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Posted

Hi everyone,

I'm a newbie and just added my first post to the existing Acetone thread, but felt like I needed a bit of guidance from you all so started a new topic.

Hope that's ok?

I have inherited a collection of circulated silver Swedish Ore coins from my Grandfather which were loose in a cigar box. I want to put them in correct storage to preserve them effectively, so I have already bought 97% grade acetone (lab standard) and Hartberger self-adhesive flips.

Already bathed first coin in acetone and would like your opinion of 2 coins:-

1883 has been acetone bathed.

1907 has not been touched.

Most of the coins in the collection are similar wear and look to the 1907 25 Ore.

Which do you prefer the look of?

Am I wasting my time or even ruining the patina of these coins if I carry on with acetone bathing before storage?

Would it be better just to put the rest of the collection straight into flips?

Your expert opinions will be most welcomed!

All the best,

Wayne

 

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Posted

Firstly, comparing the two coins is irrelevant because what was needed was a before and after picture, no two coins being the same.

That said, it is not necessary to try to use acetone on every coin as the only reason would be to remove soluble deposits, most of which are likely to be residue from fingers. Coins will tone naturally from exposure to the atmosphere. This would not be removed. Some people are obsessed with cleaning everything in acetone - I am not convinced. If it isn't obvious why you would need to use a solvent, then why do it?

Posted

Thanks Rob,

I appreciate your opinion, and yes a before and after shot would be better.

I will do this now, but I am starting to lean towards the not needing to do it because most of the coins are tarnished naturally and not showing PVC damage or similar.

I was trying to gauge whether it was important or not to clean with acetone before storage if that helps with preservation for the long term y'know?

Here is before shot of one more coin.

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Posted

And 60 secs later here is the resulting after shot...

What do we think?

Is it worth continuing?

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Posted

Don't look to remove all the patina, as much is oxidized surface and will not be affected by the acetone. I don't see that this has done a lot after the acetone as we have many times seen. I think you will not venture a lot to experiment yourself with acetone on lesser valued bits. You will not ruin them. Bright "red" copper may be affected by prolonged exposure to alcohol for complex chemical reasons.

 

Obvious green, gunky, and greasy surfaces can be improved a lot as you will likely see and especially on higher silver content coins (0.835+).

Posted

Thank you VickySilver, 

What about lustre? Will acetone affect that?

Posted

No, only on copper alloy with prolonged exposure. Notum: must be pure acetone as has been discussed elsewhere. Here we call them hardware stores (like Home Depot) and a quart is about USD7.00 or so.

Posted

Thanks again VS.

The acetone I purchased was recommended via a link from another discussion forum, and was listed as lab tech grade.

But actually, I have decided to stop with the acetone bathing now because I am beginning to like the original patina on the coins even if they do look somewhat dirty and tarnished y'know?

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Hi everyone,

Just reviving this thread again to ask if anyone here could recommend some pure 100% acetone I can purchase from Ebay or Amazon please?

A web link to a trusted product would be much appreciated.:)

Posted

No need to go on eBay for it. Boots sell it in small bottles  for a pound or two.

Otherwise find your nearest hairdresser supplies company, they will sell it in five litre containers.

 

Posted

Thanks IanB, 

I've got an Amazon and Ebay voucher to use up so ideally would like a link to a recommended 100% pure acetone product!

Bearing in mind many members here have warned against using less than 100% pure acetone, so a weblink recommendation would ease my concerns.

Posted

You'll be fine with anything listed as greater than 99.5% purity - that will be the minimum specification, and wont leave any residue. AR grade - 100% pure for analytical purposes is unlikely to be listed on eBay and is way over the top for our usage

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