Sylvester

i dunno how to do all this html business so i'm not going to bother. The signatures used to work if i recall correctly.

For the past three years i've been hoarding every machin head 2p and penny that i came across in circulation. (except those that are really mangled, or really really bad), as estimations go i must have rejected at least 100 2ps and 100 1ps. All the rest i kept. Now here's the startling results of this ongoing experiment... date/number recovered 1p's 1971 = 67 1973 = 16 1974 = 18 1975 = 12 1976 = 11 1977 = 16 1978 = 20 1979 = 39 1980 = 19 1981 = 20 1982 = 7 1983 = 16 1984 = 25 2p's 1971 = 179 (any surprise?) 1975 = 29 1976 = 4 (and all of them are in horrible condition) 1977 = 18 1978 = 24 1979 =34 1980 =50 1981 = 43 Anyone else shocked by how few there are there, i mean that's not alot in three years is it? The two pences are also more common.

not my area i'm afraid, i know several minor varities exist, but CoinCraft makes no mention of what they are. So wait till Oli arrives, he's the farthing guy.

well i never actually knew that! I've just been and picked up my battered 1806 Halfpenny and it has K on the trunction. Tr = trunction, bascially the base of the neck or bust, depending on the coin you've got. A Jubilee head one would be a bust, likewise for a George II one (unless it was gold), but a Victoria Young head would be neck. Follow?

air-mail

I think this is a nice time to drop this in... My cat was called Jiffy, but since the renaming of the cleaning product i've been calling him Ciffy. (I know me cruel) And i think you did the best by your coin, i don't think cleaning does much harm to those that have been dug up, or ones that are in low grade already. It's just when people clean nicely toned UNC and BU coins that's when i do my nut.

money-spinner

i'm not too far behind.

Bismark

The really high grades aren't a problem, neither are the really low grades, it's anything between GF and AEF i struggle with.

I have a feeling Chris left haymarking out on purpose though...

i avoid Edward VII coins on that principle, i really just can't grade them. Either that or i grade them F, sometimes GF!

Lima, Vigo, EIC, WCC, Roses, Plumes, Roses and Plumes, Haymarking, Transposed Sceptres, Die number.

Well i've never had one, (well the only Edward farthing i ever had was pretty low grade) i should imagine the lustre shines underneath the black surface, which is translucent.

i dunno why but Ford Cortina's seem to kill every conversation.

i like my copper/bronze bright full lustre without a spec of toning. This is probably the reason i don't collect copper, can you imagine if i collected bun head halfpennies? They'd all have to have full uninterupted lustre. Don't mind some toning on silver as long as it's not colourful, i.e i like grey. But you can't beat blast white coins.

i must admit Oli i'm not fussed on the artificially darkened ones, i like the bright lustrous ones!

Right well (i'll let someone else supply the prices) but... The WW refers to the initials right at the bottom of Victoria's neck... you may, or may not see WW. If the WW is incuse it i'll look like someone has carved the WW in, basically the WW will be indented. If the WW is in relief or raised, it means it will stand out, the lettering around the edge of the coin is in relief, i.e it stands out above the field. Incuse is the opposite, it would be sunk into the field. w.w. means that dots are present in those places on the coin. TB i imagine stands for toothed borded, the obverse of George VI coins have a toothed border. RB should be the dotted border, like Elizabeth II coins, have a look at a penny out of your change to see what i mean. A mule is basically one side has the toothed, the other side has the dotted border. Black finish means the coin is darker than usual due to artificial toning done to prevent confusion with half sovereigns, bright is a coin that wasn't artificially darkened). A proof is a proof, and i believe this has been discussed before. (I think i got all that right, but having never collected farthings or actively read up on any copper/bronze coinage, i can only comment upon what i've seen whilst passing through those areas in coin catalogues).

oh if you sort them by year rather than by ID the William and George one's should appear also.

Chris just to keep you interested in those coins i'm sending, (and to try something out and see whether the link works), i've got some pics of the stuff i'm sending. (all those with the username Sylvester next to them, except for the proof £2 coin which is staying with me). http://www.omnicoin.com/search_results.asp...t=1000&cn=10055 (i'm still sorting a few coins out, i'll be posting them sometime next week).

Except me who seems to dabble in most areas of British numismatics, ancients and Roman excluded.

hey your welcome! glad to see i was in the ball park. Remember chaps guineas and half guineas go down a storm on Ebay!

and if anyone has been unfortunate enough to have to read my handwriting, you might also realise that i use the Æ (or the non caps version) every time there's an ae together. E.g Ærial photography, and ARCHÆOLOGY. (Even though you're not supposed to). just helps me remember to put ae, not ea.

i have used Æ before on here... just copied it out of word last time, i couldn't be bothered this time. But just for you, Æthelred II.

i handle them by hand but only hold the edges.