TomGoodheart

Yeah, I just set a maximum I want to go to and adjust for fees. Last purchase at Noonans, with the 5% supplement (because the seller was in the US), the additions came to just over 1/3 of my bid. I paid within my budget, but it meant less for the seller. As a collector, I just look at the overall price I have to pay. But I imagine it makes it difficult for dealers who will need to add their cut, unless they have the resources to hold onto stuff for a few years, to compete.

No, I just save any images of coin tickets I think might be useful later and this was one I spotted. The other ticket is a Baldwins one in Michael Sharp's hand. Hopefully both are still with the coin.

Cool. Thanks! I'll update my records.

So this (larger one) is Chris Comer, Stu?

Is the other (neater hand) ticket not John Jerrams? Or am I confused?

Yup. Left ticket (which looks grey to me and written in fountain pen) looks like Comber's writing to me too.

You might find your supermarket has a bin for them? Or if there's a larger stationary shop local to you?

😂

Gold doesn't tarnish. And gloves can make you clumsy. Dropping a coin like that is more risk than fingerprints to the edge that would clean if required.

On balance, I'd say yes. But the difference in focus and lighting meant I had to do a lot of checking! And yes the top looks mushy, but I assume it's out of focus. Can you buy it at the price of the top one? Because with that photo it should really be a lot lower than the price of the lower one!

Yes, definitely add Noonans. Davissons in the US do a regular list and auctions. There are different specialisms amongst auctioneers, some you may find better for what you want to collect than others. A quick search of coinarchives.com, numisbids.com and mcsearch.com (acsearch for ancients/mediaeval) might help there. Dealers similarly. Mike Vosper for ancients, Lloyd Bennet has a good selection including more modern pieces, AMR coins for good higher end. If you look at their sold archive you'll see if what you want features regularly enough. Many dealers will accept a 'wants' list, which might be worth considering?

Greetings and welcome back JMD!

I think the only way to tell at this stage will be to make the purchase and see what happens. You're prepared for the worst anyway. I suspect if you don't get it for the 'original' price it might be time consuming and eventually fruitless to go the legal route, but a reputable dealer would surely be prepared to be flexible given the circumstances?

No idea about contract legalities, but very poor form and I sympathise with your annoyance,. My thoughts, in no particular order. How do you forget you have an item on your website when you list it on ebay and not remember to check what you were asking? I have always found that dealers are quite happy to offer items for less off ebay as it reduces their costs, so I'd at least anticipate a reduction from the £3500! The longer a dealer has an item on their site unsold the more I would expect them to discount it! Unsold = no profit and funds tied up. And if it hasn't sold at the web price, they're just chancing it with hiking it that much on ebay! And this particular case, I'm guessing; A: Like in a shop that has forgotten to re-price an item, they aren't obliged to sell to you. But until it sells at the higher price its value is not established. If I'd already paid, I'd just ask for my money back. In six months time, if it hasn't sold and you still want it, make an offer. Unless you really want it and think the price is still reasonable. I'd still haggle as they've avoided eBay costs and fees. 20% down from the ebay price might be a starting point? B: No contract has been entered into and the price is open to negotiation. I suspect that's always the case, just that many retailers will honour an incorrect lower price if it isn't hugely out to preserve customer goodwill. Though as the economy gets worse, just like John Lewis and their 'never knowingly undersold' promise, I imagine many will review this if they haven't already.

I think the thing is the museum's vase will nowadays be 'restored' in a way that's completely reversible. Unless someone like Barry makes individual pieces to fit into the jigsaw of your coin and then glues it all together a 'restoration' will involve metalwork. If you had infinite resources you could get the gaps filled in gold to make clear the original pieces but the cost might be more than you want to pay! However, I'm pretty sure Barry can make the pieces into one item if that will please you - though probably it'll cost more than you paid for the pieces - with one proviso. Personally I'm not 100% the two larger pieces are from the same coin as I can't get the obverse to match up when the reverse is aligned. Though I admit I don't have them in the hand and digitally moving them around isn't easy. Maybe pop the two pieces on some sellotape? If you can't get them to really match no amount of restoration will do any better.

If it were complete Barry could use whatever reversible glue is currently acceptable for restoration. But incomplete he would have to build a 'new' coin. You'd have to decide whether you want details in the currently 'empty' areas or not. And in the end you'll have a coin that will be heavily restored. So 'worth putting back together'? If it makes you happy, perhaps. Financially, not if you think it'll restore what you have to near the cost of a full coin. It might even devalue it in the eyes of some (people don't always appreciate restorations). But your choice in the end. I don't have an email address for Barry but his number is 07541 853425 I understand.

London Coins? The people I paid for a subscription to their auction catalogue and, despite several reminders, never received any? Pft. Are they still going?

Mmm .. I'm struggling to put together the two largest pieces here I'm afraid, let alone ID, though it's not really my area. Stephen, Watford type? Trouble is it's incomplete, so even though someone like Barry Sherlock might be able to do something with it, it's never going to be a complete coin.

I think the attached shows what you could call cabinet friction. The edge where it protrudes from the rest of the design. Of course, it's just wear. And I suspect the term is used less frequently these days. Probably more significant on milled coinage as that was supposedly more 'perfect' to start with. I'd call it 'light wear to high points' myself. And more likely on coins that have been in dealers' drawers for some time where there's been regular opening and closing (this coin ex Michael Sharp and probably Baldwins) than us collectors who probably don't access our collections every day.

Very recognisable as a regular on eBay. The plugged piercing is a real give-away. I'd really have expected CNG to know this. 😡