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Posts posted by Peckris 2
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On 9/20/2024 at 9:47 PM, Martinminerva said:All explained in this thread from a while ago:
https://www.predecimal.com/forum/topic/14238-1953-farthing/?tab=comments#comment-202806
In summary, it is the pointing of the F that is crucial: to tooth on common reverse B but to gap on this VIP unrecorded one.
Ah, right - thank you.
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1899 is *the* year for varying date widths - they occur from narrow to very wide
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On 9/18/2024 at 10:45 PM, PWA 1967 said:That’s not B reverse , it’s unrecorded.
How so? The I and T of FARTHING both point to a tooth where on Reverse A they point to a gap.
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It looks clearly like a B to me - if you look at the other three Rs on the obverse there is a clear gap between the left down stroke and the curve of the R
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That's 2+B but I'm sure you knew that!
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On 9/15/2024 at 7:35 AM, SilverAge3 said:I'm not very familiar with ½d, especially from this era, does this one look really off, or am i mistaken?
Yes, that's not genuine though it doesn't look like a modern fake - possibly what the Americans call an "evasion", i.e. counterfeited in the 18th century?
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10 hours ago, jelida said:It is the bottom of the leg of the 7, there is an illusion that the leg of the 7 comes down the left of the void of the 8, when in fact it comes down the right side and aligns perfectly.
Jerry
yes of course. I was seeing the left hand of the lower 8 loop as being the 7 downstroke, when as you say it's actually on the right.
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what's that protruding from the bottom of the 8? certainly not part of the 7.
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can't actually see anything wrong with it - from the pictures.
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yes, a very clear 1865/3 - nice one
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On 9/1/2024 at 10:49 PM, secret santa said:My article in September's Coin News provides a very timely warning about these coins !
On the other hand, £1 is a fair price for a reasonable repro.
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15 hours ago, Bruce said:Same here, Florin and Shilling are also with reflective field.
I think it's often a feature in Victorian silver?
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On 8/30/2024 at 8:35 PM, ozjohn said:I do find it difficult to to believe that a 100 year old high grade coin can remain untarnished when left undisturbed in a draw or similar for most of that time as the other silver items I have start to tarnish after 3 months of so unless wrapped in sulfur free tissue paper.
It's a good point. I have double florins and two JH crowns where the fields look highly reflective, but not polished, and the designs and legends aren’t (not cameo but definitely not very reflective like the fields). It does make you wonder how they have maintained that state.
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4 hours ago, ozjohn said:The Al foil and Sodium carbonate/Bicarbonate convert the toning, mainly silver sulfide, back to metallic silver .Whereas Goddards' probably etches the surface to remove the silver sulfide. Personally given the chemistry I prefer the Sodium carbonate/ Al foil method as despite the people who like toned coins the truth is toning is corrosion is damage to the surface of the coin whereas the the sodium carbonate / Al foil is returning the silver to the coin's surface.
From Goddards own site:
How Silver Dip Works:
1. Chemical Reaction:
As tarnished silver jewellery is immersed in a silver dip solution, a chemical reaction occurs. Thiourea or potassium thiocyanate in the solution reacts with the silver sulphide, which is broken down into one component, silver, and one component, sulphur.
2. Dissolving tarnish:
The silver sulphide dissolves into the solution as the chemical reaction proceeds, leaving behind a transparent, untarnished silver sheet. During this process, the tarnishing process is reversed, revealing the shiny silver surface underneath.
No mention of 'etching'?
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6 hours ago, SRSNUM said:Does your coin exhibit the closed 'H' in 'FARTHING' as well?
That's the one feature I don't take seriously - the farthing legends are so small, and the serifs so pronounced, that effects like you're seeing on the H are almost inevitable. The bifurcation on the other hand is a very definite effect of something happening on the die.
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7 hours ago, SRSNUM said:Thanks Peckris 2 for responding. It would seem that if your example exhibits the 'closed H' in 'FARTHING' then the dies are likely the same. In addition, my example contains a bifurcated inner circle above the 'I' in 'FARTHING' (see image below). Should this feature also appear on your example, it would appear the dies are identical, except that my example is in a somewhat later state. Of course this analysis may prove incorrect, and I may be obliged to go back to square one and start again...
The lower part of the bifurcated inner circle eventually terminates in the field.
I've just looked, and my example definitely has the bifurcation near the I so it's clearly the same die.
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On 8/25/2024 at 9:35 PM, SRSNUM said:Interesting. The date on yours is almost identical to mine. However, the non-wonky underlying '1' (yes clearly double punched on yours) is not - or barely - evident on mine, whereas the doubled 8 is, so is the 'twin tailed' 6, and the width of the numerals. It would seem to be the same reverse die.
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On 8/25/2024 at 11:41 AM, Coys55 said:What about the aluminium and baking soda method? Is that better or worse than Goddards? Or are they equally good/bad?
That's not 'dipping' in the commercial sense - I've not tried it myself but if it works then go for it.
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10 hours ago, Sword said:I would leave it myself. The coin has a bit of wear and you can't be certain if there is lustre underneath. I wouldn't think it's worth the risk of dipping.
If you did dip, I have a golden rule:
1. use Goddards, and a clean container
2. dip FOR ONLY 10 SECONDS
3. remove, rinse thoroughly, and dab dry with a clean towel
If that doesn't cure the problem, or at least only partly, don't be tempted to dip again.
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3 hours ago, Iannich48 said:If I found a Harry and Megan 50p I would just use it, even if it was worth more. Terrible people.
If even half of what's in Spare is true, then it's The Family - or rather the structure around them - that's terrible, not so much the Sussexes.
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At least the toning is even - could be a lot worse.
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I've seen this in my copy of Spink 1925 - it could simply be a printing error, as there isn't a listing for 1853 without a stop after the date.
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On 8/9/2024 at 5:19 PM, SilverAge3 said:Looks like a high tide example to me.
Can I respectfully differ - unless I'm mistaken that looks like a standard 1897, i.e. 'low tide'.
Phillips family sale of Ancient Greek coins (Noonans, 25th September)
in Ancient Coins
Posted
Did anyone here have a look at, or bid on, or even win!, any of the gorgeous Ancient Greek coins in this sale?
I placed a 'highest estimate' bid on a few of the more modestly priced items, hoping I might get one of them. But after the first few lots I knew I wouldn't - everything went for at the very least 5 times estimate, but more often 10 times, and in one or two cases even more ... one lot was estimated £2k - £3k, but went for £40,000!!