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Everything posted by Rob

  1. Like this you mean. The brown one was PCGS MS64BN! (overgraded IMHO). The red one is NGC MS65BN (bigger !! as the colour is graded incorrectly with only the purple patches showing light toning. The obverse incidentally has nearly 90% lustre). Two allegedly close grades separated by a bigger gulf than the differences between English english and American english. Sorry I had to chop a picture, but the file size was too big. Second image to follow this posting
  2. Get a pair of heavy duty pincers, the ones that form a complete outer curve with a broad blade and cut the corner off. Then work your way down the inside rims of the slab a bit at a time. Eventually it will come apart. You need a heavy duty pair to make a cut at one point rather than shatter the plastic and potentially damage the coin. The plastic is quite workable if you do in steps of a few mms. In case you were thinking of it, a hammer or a bigger hammer is not appropriate.
  3. Given that the obverse is dire although the reverse looks a bit better, I wouldn't go as far as £100. I'd leave it as there are much better examples out there without rim marks. It's probably worth £100-125 as it the obv. struggles to get to fine although the rev is probably good fine IMHO. The pictures could be better.
  4. PCGS is one of a number of companies that offer a grading service, mostly they are based in America. PCGS, NGC & ANACS are all such bodies. They inspect the coin and assign a grade to it. There are a lot of people who don't have that much confidence in the grades applied and this is discussed elsewhere on this forum. Essentially, people submit their coin for assessment regarding the amount of wear to these companies. They will then give an opinion on grade. All pieces will be given a number of 70 or less. It will have a prefix of F, VF, EF, AU, MS for currency and PF or PR for proofs and patterns. In the case of copper and bronze coins there will be a RD, RB or B®N to distinguish how much if any of the original colour is present. Roughly speaking, M(int)S(tate)63 is a British uncirculated. Coins are submitted by individuals for grading. If someone wants to know why it hasn't been certified, it suggests that they know nothing about coins and are looking to buy them as an investment rather than as a collector. Some people, particularly in America only trust certified coins and I suspect haven't got a clue how to grade accurately. Unfortunately, the grades applied to some pieces in the eyes of collectors, me included, are somewhat suspect. Anyone who takes the grading as gospel without personally assessing the grade is rather deluded. They don't even get the date right all the time! Have you applied a grade based on the American system to the coin?
  5. They were struck at Matthew Boulton's Soho mint in 1797 to a design by Conrad Kuechler and along with the penny were the first currency pieces struck using steam power designed by James Watt to drive the machinery. The penny and twopence contained 1 and 2 ounces of copper respectively, as the coinage to that date was based on an intrinsic value of metal. It was not popular due to the weight and both issues were only struck dated that year. The initial contract to produce the coins was for 500 tons of copper into 20 tons of 2d and 480 tons of 1d, the copper provided by Boulton at £108/ton. They were legal tender up to 1 shilling. A similar contract was agreed the following year with possibly others subsequent to this. So at least 1000 tons of cartwheel currency pieces were produced. That's a lot of copper. They are not rare except in top grade as currency pieces. Also, there are between 15 and 20 pattern and proof varieties of this design, but they are all at least very scarce, tend to be found in perfect or near perfect condition and are quite expensive. Values are always dependent on condition and can range from a few pounds to upwards of £500 for a top grade coin. The proofs and patterns start at about £500 or maybe just under if you are lucky. If you post a picture, we can give an idea of grade.
  6. Help please. Brass, 21.7mm diameter, 1.4mm thick and weighs 3.54g. It has a milled rim. There could be an A on the truncation where WW would normally be and possibly something else but it is indistinct. I don't have a copy of Hocking, so if anyone does could they please have a look. The legend screams medal or colonial, but 1861 doesn't seem to tie in with any colonial issues. Thoughts please anybody.
  7. There are no signs of it being cast
  8. I initially thought medal because of the different beading to the two sides, but the presence of a milled edge is not what you would associate with a medal. The double filleted bust is definitely wyonesque, just a marginally different profile. The shape of the 1s in the date are not right for mint output either. The base is too thin.
  9. On the whole, most people in this world are honest - even on ebay. With only 2 exceptions, when a coin has not been as described or the picture misleading, I have always had a full refund when requested whether the seller offered it or not in his listing.
  10. The completely OTT prices aren't a problem. The problem is the dodgy photos, the slightly fuzzy ones which appear to show the features of the rarity you're looking for, but in reality are just the bog standard version. People seeing what they want to see is the problem when paying over the odds. On this piece, one must presume the elevated price is just a reflection of the additional work he has put in to make sure you can see the whole coin and on both sides. Usually, he only gives you a picture of 60% of the coin, and fuzzy at that, so I automatically ignore his listings.
  11. Sorry, I should have said discerning collector.
  12. I've got a super-duper mega UNC love token at a bargain price of only £249.99 if anybody is interested. A must for the discening collector.
  13. Rob

    Housing Sovereigns

    Hi Peter. I keep all mine in trays, but I'm getting to the point where I refuse to buy any more storage space. A clear out is necessary!! As regards information in the event of my demise, I have put it all in a database including pictures of all the rare or EF or better bits which tie in with the tickets and should provide Mrs. Rob or the kids to sort out what is what so that provenances don't get lost and rare varieties don't get sold for a quid. It gets a bit bulky in terms of storage space on the computer, but at least you can keep all the info, more than you could write on a 2x2 space.
  14. Rob

    Housing Sovereigns

    Surely if you wouldn't use 100% plastic flips, you wouldn't choose to use cardboard/plastic window types either. Self sealing flips have the added disadvantage of solvent vapours being present, which incidentally should improve the mobility of the plasticiser if used and help it leach out. Sorry, that was me.
  15. Rob

    Housing Sovereigns

    Plasticisers are added to virtually all man made polymers in order to make them flexible as they are quite brittle and inflexible otherwise. It is this that leaches out over time and can react with the metal and is why all plastic should be avoided.
  16. Rob

    Housing Sovereigns

    It depends on whether you like to look at them or not. If they are just going to be stored in a box in a safe, then 2x2 acid free paper envelopes for coins are fine. If you enjoy looking at them, use coin storage trays as you then avoid the potential problem of dropping them when you get them out of the envelopes and they look nicer like this. Either way they must be stored such that they don't come into contact with each other.
  17. Thanks Kuhli, that isn't a million miles from Burma so could explain how he acquired it. Now for my next question. What does all the inscription mean?
  18. I thought it could be Burmese or Singalese although 4 armed women and lotus flowers strongly suggests India. It belonged to my father and he probably picked it up in the far east after the war. When he was released from a POW camp in Thailand at the end of the war, he returned home via Rangoon and Columbo hence the above assumption. The other thing that struck me is that it could be a railway token of some sort. NR - Northern Railway or National Railway. There is or was a Northern Railway in India. Burma used Indian coins until full independence in 1948, Ceylon used regal issues.
  19. And the other side. thanks.
  20. help please. what is it?
  21. I don't think she would be so stupid as to list a silver halfpenny with buy it now @ £28. Suggest it has been obviously silvered when seen in the hand with probable test scratches on the edge - out of sight. Either that or it has been heavily polished and the colour balance changed. It would also be described as silver if it was. She sells enough to know that silver 1/2ds are not the norm.
  22. Rob

    Coin Insurance

    Try your house contents insurer first as an add on to the policy. Some will cover collections and some won't. If they do cover collections, they are invariably classed as a specified item with an insured value which you will have to monitor to ensure it is up to date to prevent under insurance. They will require proof of value, so keep all your receipts as a basic precaution to prove you spent the money in the first place. Given the time value of money, you should find if you have bought well that the collection has a higher value than that paid, so if you want to insure for full market value you will have to get a regularly updated valuation done by a third party such as a reputable dealer or similar. If you go down this route your premiums will increase proportionately and they generally seem to be a bit less than 1% of the collection value. Depending on the total value they will demand various levels of security on the doors and windows and if high enough may demand a full blown system with Red Care or similar where the alarm is connected to a monitoring company together with an insistence that they be kept in a safe. If a safe is required, get one that is big enough not to be portable, otherwise a thief would simply walk off with it and open it later.
  23. Rob

    Automatic toner

    Here we go. A dozen or so pieces all Charles 1st hammered, all cleaned and now retoned. One item is lot no. 8314352465 if the following link doesn't work. charles 1st 1/-
  24. Rob

    Automatic toner

    Don't forget the other two products for sale. item nos. 3978798869 and 3978801028
  25. To give an idea of value you will have to post a picture. However, 1925 is one of the rarest years for half crowns in the last century. Hopefully it won't have been cleaned as this will detract from its value considerably. If it is uncleaned, unworn and with no knocks or marks to speak of i.e. in top grade you will be looking at a sum well into 3 figures. Condition will be everything.