Hi Sion I think the setup and lighting is more important than the camera. I use a Canon PowerShot A480, mounted on a little 8" tripod, pointing straight down, and two lights - a 6400K daylight bulb, and a yellower halogen angle poise. Position at 10 o'clock and 2 o'clock, but not so close as to cause glare on the coin. The idea is, the blue of the daylight bulb cancels out the yellow of the halogen. I raise the coin to the point where it fills the screen without using digital zoom. Move the lights as high as you can without the camera casting its own shadow on the coin. Lights too low and the light will rake across the surface of the coin and the shot will be unattractively grainy. Break the "No digital zoom" rule if you have to, just to get the lights higher, particularly with small coins. Threehalfpence have to be the most difficult coins to get right. Once you're happy with the lighting, set the camera up. Super Macro if you have it. I use ISO 100 (lower the better - too high and grainyness creeps back in). Exposure slightly up, just a fraction - the smallest increment over 0 you can get. Shutter timer to 2 sec. No flash. Then, get a piece of white printer paper and slide it over the coin so all you can see on the camera screen is white. Get the camera to recalibrate its white balance on that, then take the sheet away. I use a black background under the coin as it reduces stray light bouncing all over the shop. All set. Once you've taken the photos and imported them, take the time to crop and rotate, and maybe even remove the background. I replace it with a jet black one but that's just taste I think, not science. The results will probably be enormous files. I resize down to 1000x1000 pixels to deal with that, but I'm toying with the idea of increasing that to 1500x1500 maybe. Disk space is cheap. hope that helps!