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Oxford_Collector

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  1. Hi - I mostly collect 1816-1936 English silver (and silver from that other place that claims to speak English, but I'll keep quiet about that for now...), but to date the only coin reference book I have is the Rotographic one (I have a 2011 copy), much of my other research I've carried out in the internet or the local library. I almost got the the new Spink book, but then thought that perhaps much of it won't be of relevance to me, though the 2011 copy in the local library does seem to have nice photographs. Also I hear the prices in there are "optimistic" (from a sellers point of view). The new book by Groom - "The Identification of British 20th Century Silver Coin Varieties" looks very good, but of course doesn't cover the 19th century... I've borrowed a copy of Davies - "British Silver Coins" from the library and it definitely covers my period in some detail, but I don't know that I actually *need* all the detailed variety information it gives, the pictures aren't very good and I'm not sure I like the way its organised. Also the prices are of course well out of date, except as relative prices, perhaps. How does Davies compare to Seaby "English Silver Coinage from 1649" as a book (as opposed to just detail about varieties)? Unfortunately my library doesn't seem to have this, so I've not been able to check it out properly, apart from glancing at it in a coin shop, though the idea of having rarity ratings, rather than actual prices, seems quite a good idea for a reference work. Also I guess I *might* venture pre-1816 at some point... Ideally I guess I should get both Davies and Seaby, but my collection is not really large enough to justify this (yet...) Lastly - what's the best price guide book (for prices I would expect to pay a dealer) to complement ESC or Davies- there's Spink, the Rotographic book, the Coin Yearbook, and British Coin Market values. To date I have been using a combination of the Rotographic book, Tony Clayton's website and keeping an eye on prices on dealer's websites and eBay, but some other source would be useful, to avoid paying over the odds for things and to make realistic bids on eBay etc.. Thanks!
  2. Hi - does anyone have any inventory spreadsheet template I could adapt for my collection, rather than starting from scratch? There are a few on the internet I've seen, but they mostly seem to be setup for US coins only (not that I have anything against US coins, I fact I collect them alongside English coinage...). Thanks!
  3. I can totally see where you're coming from, and would not necessarily expect all my coins to be untoned, especially opre-20th century specimens, but for more recent examples, such as my pre-1965 US silver and George V silver, which I've so far mostly bought untoned, would prefer them to remain that way. I also agree some toning can be appealing, for example I have an uncirculated 1914 sixpence which has full lustre, but also a tinge of very attractive golden toning (was like this when I bought it), whereas the 1917 3D I mentioned has had some of its lustre now obscured by patchy black toning, which really doesn't look so great IMHO.
  4. Am thinking about maybe trying these "RP Oxygen Absorbing Scavengers" in the boxes where my coins are stored: - they sound like the next step up from silica gel sachets: http://www.conservation-by-design.co.uk/category.aspx?id=405 "Mitsubishi RPA ‘stops the clock’ on the sources of corrosion and oxidation of metals through a chemical reaction that removes oxygen, moisture and corrosive gases from sealed containers. It is used in metal conservation and other applications where a low RH is required"
  5. Thanks for all the information, I do realise that toning is perhaps inevitable for silver coins, especially for pre-20th Century ones, but I really would like the do what I can (within reason) to slow the toning process for coins that I have bought untoned or with minimal toning, and in most cases, I don't think I really want to resort to dipping. Would keeping the coins in a airtight box help? Or would this cause more harm than good if, say, the box was plastic?? Does using silica gel sachets to try to keep moisture out actually make any difference? Has anyone tried using the InterceptShield products or similar? Any other tips remaining? Thanks again.
  6. Scratch that itch with postdecimal proof sets! Seriously, they go at auction for no more than half their Spink listed value, they are nice and shiny, and they don't cost a bomb. In fact, when I start looking out some coins for you, I intend to offload some of my proof sets - how does 1974 1975 and 1976 grab you? And maybe one of 1978 or 1979 into the bargain. I bought 6 sets for £15 and 10 predecimal sets for £4 from a postcard fair...they will sit there gathering dust...although one set is BU...can't resist a bargain...offers please in a plain envelope (John can supply cheap envelopes ) Do you mean the blue wallets? I'd say 40p each wasn't a bad price (just over twice face value) - if you can find any buyers! You can't usually find proof sets at £2.50 each -what dates were they? Yep the blue ones.& the proof sets were late 70's (some toned) over 30 years old now.They are a thing that I don't collect but have aquired.I found some old foreign unc sets from the 60's.They sold them in Smiths. As a side collection, I've started to collect pre-1965 US proof sets (working from 1964 backwards - have only reached 1961 so far, though...), the sets can be got relatively cheaply (recently bought a perfect condition 1962 set for only £10 on eBay! The silver content alone is worth more than that, though that really was a bargain) and the 1/2 Dollar, 1/4 dollar and 10 cents coins are 90% silver - I have problems with seeing base metal "silver" coins as real coins for some reason (though don't have this issue with copper...) Only silver coins I have are a 1964 and 1965 kennedy half dollar and a couple of sixpences. Probably not worth a great deal as silver goes. Only the 1964 Kennedy half dollar is 90% silver, the 1965-1970 issues had an outer layer of 80% silver and 20% copper but an inner layer of 20% silver and 80% copper, think it averages out at 40% silver or something like that - a bit like the 50% 1920-1945 50% British Silver I guess! I don't like em anyway, matter of honour, it aint british old chap. Still it's a coin. LOL! Well they're sort of British, lost colony and all that ;-)
  7. Thanks, I'll investigate, though it sounds a little drastic. Another option I guess is for something like the Intercept Shieldsystem, though they only seem to do either boxes for NGC/PCGS slabs or 2x2s for individual US coins or albums for US coins. Mind you, US coins are the "dark side" of my coin collecting habit, so might be useful for me...
  8. I know, but I'm a sucker for the designs on the early to mid 20th Century US coins and they were real silver right up to 1964...
  9. Scratch that itch with postdecimal proof sets! Seriously, they go at auction for no more than half their Spink listed value, they are nice and shiny, and they don't cost a bomb. In fact, when I start looking out some coins for you, I intend to offload some of my proof sets - how does 1974 1975 and 1976 grab you? And maybe one of 1978 or 1979 into the bargain. I bought 6 sets for £15 and 10 predecimal sets for £4 from a postcard fair...they will sit there gathering dust...although one set is BU...can't resist a bargain...offers please in a plain envelope (John can supply cheap envelopes ) Do you mean the blue wallets? I'd say 40p each wasn't a bad price (just over twice face value) - if you can find any buyers! You can't usually find proof sets at £2.50 each -what dates were they? Yep the blue ones.& the proof sets were late 70's (some toned) over 30 years old now.They are a thing that I don't collect but have aquired.I found some old foreign unc sets from the 60's.They sold them in Smiths. As a side collection, I've started to collect pre-1965 US proof sets (working from 1964 backwards - have only reached 1961 so far, though...), the sets can be got relatively cheaply (recently bought a perfect condition 1962 set for only £10 on eBay! The silver content alone is worth more than that, though that really was a bargain) and the 1/2 Dollar, 1/4 dollar and 10 cents coins are 90% silver - I have problems with seeing base metal "silver" coins as real coins for some reason (though don't have this issue with copper...) Only silver coins I have are a 1964 and 1965 kennedy half dollar and a couple of sixpences. Probably not worth a great deal as silver goes. Only the 1964 Kennedy half dollar is 90% silver, the 1965-1970 issues had an outer layer of 80% silver and 20% copper but an inner layer of 20% silver and 80% copper, think it averages out at 40% silver or something like that - a bit like the 50% 1920-1945 50% British Silver I guess!
  10. Scratch that itch with postdecimal proof sets! Seriously, they go at auction for no more than half their Spink listed value, they are nice and shiny, and they don't cost a bomb. In fact, when I start looking out some coins for you, I intend to offload some of my proof sets - how does 1974 1975 and 1976 grab you? And maybe one of 1978 or 1979 into the bargain. I bought 6 sets for £15 and 10 predecimal sets for £4 from a postcard fair...they will sit there gathering dust...although one set is BU...can't resist a bargain...offers please in a plain envelope (John can supply cheap envelopes ) Do you mean the blue wallets? I'd say 40p each wasn't a bad price (just over twice face value) - if you can find any buyers! You can't usually find proof sets at £2.50 each -what dates were they? Yep the blue ones.& the proof sets were late 70's (some toned) over 30 years old now.They are a thing that I don't collect but have aquired.I found some old foreign unc sets from the 60's.They sold them in Smiths. As a side collection, I've started to collect pre-1965 US proof sets (working from 1964 backwards - have only reached 1961 so far, though...), the sets can be got relatively cheaply (recently bought a perfect condition 1962 set for only £10 on eBay! The silver content alone is worth more than that, though that really was a bargain) and the 1/2 Dollar, 1/4 dollar and 10 cents coins are 90% silver - I have problems with seeing base metal "silver" coins as real coins for some reason (though don't have this issue with copper...)
  11. Hi - I'm interested in collecting pre-1965 US silver (and gold, when I can afford it...) coinage (though also collect British silver), I've managed to pick up a few US pieces from Michael Coins in Nottinghill, but high quality examples seem to be hard to come by in the UK and importing from the USA risks VAT and import taxes being applied (and I'd prefer to be able to look at the coins in person before buying, if possible). Is there anywhere in the South East (especially near Oxford or London) that sells good-quality US coins? I'm particularly interested in Peace Dollars and Walking Liberty halves, but also Standing Liberty Quarters and Mercury Dimes. BTW for British Silver, I'm mostly interested in florins from Victoria to George V.
  12. I agree it looks hideous, but not all coins need a face value - e.g. Mexican Libertad silver bullion coins have no face value, though they do state the amount and purity of silver they contain and the year and are not unattractive coins.
  13. I have a small collection of silver coins, mostly 1816-1920 British silver (mostly late Victorian onwards), though also a small collection of pre-1965 US silver coinage and some modern bullion silver 1 OZ coins. Most of these coins have no or minimal toning (which is how I prefer them), and I don't think any of them have been cleaned (or if they have been, not obviously), but a small number of coins that I bought untoned, including what was a BUNC 1917 3D and some shillings of around the same vintage *have* become quite heavily darkly toned after just a few years of ownership. What tips do people have to prevent silver from toning? Most of my coins are now kept in 2x2 self-adhesive acid-free cardboard flips with a mylar "window", and then these are stored in Numis coin albums (am not sure if the coin album pages are PVC or not, but was thinking this shouldn't be an issue if the coins are in the 2x2s?). The coin albums are kept in a cardboard box (not sure if this is acid-free or not) into which I've put loads of silica gel sachets to try to absorb moisture. The room in which the coins are kept is reasonably cool and dry. I like the 2x2s for safe ease of handling of the coins, but is it okay to keep silver coins in these, especially if the 2x2s are then put into a (possibly PVC) album? Does putting silica gel sachets amongst the coin albums make any sense or is this pointless? I can't afford (or have space for) a "proper" coin cabinet, and would prefer to keep the coins in 2x2s and in albums if possible, but want these to be off the "safest" sort for long term storage. Also, does the box that the albums live in need be made of special "archival-quality" acid-free cardboard? What other tips do people have for preventing silver coins from toning? Thanks! As for the toned 3D coin and shillings, is there anything gentle that can be done to remove to toning, or is anything I do likely to do more harm than good? Thanks!
  14. Okay, am still interested, will check out how much postage would cost me, then will get back to you. Apparently via Royal Mail, second class postage up to 1Kg would be £2.70 (but no insurance, I think), or £4.41 for a standard parcel (with £100 compensation for an extra £1) - which do you think would be my best option? Thanks Paul
  15. Okay, am still interested, will check out how much postage would cost me, then will get back to you.
  16. I could be tempted, would you cover postage? Have just double checked, this is what comprises the collection: 24 Half-Crowns 29 Florins 33 Shillings 19 Sixpence 1 3d I Make that £8.0375 face value Paul
  17. stick 'em on eBay as a single lot, Paul - you can't touch it for reaching as many coinies as possible in one hit I was wondering if that might just be the best approach. BTW are there any "desirable dates" (1920-1946) I should look out for, as possible candidates for selling singly, if in nice condition?
  18. Hi - I've inherited from my grandfather a (lined) tobacco tin full of "scrap" pre-1947 British 50% Silver coins, about £8 face value worth (about 895g / 31.5 oz total weight, or about 447.5g/15.75 oz of actual silver) - in the tin was a note saying "Note - Real Silver Coins to 1946, keep for future generations", so he must have collected these together deliberately! I say "scrap", though they're actually in a range of conditions all the way from a few very worn Good/Fine examples to some very nice EF+ specimens, though most are somewhere in between. They're mostly half-crowns, florins and shillings, though also a fair few sixpences and a single 3d coin. A few of them are pre-1920 (sterling silver), though these are all very worn. Where would be a good place to sell these for a fair price (and what would be a fair price, given that silver is about £10.80/oz at the moment)?? There seem to be many "we buy scrap silver" rip-off merchants advertising online, but I don't have the time or patience to sell these individually on eBay etc., though no doubt could raise more if I sold the better ones off singly. Any advice would be most welcome! Thanks Paul
  19. I'm surprised they fit back in the case after putting them in coin capsules, it doesn't look like there's room in the case I have...
  20. I've quite recently acquired a couple of older proof and Maundy coin sets, where the coins are stored in their original padded cases, but are not protected in any other way (i.e. they're not encapsulated). Do you think its safe to just store them in their cases, or are they more likely to lose their lustre and become toned (most the coins are silver) unless I stored the coins out of the cases in capsules/2x2 flips/acid-free envelopes? Do you think having a few silica gel sachets in the same draw as the coins are stored in would help matters at all, as far as long-term storage goes? I do intend to take the coins out and examine them from time to time, obviously! Thanks
  21. I have a 1918 Bombay sovereign, on my scales it weighs in at 8.01g. I would grade it as Good Extra Fine. I bought it for £88 in an eBay auction last autumn. Definitely doesn't look like a fake, I've no idea how to tell if its a restrike or not. BTW as far as I'm aware, whilst not common, its not that rare a sovereign - see: http://www.andyscouse.com/coins/sovereign_gv.htm and http://allgoldcoins.co.uk/allgold/informat...eign_rarity.htm, certainly more common than the Canadian sovereigns, and I've seen them in eBay (albeit not in as good a grade). Paul
  22. Silver pennies were made in 2000 and 2006, in both years box sets containing silver versions of circulating coins, maundy coins and a £5 crown were produced in limited numbers (e.g. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...em=230074074453). But I'm unaware of any silver pennies in 1999. Hope this helps Paul
  23. Apparently before 1909 "anybody could order set of Maundy Money from a bank, however in 1908, King Edward VII ordered that they should only be supplied to their recipients and people connected with the service, so coins dated 1909 and later are considerably scarcer than those which preceded them" Also "under a special privilege granted by Queen Elizabeth I, students in the youngest class of Westminster School also received Maundy coins, but this was discontinued in the 1970s." So its not just recently where it has not just been issued to the 'poor' at the ceremony... (both citations are from Wikipedia) BTW I also thought this point was interesting: "The original composition of the coins was Sterling (0.925) silver. In common with all circulating British silver coins, the fineness was reduced to 0.500 in 1921 [weren't most reduced in 1920? - Paul]. In 1947, silver was removed from all circulating British coins in favour of cupronickel, but it was felt to be inappropriate to strike Maundy money in such debased metal, so unusually the fineness was restored to 0.925, where it remains to the present day." So Maundy Money was only debased to 0.500 silver from 1921-1946, I don't know about anyone else, but I've got a thing about not collecting silver coinage that's less than 0.925 silver (0.900 for foreign coins), so usually avoid anything after 1920, I'd assumed Maundy Money had stayed debased, but apparently not. Would now quite like to obtain a Maundy set for the year of my birth (1969), may have to look into this... Paul
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