Sword

Here's a photo. The micro letters on the obverse state "one pound" all round the edge. On the reverse, you have micro numbers "2017" all round instead of "one pound". You need magnification to read the letters or numbers.

One type has the date 2016 on the obverse and micro 2017s on the reverse. I have checked some of mine and realised that the micro numbers on the reverse are not always legible even on near mint condition coins.

This guy has now got a single feedback for "selling" a for £350. Description "we have a George v. penny 1933. in gd nick for its age ok. im open to sensible offers ok. thanks for looking." http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/george-v-penny-1933-/112367093733?nma=true&si=EJc8Vr6AdQ0ojMyWPof4yNoqs10%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557 Or is the last digit a glued on 3? There appears to be a lot of glue residue.

But the tone won't be the same though. AT will need to be used after the "fix" I think.

An absolute beauty! I understand that the earlier proof DC coins do have significant premiums. However, for the sake of argument, if VS's superb halfcrown were to be deeply toned even with the most amazing of colours, would it lose it DC designation? It seem to me that the DC term tends to be mostly used for coins that are near blast white.

NVF or VF I think, but might have been previously cleaned

1057 USD or £842 for the second one is reasonable isn't it? (Not that I have spent that much money on a single coin before). Doesn't look like the slab has inflated the value by much.

Likely to be weak strike rather than wear. Wear obviously lowers grade sharply but weak strike does not.

I gave this a go with a little help from Google Translator. However, my knowledge of written Chinese only peaked at GCSE standard and so I can't be held responsible for inaccuracies ... Ping An of China Insurance (holding) limited company commissioned Old Feng Yang Ltd of Shanghai to mint " Commemoration of Ping An of China's successful flotation on the Stock Market" silver medallions. Each piece has diameter of 40mm, weighs 1 ounce, fineness of 9999 silver. The article [i.e. medal] is of the specified standards. Old Feng Yang of Shanghai Limited Company. March 2007.

Christo Rei in Portugal. The 28m statue of Christ is supported on an 82m pedestal. Breathtaking views from the top.

Bearing in mind that 50% of the alloy should be silver, the weight loss is therefore about 20% of the copper content (as silver shouldn't be affected). I can't honestly see how it is possible that the coin can get fatter (I assume you meant thicker) despite losing such a high proportion of copper. So probably a fake I think. You can put the coin on your forefinger and give the edge a tap with another coin. The ring from a 50% silver coin sounds different to one with no silver (the ring from a 92.5% silver coin is particularly distinctive)

Just had a quick search and found some some photos of the two types. http://www.worldofcoins.eu/forum/index.php?topic=13836.0

I have just brought my second hammered coin, this Charles I shilling from Lloyd Bennett. (My first hammered was a Charles I Halfcrown from LCA). Size Approx. 30 -31.50 mm. Weight 5.91g. Group E, type 4.1 var., Sharp F5/1, mm. anchor to the right. Ex:- Alan Morris (bgt.Mark Senior.2/99). Lloyd graded it as better than VF/VF. It's now in the post and I look forward to receiving it tomorrow. I like it a lot because of its well struck portrait. There are no weak areas and grade is decent too. I would have preferred the flan to be rounder but the shape is good enough for me. I am obviously still very inexperienced with hammered as this is only my second example. Any comments, advice, opinions most welcome and appreciated. Right now a decent hammered coin tend to get me a lot more excited than a milled coin of comparable price!

Many thanks indeed. But I don't think I will be in a position to specialise anytime soon. At the moment, my approach is to buy coins which have eye appeal for me and then find out more about them afterwards. However, my modest hobby budget means that it can a while between purchases...

That's not a very helpful comment I think. We all made mistakes when we first started collecting. (I still have a cleaned matt proof 1902 crown sold to me (by W&W) as an AU currency from my early days.) It's much better to make mistakes (and learn) with lower value coins like this one than diving into something serious like a Gothic Crown. My advice would be to buy from respected dealers / auction houses. They are expected to point out problems.

This coin looks like it has been polished to the death unfortunately...

Many thanks for sharing your expertise gents. I think collecting is a lot more fun when one has at least some background knowledge. I will read the Sharp Article with interest later on. And yes, I do get a lot of excitement when learning about and (occasionally venturing into) the dark side.

Thanks Clive. It all makes sense now.

Thanks Richard. Your endorsement regarding a Charles I shilling is indeed most reassuring. I don't mind exposing my ignorance in asking the following questions. The mm anchor would either date it to 1628-9 or 1638-9 according to Spink. However since S2797 can have mm triangle as well, I guess the year must be 1638-9. Is that correct? I have always assumed the Roman numeral (XII in this case) is the Regnal year. Having said that, I am now rather confused as the same Roman numeral can have several different mintmarks which doesn't make sense if it is really the Regnal Year. I think this coin has the "Aberystwyth" bust. Am I correct? If so is it referring to the Aberystwyth branch mint?

Thank you very much for taking the trouble to photograph them in your bank. It is really fantastic to see all these great coins!

The third note has been found by an elderly lady and she donated it to charity. She said "I don't want my picture in the papers but if it sells for a lot of money it would be better if young children could benefit from it." Bless her!

True, there are many idiots about. But he is very lucky that the idiots are for some reason attracted to his silly offers and not to the more sensible ones.

Gold plating a silver crown would be approx £40K cheaper and would look just the same ...

Just out of interest, were any of the proof wreaths originally issued in boxes? I rather suspect that cardboard cases were used like the 1935 RE proofs.

What is the biggest difference between currency and proof wreath crowns VS? The rim? Superior strike? Do any of the proofs have frosted designs?