Gary D

Hi Mark, Welcome to the love affair with half crowns - don't resist! If you've managed to get eveything from Edward VII in UNC them you're either very lucky or very rich, or both. A genuinely BU circulation 1911 is proving the Holy Grail at the moment. Plenty of them out there almost make it, but so far none has come up to scratch (or non-scratch). Plenty of 1911 proofs (which I have) too, but no really top notch circulation issues. I have seen a couple of near BU 1905s recently, but they came with a price to match. Fine if you're on a premiership footballer's salary, but I guess the average premiership player isn't up to appreciating coins. G My run of Half Crowns is coming along nicely as well. I collect 1900-1970 and I'm trying to put together a set of Davies types, recently found a 2310 in Proof that's 1953 1+A listed as 'to be confirmed'. Just five short for the set now.

1926 saw the introduction of the modified effigy farthing, 1926 did not see both old and modified as with the penny.

Both types are available, in the mint sets at least. Not sure about general circulation, even if sarce it would definitly not be rare

Is there I would be very interested in knowing how. Regarding the seller on ebay, he keeps putting it up and the first time I saw his auction I emailed him and pointed out his error, no pun intended.... obviously just trying to catch the unwary. Here is a picture of my currency edge error.

No. there is a 50-50 chance of which way up the write appears. There are two edge error types. 1/ Proof, the writing is out of order. 2/ Currency piece, out of position and words skipped.

Yes and no. There was no mintage the next year 1947 but how many 1946 were there minted in 1947.....

It is my belief that the whole subject of coin rarity is too often attached to mintage figures which in themselves are totally misleading. Often a minage figure is the number of coins released to circulation in a given year, not necessarily baring the date of that year. As an example, quoting peck, 1946 brass 3d. "The scarcity of those dated 1946 is due to the fact that about seven-eighths of the pieces struck during that year were coined from dies of the previous year" Whilst still in circulation everyone knew they were scarce so everytime one turned up it was put away. The same happened to the 1902 low-tide 19912H, 1918H etc... I bet you can find dozens of each on ebay at any time, it's some of the more plentiful years that are getting harder to find as nobody bothered to save them from circulation.

I go with Chris, it's likely an off metal strike similar to the one in my sig. To me it looks a bit claggy around the rigging to plated is not out of the question.

This is really a question for Chris but if anyone else has an opinion please chip in. Chris, how do you adjust your coin valuations on a yearly basis from one edition to the next. Is there some formula that can be applied such as multiply everything by a percentage or is it much more fluid than that. The reason I ask is that I have a large speedsheet listing my entire collection, about 1000 coins and I last priced it up using Spinks 2007 which I assume is getting a bit out of date by now so I need to do a bit of adjusting. My second question is, is there a way of determining the value of the in between grades from the two either side. Say for instance a GVF or GEF from VF/EF and EF/UNC respectively. Thanks Gary

I was preparred to swallow the £2.95 for one coin but £5.90 for two is taking the p!$$.

I thought I would post this thread in here as it's really just a bit of a winge although any contructive comments would be appreciated. I have recently won two coins on ebay, there was no mention of postal discounts for multiple wins so I guess I should not have expected any. This guy wanted £2.95 1st class recorded which is a bit steep but if you don't want to pay the postage you shouldn't bid so.... I won two coins and the checkout came up with £5.90 I then emailed to enquire if haveing won two auctions would I be elagible for a discount. Deathening silence, no reply so after a couple of days I paid up seperately using paypal and giving two delivery addresses one for each coin. I bet you are all ahead of me now.. yes they both arrived today at the one address in the same envelope. I guess the next move is to email him again and say hey what are you up to I think you should give me some money back. If that gets no response I guess my only option is to neg him.

It's only my opinion but I think the one on the right is so worn we will never know. Can you see any teeth around the N of ONE that is the other pointer.

It's completely random so probably about 50/50

Yes although I consided myself a collector of varieties I wonder if a line should be draw between pointing which was done to identify dies to the mint workers and just plain natural variations in the die production process.

I think several of us would be very interested to see this list

Actually, I have 4 different 1907 spacings in my supplemental collection......... as acknowledged on Michael Gouby's website..... Type Aa - even date spacing (7 to bead) Type Ab - even date spacing (7 to right of bead) Type B - 7 closer to 0 (left of bead) Type C - 7 away from 0 (7 to gap) I'll put my hands up, you caught me out there Gary. lol. Try as I may I could not get a decent picture of my Ab so didn't include it. Re Michael's website I believe he has got the descriptions wrong. Type Aa-even date spacing should be 7 to gap and 7 away should be to tooth, also 7 closer to tooth I would suggest to be to tooth.

I'm always interested in new varieties but after studying both pictures side by side I rely can't see enough difference to make me think there is a deliberate difference. On one of them the numerals look a bit heavier but the spacing of the numbers look identical. I would suggest anything of less than half a pitch is just a normal tolerancing between dies. Here is the 3 1907 varieties, close 7, normal 7 and wide 7 as an example Gary

I emailed the seller and he's removed the word matt from the listing so I guess that's solved that one.

I think Chris got a bit confused there but I didn't have the heart to tell him. All the 1923 reverses are L to tooth it's the obverse that counts. Davies quotes I of georgivs to gap and left of tooth. I prefer to use the I of BRITT, to gap and tooth. Tooth being the rare one. Chris your value appeared soon after I bought mine from a London Coins auction so it may be the same piece.

As it's my spare I think I'll give it try on ebay. Chris, just from interest how do you come by a value for CCGB. Anyway here is the one from my own collection, a bit better than the above example. Any chance of an opinion on grade and value.

I've just seen this and would really like it in my collection but I'm having doubts over it being genuine. The reverse looks worn on the high spots which for a rare coin seems wrong. It would never have been circulated and any ware would show bright through the matt surface. What do you think?

I picked this one up at the weekend. Ok it very worn but it's a Davies 1752 1923 mule that is with the pre 1920 obverse. Michael Goulby lists it as very rare, Spink and Rayner do not list it. Does anyone have a feel for the likely rarity of this type.

We could just have blank coins in different sizes! Plenty of those on ebay already

I've not tried this but the engineer in me made me think that if you put it in the freezer the coin may contract more than the plastic so making the coin loose and fall out.

Probably the guy selling the medals worrying that they will go for £170, probably less than he paid for them.