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Peckris 2

Coin Hoarder
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Posts posted by Peckris 2


  1. On 9 November 2018 at 10:10 AM, blakeyboy said:

    How can you tell?

     

    LCA site running for me now, so I had a look, and it's a good fake, if it's fake....

    Exact Chinese copy, taken from a good coin which is why the fakes are all absolutely identical. The same problem occurs with some Northumberland shillings - the only way to tell a fake was side by side with another, but by now we should know what to look out for.


  2. 5 hours ago, jelida said:

    Hmm, I got mine mail order from the USA, wasn’t cheap but I don’t remember it being extortionate. You really only need a few drops for local treatment,  I will look around for a suitable container; or entrust me with the coin and I’ll see what I can do! 🧐.

    Jerry

    I will try a bottle from the USA then Jerry - thanks for the offer, but sending things by post is a real difficulty these days!


  3. 17 minutes ago, jelida said:

    Any chance of a photo, Peckris? For localised verdigris I have found Verdicare very useful, to the extent of full removal, but it does require time for the drop applied to the verd to soften it, and mechanical prodding eg cocktail stick to remove it, and may need repeat application over a few days. As stated before high magnification and a steady hand are appropriate. Next time I tackle one I will try and take photos.

    Jerry

    It's not very big, but here goes:

    1868-f56-3-rev.jpg.502134f99a3e0a2e811a99a0225777ce.jpg

    You can see it most on the teeth and rim next to the second N of PENNY.


  4. 11 minutes ago, PWA 1967 said:

    Behave your self 😊 You were a dealer for years you must of seen coins ruined by being cleaned ,especially the wrong way.

    Only a very very minor one, who had a postal list and a display cabinet in the local antiques centre. Yes, I've seen badly cleaned coins which is why I turned to olive oil and surgical spirit as I believed both were neutral. This thread has made me think again.


  5. 20 hours ago, jelida said:

    One would have to exclude oxygen during the soaking process or the oxidation of the oil will happen. Of course the acidic effect on the coin is what gently removes the patina and initially can make it appear nicer. The difficulty is removing the olive oil fully afterwards, impossible if a heavily patinated coin has had a prolonged soak. There are academic articles on this that I have read in the deep past but I can’t remember where. Perhaps in a conservation publication.

    Jerry

    Hmm. I was going to soak a high grade 1868 penny with a small bit of 'green', but now I'm wondering if there is an alternative to olive oil? I was going to use medicinal olive oil (BP) but I don't know if that makes a difference?


  6. 16 hours ago, VickySilver said:

    You know, IMO, that the 1919 H if superb and WELL STRUCK of good metal should be considered amongst the best of these branch mint coins of this era. They  are nearly always mushy, or of poor colour (possibly as a result of metal mix??) and seem to have problems of some sort. For some reason I have soaked up a few of these over the years and have rather nice 18 and 19 KNs with little sweat involved (and they were about equally priced).

    Yes, I agree. The 1919H is by far the commonest of the 1918 and 1919 H and KN pennies in lower grades, but it's even harder than 1918KN in top grade. My own is EF+ without lustre for circulation wear, but there is practically no hair detail as the die used must have worn considerably, and the hair is the highest point. It's possible the Mint supplied some obverse dies to Heatons in 1918 and few or none in 1919, so there was considerable re-use.


  7. 4 hours ago, jelida said:

    Thankfully very inert, at least as far as metals are concerned, I’d even use it in my cars! The copper alloy parts in my 60 year old Landrover carburettor remain pristine, if a little worn. Any worries of even long term coin damage are misplaced, and this applies to most of the easily available organic solvents, though as stated above I always use a precautionary 100% acetone wash as a final step. Olive oil, widely used apparently on coins, is far worse as it oxidises into an acidic compound which does have damage potential. And the waxes and oils that accumulate around the details of handled coins likewise are sources of the salts that initiate and maintain verdigris, letting those deposits remain is itself a long term risk, and the main reason for the development of verd for example on slabbed coins

    Very worrying. However, I guess there's no oxidation if the coin is kept fully submerged in the oil, then gently wiped free of all traces on removal? 

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