is haggis? Is it any good? Ha,Ha! We are going to have a dinner in Edinburgh that has haggis on the menu! We are on a Trafalger tour. Don't ask! Just to say that Mrs Beeton's recipe started something like "Take a sheep's stomach and place into boiling water with the long intestine hanging outside the pan". No. Just no.

Not sure - it's definitely not a matt proof, but it has a superb obverse strike. Perhaps 'specimen' is the 'new Choice' ?