Coinery Posted April 29, 2012 Posted April 29, 2012 Hi,Does anyone have any quality images of Elizabeth I coins that are not protected by copyright? I am so impressed with the book, Elizabeth I, by Brown, Comber & Wilkinson, that I'd like to catalogue as many of the key 'variety identifiers' in photographic form as is humanly possible (busts, roses, shields, leaves, lions, lis, etc.), and create a webpage as a resouirce for any that are interested. I always used to find the line drawings a tad difficult to apply, the penny always dropped when seeing an image of an actual coin.I've chopped out a 4D Bust this evening (below), which needs tweaking, feathering, maybe a little editing, etc. but it's enough to give you an idea of what I'm after.If any images are from coins in your own personal collections, I would happily reference them accordingly.I would be gratefil for anything, even if it's just a rose that is well struck-up, or one single lis on the reverse, even if the rest is an absolute 'dog,' it would still be welcome! If anyone PM's me, I'll surrender my email address for any image files. Many thanks in advance to any who can help and, of course, to any who might be interested. Quote
HistoricCoinage Posted April 30, 2012 Posted April 30, 2012 When I get access to my collection in the latter half of June this is something which I'd very much like to assist with. It's a good idea to have it as a webpage for easy access. Quote
Coinery Posted April 30, 2012 Author Posted April 30, 2012 When I get access to my collection in the latter half of June this is something which I'd very much like to assist with. It's a good idea to have it as a webpage for easy access.That'll be great, the more images to work from the better. I've had a coin-related 'unpublished' domain for some years now, that I've been itching to get out there! Roll on June, then! Thanks Historic Coinage, very much appreciated! Quote
Coinery Posted May 4, 2012 Author Posted May 4, 2012 (edited) Rose 18 Does anybody know if you save an image with a greater dpi whether the image is clearer, as the above picture explodes with greater detail in the original. I saved this at 600dpi...any ideas? What would be a maximum dpi to save at? Edited May 4, 2012 by Coinery Quote
Nick Posted May 4, 2012 Posted May 4, 2012 (edited) Rose 18 Does anybody know if you save an image with a greater dpi whether the image is clearer, as the above picture explodes with greater detail in the original. I saved this at 600dpi...any ideas? What would be a maximum dpi to save at?There is no point increasing the resolution (despite what you see in the movies), you can't just invent something that wasn't there in the first place. Sure you can average neighbouring pixels or interpolate or some other clever algorithm, but what ever you do it won't be an accurate representation.I wouldn't worry, your pictures look better than most do at that zoom level. Edited May 4, 2012 by Nick Quote
Coinery Posted May 4, 2012 Author Posted May 4, 2012 Rose 18 Does anybody know if you save an image with a greater dpi whether the image is clearer, as the above picture explodes with greater detail in the original. I saved this at 600dpi...any ideas? What would be a maximum dpi to save at?There is no point increasing the resolution (despite what you see in the movies), you can't just invent something that wasn't there in the first place. Sure you can average neighbouring pixels or interpolate or some other clever algorithm, but what ever you do it won't be an accurate representation.I wouldn't worry, your pictures look better than most do at that zoom level.Many thanks, Nick.when I converted the cut-out image to jpeg, the program asked me how many pixels I wanted to save it at and, never having played with this stuff before, I wasn't sure what to save it at, I plucked 600 out of thin air. Quote
Danelaw Posted May 4, 2012 Posted May 4, 2012 Hi,Does anyone have any quality images of Elizabeth I coins that are not protected by copyright? I am so impressed with the book, Elizabeth I, by Brown, Comber & Wilkinson, that I'd like to catalogue as many of the key 'variety identifiers' in photographic form as is humanly possible (busts, roses, shields, leaves, lions, lis, etc.), and create a webpage as a resouirce for any that are interested. I always used to find the line drawings a tad difficult to apply, the penny always dropped when seeing an image of an actual coin.I've chopped out a 4D Bust this evening (below), which needs tweaking, feathering, maybe a little editing, etc. but it's enough to give you an idea of what I'm after.If any images are from coins in your own personal collections, I would happily reference them accordingly.I would be gratefil for anything, even if it's just a rose that is well struck-up, or one single lis on the reverse, even if the rest is an absolute 'dog,' it would still be welcome! If anyone PM's me, I'll surrender my email address for any image files. Many thanks in advance to any who can help and, of course, to any who might be interested.That is super impressive. Quote
Nick Posted May 4, 2012 Posted May 4, 2012 (edited) Rose 18 Does anybody know if you save an image with a greater dpi whether the image is clearer, as the above picture explodes with greater detail in the original. I saved this at 600dpi...any ideas? What would be a maximum dpi to save at?There is no point increasing the resolution (despite what you see in the movies), you can't just invent something that wasn't there in the first place. Sure you can average neighbouring pixels or interpolate or some other clever algorithm, but what ever you do it won't be an accurate representation.I wouldn't worry, your pictures look better than most do at that zoom level.Many thanks, Nick.when I converted the cut-out image to jpeg, the program asked me how many pixels I wanted to save it at and, never having played with this stuff before, I wasn't sure what to save it at, I plucked 600 out of thin air.The number of pixels you choose is pretty much irrelevant (unless you choose a small number). How it looks depends on the input DPI, ie a low-resolution blocky input will look the same (just bigger) in high resolution, whereas a high-resolution input will still look reasonable even at low-resolution.The moral is: scan/photograph at the highest DPI you can - you can always throw away some detail later. The opposite is not true. Edited May 4, 2012 by Nick Quote
Coinery Posted May 4, 2012 Author Posted May 4, 2012 Rose 18 Does anybody know if you save an image with a greater dpi whether the image is clearer, as the above picture explodes with greater detail in the original. I saved this at 600dpi...any ideas? What would be a maximum dpi to save at?There is no point increasing the resolution (despite what you see in the movies), you can't just invent something that wasn't there in the first place. Sure you can average neighbouring pixels or interpolate or some other clever algorithm, but what ever you do it won't be an accurate representation.I wouldn't worry, your pictures look better than most do at that zoom level.Many thanks, Nick.when I converted the cut-out image to jpeg, the program asked me how many pixels I wanted to save it at and, never having played with this stuff before, I wasn't sure what to save it at, I plucked 600 out of thin air.The number of pixels you choose is pretty much irrelevant (unless you choose a small number). How it looks depends on the input DPI, ie a low-resolution blocky input will look the same (just bigger) in high resolution, whereas a high-resolution input will still look reasonable even at low-resolution.The moral is: scan/photograph at the highest DPI you can - you can always throw away some detail later. The opposite is not true.OK, I think I'm on the wavelength now, just! :-)Thanks again, Nick! Quote
Nick Posted May 4, 2012 Posted May 4, 2012 Rose 18 Does anybody know if you save an image with a greater dpi whether the image is clearer, as the above picture explodes with greater detail in the original. I saved this at 600dpi...any ideas? What would be a maximum dpi to save at?There is no point increasing the resolution (despite what you see in the movies), you can't just invent something that wasn't there in the first place. Sure you can average neighbouring pixels or interpolate or some other clever algorithm, but what ever you do it won't be an accurate representation.I wouldn't worry, your pictures look better than most do at that zoom level.Many thanks, Nick.when I converted the cut-out image to jpeg, the program asked me how many pixels I wanted to save it at and, never having played with this stuff before, I wasn't sure what to save it at, I plucked 600 out of thin air.The other point that is worth saying is that JPEG isn't the best choice for preserving fine detail. It's mainly used to produce a good quality image with a reasonable amount of compression - which unsurprisingly is popular on the Internet. However, if you want to preserve the finest detail, then TIFF or PNG would be better choices - although the file sizes will be huge in comparison. Quote
Coinery Posted May 4, 2012 Author Posted May 4, 2012 Rose 18 Does anybody know if you save an image with a greater dpi whether the image is clearer, as the above picture explodes with greater detail in the original. I saved this at 600dpi...any ideas? What would be a maximum dpi to save at?There is no point increasing the resolution (despite what you see in the movies), you can't just invent something that wasn't there in the first place. Sure you can average neighbouring pixels or interpolate or some other clever algorithm, but what ever you do it won't be an accurate representation.I wouldn't worry, your pictures look better than most do at that zoom level.Many thanks, Nick.when I converted the cut-out image to jpeg, the program asked me how many pixels I wanted to save it at and, never having played with this stuff before, I wasn't sure what to save it at, I plucked 600 out of thin air.The other point that is worth saying is that JPEG isn't the best choice for preserving fine detail. It's mainly used to produce a good quality image with a reasonable amount of compression - which unsurprisingly is popular on the Internet. However, if you want to preserve the finest detail, then TIFF or PNG would be better choices - although the file sizes will be huge in comparison.I did get those file options, I'll try them out! :-) Quote
Coinery Posted May 4, 2012 Author Posted May 4, 2012 Hi,Does anyone have any quality images of Elizabeth I coins that are not protected by copyright? I am so impressed with the book, Elizabeth I, by Brown, Comber & Wilkinson, that I'd like to catalogue as many of the key 'variety identifiers' in photographic form as is humanly possible (busts, roses, shields, leaves, lions, lis, etc.), and create a webpage as a resouirce for any that are interested. I always used to find the line drawings a tad difficult to apply, the penny always dropped when seeing an image of an actual coin.I've chopped out a 4D Bust this evening (below), which needs tweaking, feathering, maybe a little editing, etc. but it's enough to give you an idea of what I'm after.If any images are from coins in your own personal collections, I would happily reference them accordingly.I would be gratefil for anything, even if it's just a rose that is well struck-up, or one single lis on the reverse, even if the rest is an absolute 'dog,' it would still be welcome! If anyone PM's me, I'll surrender my email address for any image files. Many thanks in advance to any who can help and, of course, to any who might be interested.That is super impressive.Much appreciated, thank-you! I'm going to try and get all the silver punches covered! I've even thought of having, say 3 images of the same bust, but at deteriorating grades, just to make it even easier for others to compare their own coins, and perhaps get just a little bit excited to find they have Groat CC-1M:CC-b5 rather than just a Bust 1F Cross-Crosslet Groat. I was really surprised to find so many different die pairings in the Elizabeth series (26 different Bust 1F Cross-Crosslet Groats for example), all so easily identifiable by the combination of different punches used to make up the dies. Surprisingly grotty coins can be attributed by using a process of illimination, breathing new life into a stagnating collection I think. It's certainly rekindled my own interest in planchet Blanchet, if only Elizabeth looked like that! Quote
Coinery Posted May 5, 2012 Author Posted May 5, 2012 Following on from my proposed 3 differing grade images of each punch, can I ask what would be your own preference if you were viewing the said images in a book or webpage? Using the following lower-grade image as an example, would you think it better to 'keep it real,' namely scratches on the bust, or removal with software for a more aesthetically pleasing picture? Quote
argentumandcoins Posted May 7, 2012 Posted May 7, 2012 If this is any good you can use the image Quote
Coinery Posted May 7, 2012 Author Posted May 7, 2012 If this is any good you can use the imageThat would be very kind, thank-you, I was just beginning to feel a little lonely on this thread!:-) Would you mind if I had the original full-resolution images to work from, could I see if there's a Lis, lion, or privy mark, on the reverse I might be able to use? I'll PM my email address if you're happy!That's great, very much appreciated! Quote
argentumandcoins Posted May 7, 2012 Posted May 7, 2012 If this is any good you can use the imageThat would be very kind, thank-you, I was just beginning to feel a little lonely on this thread!:-) Would you mind if I had the original full-resolution images to work from, could I see if there's a Lis, lion, or privy mark, on the reverse I might be able to use? I'll PM my email address if you're happy!That's great, very much appreciated!Yes feel free and I will send the pics. The reverse is 1561 dated and grades around VF as well. Quote
Coinery Posted May 7, 2012 Author Posted May 7, 2012 If this is any good you can use the imageThat would be very kind, thank-you, I was just beginning to feel a little lonely on this thread!:-) Would you mind if I had the original full-resolution images to work from, could I see if there's a Lis, lion, or privy mark, on the reverse I might be able to use? I'll PM my email address if you're happy!That's great, very much appreciated!Yes feel free and I will send the pics. The reverse is 1561 dated and grades around VF as well.Excellent! I couldn't PM you, perhaps your inbox is full, so I've contacted you via your website. Thanks, again! Quote
Coinery Posted May 7, 2012 Author Posted May 7, 2012 If this is any good you can use the imageBA-1D:BA-a (Large-Flan) 3d Bust3F...Nice clear example of the broken lis punch 8 (3), and of the broken shield (bottom joint). Quote
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