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Posts posted by Paddy

  1. 3 minutes ago, Bronze & Copper Collector said:

    I'll add images when forum software allow me to do so.


    I think the software will let you load more images immediately if you do a refresh of the screen - using the F5 key or the refresh button at the top. Or else come out of the thread and back in should do it. (The software is not clearing the fact that you have already loaded an image and thinks you are trying to load another image alongside your first.)

    This has worked for me in the past.

  2. I have seen this many times before - the plastic used for the packaging on these early £5 coins discoloured very easily and more end up looking gold than not. If you break it out of the package you will find it is still white metal inside.

    Same happens with many of the early Isle of Man Crowns.


    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1

  3. Personally I prefer it repaired. A split coin, as well as unattractive, is difficult to store without the pieces constantly slipping. With coins of this age I am happy to have a decent example clearly displaying the monarch's name, and to have it at an affordable price when so many are now out of my reach.

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  4. 10 hours ago, Peckris 2 said:

    The sharpness of the rim edge is often a good indicator. Also, Geo VI proofs usually have mirrored fields especially FDC examples like yours would be if a proof. However, it could just as easily be an early strike and thus have crisp details.

    I think it is a proof then - it was the mirror-like surfaces that first caught my eye, although they never come through as well in the photos. The edge rim is also very sharp all round.

    It will go into my limited collection labelled as "Proof".


    • Like 1

  5. This penny turned up in amongst a random group of GB and foreign coins. It looks very much like a proof example to me - am I right? Are there any indicators, other than just the quality of the strike, that can confirm or deny this? There was a Halfpenny in the same group, which may also be proof, so they may both have come from a broken set. (Sadly none of the other coins of the set were present!)


    1937 Prf D 1-side.JPG

    • Like 2

  6. They vary enormously. The wrong design for the date is often the biggest. Pics of the edge would be useful too as incorrect or blundered edge lettering is also common in the errors. Weight will usually be right. (If the forgers get that wrong the coin would fail any coin operated machine.) Colour is often odd and gets odder with age as it tarnishes differently from the real thing. Alignment may also be wrong - the genuine item is struck in one go so misaligned obverse and reverse would be almost impossible, but on the fakes, quite likely.