ski

Hi Dave......im interested in the silver book.........do you still have stock?..........

mary rose on flea bay.............. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2011-2-TWO-POUND-COIN-500-YEARS-MARY-ROSE-B-UNCIRC-/140492322856?pt=UK_Coins_BritishDecimal_RL&hash=item20b5feb828

recognized as a variety, accepted as a variety, appearing in print as a variety.....you tell me, i was simply asking as a 6d collector if there had been any progress since the last posts!!!!!.

sorry for coming into this thread late, but i was wondering if there was an update on whether this had become a recognised variety or not, or is the investigation still ongoing?

shaking hands.......are you photographing coins or thrupenny bits

its the not knowing whats going on with the edge, i think, that puts off most people, im not sure there is a good way of opening a slab......

i love bright lustreous, having said that, some of my fav coins are my victorian sixpence proofs with their irridescent blue tones. marvellous

a friend of mine has a problem looking down onto the coin, he has made a cheap wooden tray to hang on the wall and then angles the camera on the tripod to keep the coin parallel. As discussed earlier, a great photo can sell a coin, so time spent getting a good working set up is well worth it.

I use a mixture of storage methods, cabinet, boxes of paper envelopes etc. I have slabs, all cgs , and i like them, storage isnt a problem for me, but when friends or family show an interest in my collection, its always the slabs that come out as they take the handling.

by the way, the 3d and farthing were photographed not using my macro table but using a workmate outdoors using natural light. the farthing suffers from uneven lighting and the 3d from the camera not being exactly parallel to the coin, as a result the depth of field falls away on the left hand side of the coin.......the macro table and a correctly set up camera minmises these errors greatly......the human (me) however interferes to produce these poor images................

the main thing here is to get the coin being photographed parallel to the focal plane of the camera....photos of coins at angles often dont look right because the light falls away across the view. i use a macro table to take my coin photos, but a table and tripod do the same function, these allow the 90o view that is ideal. it doesnt matter if youre looking down onto the coin or straight at it, the view will be the same as long as you remain parallel to the camera. i prefer looking down onto a flat table as it gives me a constant, and once set up changing coins is easy. i always use aa a4 shet of paper for a background i try to use natural light as much as possible, but additional lighting reduces shadows caused by sideways lighting and for this i use a couple of simple anglepoise lights that use everyday 40w lights, raw allowing wb adjustments. natural light gives a nice light but is directional so some artificial light helps balance the image, for this reason its not always essential to use natural light, but preferable to control the light, as in studio work.........and its very easy to make a cheap coin studio.....table/tripod/balance lights. with photography, we find methods that work for us individually and 1 method is no more right than another, you have a good camera with a good macro facility and the ability to shoot raw, dont be put off by the extra work of converting a raw, the benefits of wb control and exposure are well known, but more importantly......while natural light is good, artificial light, once set up offers consistency and the ability to produce a batch of photos of a number of coins, without the problems associated with sunlight moving amongst the clouds/rain/snow.....whatever

close detail shot

and another

my first post here as a coin collector and im replying to a post about my job, photography. theres been a few good pointers here on taking pics, it is important to not overdo the lighting and blow all the details, often less is more. the last example clearly shows this. With different lighting methods and bulb types, different colour casts are given to images, when shooting jpeg,selecting a white balance setting will get a close approximation of the colour temperature range.......but to really nail it, shoot raw, this gives a greater adjustment to white balance and colour casts are easily removed......the downside, a little more processing, if your selling maybe worth the effort. have a look at the attachments......regular coins for sure, but reasonable pics. steve......... www.soccersnaps.org