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Posts posted by damian1986

  1. Just curious if anyone has any examples of some higher grade bronze or copper pieces (including the decimal 1 and 2 pence) the result of striking errors, in particular:

    • Brockage 
    • Clipped planchet
    • Off-center strikes
    • Coins mistakenly struck on a bronze or copper planchet

    These are the sorts of things you see on eBay either as spurious or overpriced - and generally in too low a grade; not often do they appear in auctions (which I can't keep up to date with anyway) or dealers' lists. 

    Shouldn't be too difficult finding these for anything 20th century but never seen anything I'm happy with.

    This'd do (weakness at opposite side also clear, shown marked):


    This would definitely do:


    Undersized flan:



  2. On 12/4/2015 at 2:45 PM, SWANNY said:

    "Like anything of value and being highly collectible, it is probably only a matter of time before criminals decide to copy these coins and pass them off as originals. This is why I have decided to have my coins independently assessed and graded."

    There's your answer :lol: it's because of all those criminals minting £20 coins that can't be spent. 

    These coins in and of themselves aren't going to shift at those prices but if you package them up nicely and stick a label on then you've got a product that's easier to market - not forgetting to throw in a bit of spiel about their supposed investment value. 

    It used to always piss me off too seeing coins I wanted to buy being slabbed and (in my opinion) overpriced, but meh there are so many coins out there just buy something else instead and wait for the next one to come along.

    Or starting building a cricket library, it's a cheaper way of being an anorak. ^_^

    Merry christmas all. 


  3. Is there a £100 limit on coins listed for sale in the forums? I have a few that I'd let go cheaply to members. Not sure how much interest there'd be. Regardless eBay is not the place to be. Sold an Edward I penny on eBay best offer was way below asking price but he informed me that he was going to be charged £22 for shipping via eBay's Global Shipping Programme :unsure:

  4. It's interesting, we will all have different priorities for our own finite pots of money. Perhaps it's whatever gives us the most bang for the buck (to build on Damian's quote above).

    I'm a sucker for engine noise, steering feel and a capable chassis...

    Back to Non's coins - the 1817 halfcrown is my favourite. Just lovely!

    It's a car I've admired for a good while. As it goes, the '06 models are still up at around £15k - £20k which is good going for the age IMO. I drive an RX8, good fun until it starts to whinge. These depreciated massively as no one wants to run them :o

    Anyway sorry for the thread hijack Nons. You mentioned a couple are slightly down on grade but you're picking up coins with decent eye appeal IMHO. Can't beat a bit of good honest toning.

  5. Just put a coin through CGS UK to confirm it was not a fake

    Came back with "Reject - re-toned"

    Now here is the problem :- the coin has been slabbed , should I remove it from the slab so it can re-tone normally ?


  6. The advice not to buy too readily is good except I think it gets a bit boring if you're not buying or lining up purchases.

    For some people requirements are going to be set in stone at the very outset - "I'm building a collection of X" - but I think for most people this changes.

    Collecting without goals or specific interests doesn't really work because then you ask "What's next?" and the answer could be any nice coin that comes along. At the same time pinning down a set of goals that will keep you happy is difficult because over time you're going to buy coins you get fed up of, coins you still drool over but can't find "a place for", and coins that you would never once have imagined being prepared to buy or had any knowledge of.

    A few things I find important to remind myself:

    • Your collection doesn't have a target audience, and probably never will.
    • Don't look at your coins all nicely lined up in trays, you'll start to spot bad apples and forget why you bought that particular one in the first place.
    • There is no end point. If you're ticking boxes you'll invent more boxes to tick. Be happy with what you have at all times, not "when I fill that gap". There will always be gaps.

    For me it's a case of you should buy individual coins that you could happily lock away in paper envelopes and love them enough to want to go dig out that particular one again B)

    This is probably pretty rubbish advice if you're collecting any particular series or buying for research purposes, but I think "that'll come later" if time / finances / knowledge will allow. Keep it varied for now.

  7. I do like the Sheldon scale for grading in theory except arguably it puts too much emphasis on MS coins. No one seems too bothered about an XF45 or an AU 50 but there are tonnes of MS63s and the like that would only grade EF in the British system.

    It's because they value surface quality much more than wear and strike I think. So again it's subjective, that's what I mean about 'absolute' points of reference.

    There's a joke I remember hearing...

    Q: "What would you grade this coin?"

    A: "Am I buying or selling?"

  8. This thread pretty much sums up the uselessness of grading systems as some sort of absolute point of reference.

    Not a single definitive answer.

    aUNC = a coin with wear that the seller doesn't want to list as gEF because aUNC sounds better :D .

    • Like 1