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The British Coin Forum - Predecimal.com

Hussulo

Accomplished Collector
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Everything posted by Hussulo

  1. Thanks. The colour of the first is maybe closer, but the second really is more detailed. I would say the second is the most accurate, but it looks nicer in hand. Larger pictures (especially when lighting is used from certain angles) can show more detail, but it might also highlight scuffs, scratches etc. on the coin which might not be obvious in hand.
  2. After reading Mark Goodmans article on coin photography http://coinimaging.com/photography.html I had another play with my camera. Both shots were with the same camera. The first one is my old picture and the second my new one. I must of had the camera set on the stand at a slight angle as the left hand side on both the obverse and the reverse is out of focus. I still have a bit to learn, but what do you guys think?
  3. Here's a link to grading coins on my site: http://www.coinsgb.com/Grading.html Its non coin specific, but it might help you. Chris and RedRiley are going to be relasing a book on grading soon so keep an eye out. Another option would be to upload your coins to something like: http://www.omnicoin.com/ That would save posting a couple of pictures at a time. Once you have uploaded them you could post a link to them and perhaps someone, or some members can grade them for you. Regards, Hus
  4. It means there where 20,422,000 of that type of coin ( "S" = San Francisco) minted (struck, produced). Most books have mintage numbers. Chris's Collectors Coins GB has them for most non gold coins. The Krause Standard Catalogue of World Coins. Has them for most world coins, but these books are quite pricey and the values aren't always very up to date. http://search.ebay.co.uk/search/search.dll...o%3D2&fgtp= You can also find bits and bobs on the net. Just type in the type of coin you have and mintage number in Google. You might find it.
  5. They sound good Chris. I'm almost out of the 2x2's I have been using so I've ordered a set.
  6. "Presented in EF grade", "detailed cameo" EF grade cameo? he must have uploaded the wrong pictures or something?
  7. I wouldn't mind to put this up on the wall Here's a link to the eBay seller I bought them off: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...A:IT&ih=012
  8. I just bought four different planchet strips from Germany: * 1 Pfennig * 2 Pfennig * 5 Pfennig * 10 Pfennig They will include an example of the coin minted from them. I don't know where I'm going to keep them, but I though I might get them framed with the coins in one of the centre of the holes for as an example. I don't know what Mrs S. will say, but I've got a feeling she won't be very happy with me hanging them on the walls.
  9. You do get some dodgy things for sale. If it turned out to be fake etc. it would of been sent back and a refund requested. The seller was on 100% positive so even with the bad pictures it was a gamble I thought was worth taking.
  10. Australia, 1879 Sydney St George Reverse Sovereign. Scarce date. Total number of mintage including the shield back is 1,366,000. The St George reverse scarcer than the shield back with fewer than ten thousand examples believed to be in existence. The eBay pictures where terrible took a bit of a gamble hopping it would be in high grade, but as it turns out not as high a grade as I hoped for. It has a small scratch on the reverse above St George, I didn't pay a lot for it and it's worth what I paid for i,t so I'm happy. It'll make a nice addition to my collection.
  11. There are a few "TANKS" on this forum. It's a great place to get answers and gain knowledge. I think a few of the regular, old school members have been busy (holidays etc.). I have always fancied metal detecting, but I have never got round to it. I did recently discover that there is a club not too far from where I live, so I might give them a phone and see if I can join. Even if I don't find anything I'm sure it will be good fun trying. Here's a good site for people interested in metal detecting: http://www.ukdfd.co.uk/
  12. I was wrong, you're not brilliant at all... you are simply INCREDIBLE TO SAY AT LEAST! U gave me so much information on those coins, I actually wasn't even hopinig to get any info on that George III coin, I thought, It's in too bad state to say anything about it, but you did! I was excited as a child! I love to know the background of my coins, so all your links were very helpful as well!Thnx a million once again! Love this forum!!! You're welcome. Any time.
  13. I don't know Chris, xmoviexmasterx and AdultMaster2k6 kinda sound like coin collectors to me. Having said that the rest could be genuine, who knows?
  14. Hi Holger, Just click on Chris' name above his picture and then send message.
  15. Oh well, I though that Babel Fish was well off. To me "I desire you all good from the ore mountains!" sounded like something out of Lord Of The Rings.
  16. Your top coin is a Victoria 4 pence. Look at the link below for details: http://www.coinsgb.com/Victoria/92-SilverFourpence.html Again in this condition it probably isn't worth any more than its silver value. Your second coin is a Victoria 6 pence: http://www.coinsgb.com/Victoria/93-Sixpence.html It has been made into a love token. A lot of Victorians used to etch the initials of their loved ones onto a side of a coin and it has had a hole punched into it to be worn as a necklace and a memento. There are some collectors that collect these but, it is damaged (hole) and I don't think it will be worth more than its silver value. P.S. These coins would definitely not be worth getting slabbed! I hope I have been of some help. Regards, Hus
  17. Lets start with the hardest one first. I think your showing the coin upside down. I also think at that diameter it may be a George III penny. This is the way it should be: I think the P you see is actually a D and then there is a D and you were right about the R and E which should be followed by a X. I have highlighted these in the picture below. I have also highlighted a circle, which looks to be some damage as if someone punched something on the other side. In blue I have lined up the letters in relation to the eyes and nose which looks to be in line with a George III penny 1806 to 1808. Look at the second coin in my site below: http://www.coinsgb.com/George_III/6-Penny.html The bad news is in that condition I don't think it would be worth anything. When it comes to coin collecting and values condition and rarity are the main factors that determine a coins value. It's all about being desirable, the nicer it looks and the less of them there are, the more people will want one. The age of a coin is less relevant. You can pick up a Roman coin for a couple of pounds, where as a modern coin in top condition might cost more.
  18. After using Babel Fish German to English translation this is what I got: "I desire you all good from the ore mountains!"
  19. Link to the Bay
  20. Good luck Chris and Red! it sounds like a very worthwhile book and one which I will definitely add to my collection. All the best, Hus
  21. There is a UK company recently established. Link below: http://www.cgs-uk.biz/home There are also companies in the US called PCGS and NGC (as well as others, but they are regarded to be the best in the US). To be honest I wouldn't really bother getting your coins graded unless they are valuable, even then its not really necessary. My most expensive coin an 1823 £2 and isn't slabbed. I do have a few slabbed (graded) coins, but that's how I bought them and a lot of foreign gold coins (especially if purchased from the US) are already slabbed. It cost money to get coins slabbed and if the coin isn't worth much, then really it isn't financially viable. If you get them slabbed it does offer some protection, like a hard plastic case, and a degree of guarantee as the said coin should be genuine (don't always listen to the variety stated on the slab, and sometimes they miss varieties). Alternatively if your worried about protection and damage to a coin, you can always buy plastic coin holders, capsules and slabbs and put the coins in yourself. If you wanted to find out grades of particular coins, you could post pictures here and someone will probably be able to tell you their grades (as long as the pictures clear) or alternatively you could take them to a local coin dealer, and if he's friendly and helpful enough he should be able to tell you their grades. Regards, Hus
  22. I wouldn't bother, cleaning them, especially if the are milled and not hammered. Most non collectors or new collectors think if a coin is shiny its worth more. The truth is, all coins tone in time and most collectors like toned coins. There are some coins which still retain their original colour, and that are in mint state, and that are worth more. If you try and clean a coin to make it look uncirculated or original, it won't work. An experienced collectors can tell a mile off a coin has been cleaned or if it retains it own colour and lustre. Cleaning a coin can seriously devalue it (especially if done in correctly) and 9 times out of 10 there is no need to clean them anyway.
  23. There is a die crack at the top part of 6 o'clock, not below the leaf. So I had two quotes to its value. 1st one $500 the second one after taking better pictures (different Canadian collector) between $700-$1200 USD retail. Needless to say my father in law is very pleased.
  24. No die crack though N (please note image is upside down). Reverse: No die crack at 3 o'clock
  25. No die crack through D? Small sign of a die crack thorough the centre of R.
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