TomGoodheart

In the UK the seller owns the copyright of the image afaik. Certainly not ebay. (In Germany at least, it's the photographer, which can cause problems if that's not the seller). While few people are likely to object, it's best to get permission if you're 'borrowing' images and essential to do so if you plan on publishing to avoid any potential problems. Which is a bit hypocritical of me since I don't, however I reason I am only ever going to use the images for my own research or, if I'm discussing a coin with contacts and it would be a lot of hassle to have to be writing to ebayers all the time. But next to the coins I own and proof of ownership, the collection of pics I've gathered (with associated prices and info of where and when they were sold) is perhaps the most valuble to me. Much more than the books I own; though I'd miss them, the pics are an irreplacable research tool.

I've decided I'm going to track down all the Lockett, Hughes, Shuttlewood and Brooker shillings and buy them for my collection. I'm starting just as soon as I've taught this herd of pigs to fly and given up chocolate. Seriously? I ought to resist buying rubbish coins I later regret. Whether I will be succesful, that's another matter. Somehow as soon as I have funds I seem to find the saddest specimens becoming unbearably attractive. Like this .. scarce admittedly, but surely there's a better one out there ..?

I was surprised to see I've bought five. I thought it was less. And one of those I'm probably going to put on ebay. Unless anyone here wants it. Charles I shilling for sale That's the problem with having a specialist collection and few funds. I find myself less tempted by the run of the mill or scrappy rarities, but don't have deep enough pockets to upgrade everything I want to!

I think it's the kind of King's shilling people used to find at the bottom of their glass after a few too many!

And another pic (larger ones available or request)

I'll probably list on ebay unless any one wants it? Spink 2792a "rare bust variety, no inner circles: large crude bust (Sharp E4/2) mm. tun" In my 2006 Spink listed for £75 in F and though it's double struck I'd say it's better than Fine. Notoriously difficult to find a decent portrait for these, with often the crown being the only part well struck. Let's say £90 and I'll include Special Delivery postage (which is insured).

I've had very varied success. Mostly I've won stuff for near my maximum but within estimate. I think my worst purchase was from WAG several years ago, estimate 175€ and I got it for 240€, just under my max. I'd hoped for quite a bit less and so, while not disappointed, probably paid too much. Oddly, my most expensive purchase ever (one of the Prestbury hoard coins through DNW) I put in a bit over top estimate and was surprised to get it for under the lower. At the time none of that type had come to market since the Brooker coins and I was expecting a fight, but .. I guess they were just over priced. There was a second example of the coin in poorer condition and that didn't sell at all, surprising I thought for the, what, fifth and sixth known examples. I understand someone picked it up after the sale. Generally I prefer fixed prices. That way I can decide if I'm happy with the price, maybe haggle a bit and I know what I'm getting. eBay, I've bought a few for way too much. But I'm that sort of collector. I don't buy to resell, but to add to the collection. If I have a gap and think the condition is good and decide to buy I aim to win. Not a good way to collect really, though I guess I've some coins that are rare that way, the price was high (and I've perhaps irritated a few other collectors by denying them their 'prize'!)

It's a matter of choice I guess. If you search for Roman coins, you'll see many of them have been cleaned. It's generally accepted that a bit of silver that's come out of the ground will need cleaning. By the time you get to the 1600s, people often prefer a coin to look as if it's been sat in a cabinet for years and expect some toning. But toning is what some call tarnish. Look at German coins and you'll see folk expect them shiny. Germans don't seem to appreciate toning like us Brits. If a coin is rare and it's (carefully) cleaned, so be it. Won't change that many will prefer it not to have been, but .. The only real issue is that with copper or bronze, you never will return to that original lustre look that people (ideally) look for. All I'd say is, if you are cleaning, go gentle. The least intervention (such as olive oil) probably the better. And if it's silver and has some verd (because copper was included in the mix) I'd leave it.

Bored? When you haz teh internet?? Just a few ideas when you finish reading the Stamps & Coins book ... Coin News Spink Numismatic Circular Lockdales catalogue And when you settle on one sort of coin, you can search for those! Learning is good.

Unfortunately collectors want coins in a condition that's as close as possible to the day they came out the mint. Worn coins (unless they have some silver in like the 3d which at 50% is not much scrap silver) even when rare dates don't command high prices. When I say as close as possible, this is the sort of thing: This 1870 penny sold last year for £30. Not a huge amount for something that's survived 140 years with very little damage or wear. Coins in worn condition go for a fraction of this. Which is my way of saying that probably there's little value to the coins listed. However, if you can be bothered, they will most likely sell on ebay if you start the price low. Whether they will sell for more than a few pence will depend on luck. Alternatively a car boot sale, or if you know a kid who might be interested in a few coins to start a collection ...

Ah, OK. Though my recommendations still stand!

As an Antony Caro medallion, it's fine. Possibly even desirable. It's just not a coin IMHO. Though I notice the obverse wasn't illustrated ..

AFAIK at the Bank of England you can exchange old notes for their face value since none have been demonetised. Here you go. Fill in the form and bob's your uncle. Or in this case £1 note is your uncle. Bank of England

???!! If you can afford one of those, it sounds like you should stop buying scrap copper to clean and start taking an interest in this sort of thing instead! Guinea Groat Half crown

A crown is 5/- (that's five shillings). Same size as a dollar or 8 Real coin (piece of eight) or a thaller, the universally accepted silver coin from the 1600s to the 1800s. But the crown was 'revalued' after 1981 (effectively from the Queen Mum issue of 1990 onwards) at £5. Quite why, I don't know, though sometimes it amuses me to get a few from the post office and use them in shops just to see the confusion it causes! I suspect the cost of producing a 25p coin nobody would use wasn't worth it, but the RM saw a market for a large commemorative coin they could flog and decided £5 was an acceptable price for another piece of tat .. er, modern numismatic and artistic collectable. Effectively it's a crown-sized coin. If you're pernickity like me at least! The important thing is that if it's a £5 coin then it will say on the coin. If no value is stated, it's worth 25p as they have never been demonetised. Except Churchill ones, which are of negative value, on account of their ugliness and lack of desirability.

Chard sell that sort of thing: Chard However, I feel obliged to remind you .. these aren't coins, they are just a way of investing in bullion. As such they are priced over their intrinsic value and with current prices high, I'd be surprised if ever you sold you'd get back your money, let alone make a profit. You might as well buy those limited edition plates (only 20 million ever made), dolls or those Nike Jordan sneakers people don't wear. Personally I'd prefer to put my money into a real coin with some history to it, but ..

Piece of junk. It doesn't even say what the face value is supposed to be, so how can it be a 'coin'?

LOL I got the very same thing from my daughter. "I think there's perhaps one page that will interest you" she said, but actually it's quite fun just to look though. Sorry to hear about the Gouby. Sounds like we'll both have to buy ourselves what we wanted!

Well, the good news is that I received some money to use towards coins! Not so good news .. I'm going to have to use it to pay Wifey, who I still owe for my last purchase! LOL

As Rob says, Michael Sharp's article is excellent, being both comprehensive and introducing a useful means of notation for the various types and varieties that is much handier than Spink (Seaby) or North numbers. Just remember that he misses out at least one bust/privy mark combination and a bust type unknown at the time the articla was written. And while not exactly a reference, I still enjoy looking through the Brooker Collection book (Sylloge of Coins of the British Isles 33) and comparing my purchases with Brooker's. Only B&W illustrations but covers a fair chunk of Chas I coinage and the coins are pictured actual size which is nice. You should be able to track a copy through the library or about £25, though I've seen copies for as low as £10 (£5 + p&p) on ebay. I think we all face the choice at some point of buying a coin that costs/is worth far more than the other coins in our collection. If it's because it's a rarity and the collection is more 'complete' as a result, it's maybe justifiable that it 'stands out'. But if it's because of grade then you (or at least I have!) end up comparing your other coins and wondering about further upgrades .. I guess if I'd had patience I might have managed to wait until I knew more and bought better grade coins throughout. But I suspect my collection would be smaller as a result (and at 67 coins, it's not very big anyway!). Plus I'd likely have lost interest, because, as originally suggested, I feel a kindred spirit with Gollum who seems to want to rush out and get as many coins as he can! The problem is, when I look back at coins that I've passed by over the last 7 years, while there are many (many!) I'm glad I didn't buy (or regret that I did!), there are also a few I wish I'd grabbed at the time that still shine as gems, even now!

I now buy exclusively on the internet. My nearest 'proper' coin dealer is miles away in Stevenage. But I think it depends on what you want and how much you have to spend. If you're just after some coppers (and brass) to sort through, then antique shops, car boot sales and ebay might be just the thing. But when you have fixed on gold and silver, if you want decent condition, then a dealer might be better. Chris, the owner of this forum, had a decent selection of modern (19th/20th century) coins. I think first you might want to look into what you would like to collect. Rob had said on several occasions, buy the book before the coin, and to some extent I'd agree. To really decide if you're getting a bargain (or paying through the nose) you need to know not only if a coin is considered scarce or common, but also what condition it is normally found in. Some coins are easily found in worn condition, or were generally weakly struck. Examples in near uncirculated condition, or with good depth to the design will command a premium that's worth paying. Other years and issues are all crisp and neat and easily found (1967 penny in full lustre anyone?) and despite the gleam, are not worth paying more than a few pence for. And if you're unsure .. well, there are people here happy to express a view on grade or pretty much anything else coin related. Just ask!

I'm sure they would be melted down to make some nice nose studs or something. I imagine the fact that would entail a loss of many ££K would ironically be lost on the *ahem* new owners. As for verdegris, all I can suggest is olive oil. Pop your nice green coins in and leave, possibly for months. Gradually the verd will be reduced, though it will also effect the coin itself. I don't believe there's any way to avoid that.

A little story for new members (and Gollum!) I see people’s enthusiasm for collecting coins. Their questions about what dates and what kinds and value and grade. And thought maybe a few observations from *ahem* more .. experienced members, might help. So I’ll start. I have always collected. Seashells, stamps, pebbles, fossils, paperback books. But coins weren’t really an interest until my Dad died. He left his ‘collection’, cigar and sweet boxes full of coins picked from change and lovingly wrapped in little pieces of paper. A half-sovereign at the bottom or an otherwise anonymous envelope. A brief case with £55 in those 50p pieces with hands on them. 2 Geo VI crowns (red boxes). And, most importantly, a copy of the Coincraft guide from 1995. Of course, at first I was looking for value. Picked put the silver and sold it. Cashed in the 50ps. Kept the nicer bits. I went to the library and looked at coin books. I found May’s The Splendid Shilling. Now shillings were coins that meant something to me. I’d grown up with them. Spent them. And they had been ‘continued’ as 5p. I liked shillings. I decided shillings would be what I collected. Along with coins with George and the Dragon (covered the Geo crowns). I phoned a few dealers for catalogues, looked in Coin News, visited a dealer I’d seen and used the money from what I’d spent to buy a few modern shillings and was persuaded to buy two cheap Charles I hammered ones too. I got some bargains. A couple of VF shillings from a guy in Bolton were really EF. But I spent some serious money in Stevenage on a 1663 Chas II and a Northumberland shilling. And then my wife found out what I’d spent. She was .. Unhappy. But accepted it was Dad’s money. She asked how much I reckoned I would need to fund a collection. I gave her a figure and she halved it and said there you go! A one-off fund to spend as I wished. After a while I realised that to get a decent example shilling for the first year of reign and every major bust/reverse style change was going to be tricky. James II and W&M prices alone would make serious dents in my money. I’d already dropped the George and dragon idea. I also started to get bored with the later milled and started to wonder about collecting shilling equivalents that circulated in the 17th century; Scottish Merks, French coins, that sort of thing. I bought a copy of the Brooker Collection syllogue. I subscribed to Spink’s circular, set up an ebay account. And that’s where luck stepped in. I bid up the price of a shilling I’d not seen before and the buyer emailed me. Shortly after I bid on another coin and found myself in correspondence with a second serious Charles I shilling collector. I bought a few duplicate coins from one, but really the important thing was the advice and knowledge I gained. The articles they referred me to that outlined more varieties I’d never seen or heard of. Since then I’ve only collected (or only spent money to acquire!) shillings produced by the Tower of London mint during the reign of Charles I. I have learned that, most times beginners like me pay too much! I’ve run out of money on several occasions and had to sell coins to buy new ones - often at a loss! I know that better examples usually exist, even of the scarcest coins. That new examples do turn up (like the four known that became six with the Prestbury hoard). That patience and buying the best you can afford are worthwhile. And that only a handful of people are interested in scrappy coins, however rare they may be. The value of a common coin in uncommon condition will usually far outshine that of one-of-a-kind in F. Anyone else like to share?

Depends what you want the insurance for. While it would be nice to get back some money if my collection was ever nicked, it couldn't replace it. Being hammered, all the coins are unique and some are so scarce there simply will never be a chance to buy a similar variety or type. They are irreplacable. The logical thing would therefore be to lock it up in a strongroom where nobody can get to it, because the loss wouldn't really be financial. Rob however, runs a business. I imagine for him, insuring his stock makes as much sense as for any other business person .. But that's no fun for me. Unlike the copper collecters here, I can pick up my coins and handle them without worrying about fingerprints spoiling their perfect patina! And that's what I like to do. There's a certain connection with the past, holding a coin that circulated 380 years ago. They were made to be held, used, spent. I like to see them in their little box. They are mine! My own, my precious! Oops ... And as for your coins Gollum ... my Dad used to pop nice coins into an envelope or fold them in a bit of paper. They kept pretty well like that in an old chocolate box, but his were change pickings. If you have nicer coins then Chris sells little plastic envelopes here on predecimal, or other dealers, acid-free paper ones. Then when you have coins you've spent money on you might consider one of those coin storage trays. They are relatively inexpensive, most systems are designed to stack together and that allows you to organise your coins. Or your coin box idea, though it's a bit of work cutting the holes so your carpentry will need to be better than mine! If you do that, line the holes with felt to avoid friction. But until your collection is a collection and not a drawer full of coins I'd say just enjoy them and don't worry about insurance!

I'm assuming the 'pearliness' is a result of the gilding and how the photo was taken. However, I agree it does look more like a replica than the real thing, due to the depth of the strike, it's ... too perfect. Without seeing it in real life it's impossible to be certain however.